Thickness planing by hand

[L2wis]

Looks like a good idea to me. Probably what he was taught.

 

[Jacob]

I found the Paul Sellers video quite interesting as well. What do you guys think about the can of oil and rag compared with wax.

I always use a bit of candle. Just a quick scribble does it and one candle lasts for years.

I watched the whole thing. He's spot on, couldn't fault it. Realistic, not one of those semi conjuring trick demos as done by various well known woodwork gurus!

 

[AndyT]

I'm sure it works and have seen it recommended elsewhere (eg by Robert Wearing) but I have never got round to finding a suitable tin and bit of felt. However I do keep a candle handy and scribble on the sole of the plane with it from time to time; it makes a huge difference. So I would say make sure that you do one or the other, whichever you like.

 

[rileytoolworks]

I found the Paul Sellers video quite interesting as well. What do you guys think about the can of oil and rag compared with wax.

It's what I do.
I have an old tupperware stuffed with rolled up felt, and top it up with baby oil when necessary.
The planes glide beautifully along.
Same thing as rubbing a candle on the sole, really, but I prefer the oil. (And it smells bloody gorgeous!)
I also use a baby oil/wax combo for some tool finishes. Heated in an old slow cooker, I can drop a handle/tool into it to penetrate the timber deeper, like soaking a wooden plane in oil.
Adam.

 

[GazPal]

I tend to use the same method at the bench (Old duraglit tin stuffed with wadding impregnated with 3in1), but - following an accidental spill on site - tend toward using candle wax when working on site. Both methods work well, but I definitely prefer using oil.

 

[Paul Crowe]

+1 for the essential woodworker. Just got my copy and its fab.

David Charlesworth also has a series of DVDs that cover planes and planing techniques that a worth a look.

 

[morfa]

In the Essential Woodworker, Wearing advises using a piece of carpet soaked in oil attached to a piece of wood. I think any of the methods will work, either wax or oil. Depends what you were taught or prefer.

 

[David C]

Thanks Paul.

I watched the Sellers video but felt that it lacked sufficient detail. There are several things that he does automatically, which are not explained.

The most obvious example is getting the length straight. His practiced eye may be sufficient but the novices will not be. Most mortals will need a straight edge. The concept of deliberately hollowing a surface and the use of stop shavings are not covered.

No mention is made of a set of shavings or a method for ensuring that the width does not develop a bump.

Winding sticks are used, without the necessary warning, that they are useless if positioned on a bump.

David Charlesworth

 

[bugbear]

There are several things that he does automatically, which are not explained.

Classic problem with a teacher who is personally very skilled.

"look how easy this is" (for me).

I think Paul Sellers techniques are good and original. :lol: :lol: :lol:

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

....

I think Paul Sellers techniques are good and original.

BugBear

Good yes. Not original though. Utterly conventional. That is his strength i.e. firmly based in the tradition, not a born-again woodworker with new fangled ideas.

 

[Jacob]

....
The most obvious example is getting the length straight. His practiced eye may be sufficient but the novices will not be. Most mortals will need a straight edge.

Hmm don't agree. Getting your eye in is a first essential IMHO. Straight edges best avoided except short (combi) rulers as below

The concept of deliberately hollowing a surface and the use of stop shavings are not covered.

He does - he shows how he's pressing on the back of the plane so the front is off the work as it goes over the straight bit.

No mention is made of a set of shavings or a method for ensuring that the width does not develop a bump.

Winding sticks are used, without the necessary warning, that they are useless if positioned on a bump.

David Charlesworth

Yes he could show putting a straight edge over the width. Classically a steel combi ruler which conveniently leaves a mark on the high spots if you rub it about a bit.

 

[bugbear]

....

I think Paul Sellers techniques are good and original.

BugBear

Good yes. Not original though. Utterly conventional. That is his strength i.e. firmly based in the tradition, not a born-again woodworker with new fangled ideas.

You might want to google "good and original"

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

....

I think Paