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toysandboats":1p6wfmal said:
Having finished my second house which was built from a set of plans called Park View from Hobbies (Hobby's is a separate company), most modern houses are built from MDF or sometimes ply. MDF is available in so many thicknesses, I bought sheets of 2mm, 4mm, 6mm, 9mm and 12mm and went from there. The real work tends to only start once the house "skeleton" is built, with painting, decorating and furniture making and "fitting out". A lot of real wood comes from the US and so is actually imperial rather than metric.

If you really want wood, then I have used all of the following:- Alwayshobbies, Hobby's, 4D model shop, Cornwall Model Boats, Bromley Craft Products & J & A Supplies. They all do mail order and some go to the shows around the country.

There are numerous shows, the biggest being Miniatura at the NEC twice a year and the Kensinsington Dolls Fair in London which is impressive.
There are also 2 or 3 monthly magazines , try W H Smiths.
As you may have guessed, this is an area that I have now migrated to and I'm very happy to talk about it and answer any questions.
As someone else suggested, it is yet another slippery slope, building your own "Dolls House" can easily cost well over £1000, but you do get some excellent little tools!

David

There is a lot of information there thank you very much.

Did you start right away with skeleton framework building or did you start off smaller with panels? I ask because none of the 5 plans in the book I mentioned are done with the skeleton framework, from what I have seen so far with the plans I have it takes a fair amount of very accurate routing to get all the sides and floors to fit. Finally with your floors do you make miniature floor boards or do you scribe them in? Sadly my plans do not give sizes of the width or length of the boards to make. The scale I will be using is 1/12 as the book I have says it is the most popular scale and the easiest to work with.

From what I have seen you are right about the real work starting once the exterior is done. I really would like to start off with a skeleton build but if I need to make one the other way first then I will have to go down that route. How long did it take you to finish each of the houses?

Many thanks
Gary
 
gog64":1ju09iko said:
This sounds quite a project, do a write up as you go (please), I'd love to see it. I've built exactly two dolls houses as I have two daughters! The first one was when I still lived in Murca, and came as a set of plans and all the timber included (right down to tiny individual shingles for the roof). It took me months! The second time was after I moved back to Blighty. No kits available, so I bought a book and sourced the materials. That took even longer, but worked out OK in the end. It's a labour of love and will drive you nuts.

I think it is going to be a project that will take me months rather than weeks to complete to a satisfactory level :shock:
 
toysandboats":1duc300x said:
Having finished my second house which was built from a set of plans called Park View from Hobbies


David

I have just had a look at that, 15 rooms, it looks great.
 
Call that a dolls house? :roll: =D> =D>

I made this for Barbie dolls (1/6th scale) The girl in the middle at the rear is 9 years old and standing flat footed..

small house.jpg


To be fair, it was made from 12 mm ply as it was always intended to be painted.
I wouldnt mind making another in real wood, but dont have a customer.
 

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I made a farm set for a grandchild. Corrugated cardboard makes excellent corrugated iron. To get it you tear a layer off that thick board large boxes are made with.
 
sunnybob":1rhqdqts said:
Call that a dolls house? :roll: =D> =D>

I made this for Barbie dolls (1/6th scale) The girl in the middle at the rear is 9 years old and standing flat footed..



To be fair, it was made from 12 mm ply as it was always intended to be painted.
I wouldnt mind making another in real wood, but dont have a customer.

It is on casters so surely that would make it a mobile home :D
 
So far Barbie hasn't asked me to make a tractor unit for it =D>
Maybe Ken is working on that?
It took two to lift it and if the new owner hadnt hand a toyota pick up truck he would have had to wheel it 10 miles to his house.
small front house.jpg
 

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Garno":1fge46mj said:
Deadeye":1fge46mj said:
Meant to add, do you want them planed and perhaps one resawn if thinner is the thing?

Yes please if it's not too much trouble.

Remember to let me know how much the postage is, if not I will throw a tenner in the Ashgate Hospice collection tin your behalf.

Planed, packed, posted - enjoy!
 
Deadeye":1pmshfes said:
Garno":1pmshfes said:
Deadeye":1pmshfes said:
Meant to add, do you want them planed and perhaps one resawn if thinner is the thing?

Yes please if it's not too much trouble.

Remember to let me know how much the postage is, if not I will throw a tenner in the Ashgate Hospice collection tin your behalf.

Planed, packed, posted - enjoy!

Thank you very much,
I will throw a tenner into the collection tin for Ashgate Hospice on your behalf.

Gary
 
Gary,
The house (as drawn on the original plans) is 800mm x 600mm - but then we added two extensions, a kitchen (300mm x 400mm) and what is called the Garden Room (400mm x 500mm). The total length is now 1500mm and the whole building is mounted on a piece of 18mm MDF which is 1700mm x 700mm. It takes two to lift it and something we hadn't considered was where it was going to live!
The first picture shows the dining room on the bottom floor of the house.
I actually built the whole house "dry" and then took it apart to rout the channels for the wiring, and then my wife started to do the decorating. Whilst I was making the house, she was busy making cupboards, beds and all sorts of other bits and pieces. We made as much as we could but certain things are beyond us. A high quality 3D printer would be useful for making baths and sinks but we stopped short of buying that.
The MDF walls have lugs on them which slot into the MDF floor and ceiling (or tenons fitting into mortices).
The bookcase and log burner are in place as they both have lights inside them.
The flooring that you see is bought in sheets with a sticky backing. You then stain and polish to get your desired finish.
The skirting board was bought eventually. I planned to make my own but was staggered at the total length needed. I also found that the Dremel router bits didn't give a very good finish.
You're right about routing, there is a lot to do though much of my cutting was done on my bandsaw.
img_2712a.jpg

The house is unusual in that it is two rooms deep - most are just a single room deep. It means that we you can access the house from the front & the rear and my wife has twice as many rooms to furnish. This picture shows the utility room which is behind the dining room.
img_2718a.jpg

Once the ground floor rooms were completed the ceiling / floor is routed out, glued in place and the wiring is brought up through and fed to the LIB controller.
img_2724a.jpg

I bought the LIB controller from a guy at the Miniatura show at the NEC. It has 20 channels, allowing something like 160 lights or sockets. I decided to use one channel per room / area and quickly realised that I needed a second LIB as there were too many cables running to one corner of the house. The net is that every lamp and socket in the house can be switched on or off independently and it is all done from a remote controller. In addition, any light can be made to flash or flicker - the fire and the two log burners have flickering red lights.
img_2725a.jpg

Here we've "completed" the structure of the house, with just the top floor to be decorated. Access to the two bedrooms on the top floor is via a large slice of roof that is removable.
img_2737a.jpg

When I said the structure was finished, there are still months of work ahead - the roof has over 7000 tiles which are stuck on individually. They are made of stiff card and spray painted (by another guy that we met at Miniatura). The flashing round the chimney is real lead.
img_2887a.jpg

Here is the finished article showing the kitchen extension on the left and a glimpse of the Garden Room on the right
img_2903a.jpg

The kitchen work has started! Later we added a full island unit with oak top.
Every drawer and door opens and there are even lights in the range cooker.
img_2839a.jpg

The final room was the Garden Room which started life as a Ski Chalet kit with two floors - a Christmas present back in 2018. It didn't look right until the floor was taken out and real oak beams and a wood burner were added.
img_2906a.jpg

The whole building from start to finish took the two of us a fairly intense 7 months, but like all houses, real and 1/12 scale, they are never really finished - there is always something more to be done!

The house as it is tonight
img_0214a.jpg


I hope this has given you some ideas and remember that, like most projects, it never goes quite to plan. It took 3 attempts to get the roof structure right for the removable part to slide in and out smoothly!
David
 

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That is astounding. I am full of admiration of both of you. Not only the skill but the dedication as well.
=D> =D> =D>
xy
 
toysandboats":2nuti33v said:
Gary,
The house (as drawn on the original plans) is 800mm x 600mm - but then we added two extensions, a kitchen (300mm x 400mm) and what is called the Garden Room (400mm x 500mm). The total length is now 1500mm and the whole building is mounted on a piece of 18mm MDF which is 1700mm x 700mm. It takes two to lift it and something we hadn't considered was where it was going to live!
The first picture shows the dining room on the bottom floor of the house.
I actually built the whole house "dry" and then took it apart to rout the channels for the wiring, and then my wife started to do the decorating. Whilst I was making the house, she was busy making cupboards, beds and all sorts of other bits and pieces. We made as much as we could but certain things are beyond us. A high quality 3D printer would be useful for making baths and sinks but we stopped short of buying that.
The MDF walls have lugs on them which slot into the MDF floor and ceiling (or tenons fitting into mortices).
The bookcase and log burner are in place as they both have lights inside them.
The flooring that you see is bought in sheets with a sticky backing. You then stain and polish to get your desired finish.
The skirting board was bought eventually. I planned to make my own but was staggered at the total length needed. I also found that the Dremel router bits didn't give a very good finish.
You're right about routing, there is a lot to do though much of my cutting was done on my bandsaw.

The house is unusual in that it is two rooms deep - most are just a single room deep. It means that we you can access the house from the front & the rear and my wife has twice as many rooms to furnish. This picture shows the utility room which is behind the dining room.

Once the ground floor rooms were completed the ceiling / floor is routed out, glued in place and the wiring is brought up through and fed to the LIB controller.

I bought the LIB controller from a guy at the Miniatura show at the NEC. It has 20 channels, allowing something like 160 lights or sockets. I decided to use one channel per room / area and quickly realised that I needed a second LIB as there were too many cables running to one corner of the house. The net is that every lamp and socket in the house can be switched on or off independently and it is all done from a remote controller. In addition, any light can be made to flash or flicker - the fire and the two log burners have flickering red lights.

Here we've "completed" the structure of the house, with just the top floor to be decorated. Access to the two bedrooms on the top floor is via a large slice of roof that is removable.

When I said the structure was finished, there are still months of work ahead - the roof has over 7000 tiles which are stuck on individually. They are made of stiff card and spray painted (by another guy that we met at Miniatura). The flashing round the chimney is real lead.

Here is the finished article showing the kitchen extension on the left and a glimpse of the Garden Room on the right

The kitchen work has started! Later we added a full island unit with oak top.
Every drawer and door opens and there are even lights in the range cooker.

The final room was the Garden Room which started life as a Ski Chalet kit with two floors - a Christmas present back in 2018. It didn't look right until the floor was taken out and real oak beams and a wood burner were added.

The whole building from start to finish took the two of us a fairly intense 7 months, but like all houses, real and 1/12 scale, they are never really finished - there is always something more to be done!

The house as it is tonight


I hope this has given you some ideas and remember that, like most projects, it never goes quite to plan. It took 3 attempts to get the roof structure right for the removable part to slide in and out smoothly!
David

David that is an awsome build and it sounds as though you and the Wife had a lot of fun doing it.

Mrs G is going to do the decorating and from what I have read and gleaned off the interweb it is better to do this before putting the wall in its place (internal walls that is.) You are right about routing channels into the wood as you go along for the electrics and it takes a lot of planning to get it right, the difficulty is trying to plan for those extras that will no doubt be added at a later date :) I plan on making all of the furniture myself whilst Mrs G will make the cushions, matresses and so forth.

I have so called plans from the book I have but I feel it is more of an instruction manual and does not show the rooms layouts and the such. so I will be drawing them in Autocad Architect, that way I will be able to see what goes where and see where the best place for the electric wires to go. Whilst building the my first (A victorian shop) I will be drawing plans for my next one, a 3 story victorian terrace, I want it to copy the original layouts as much as possible including the outside loo. If I get to start that this year I will be happy.

Thanks again for your detailed post it has given me a few ideas.

Gary.
 

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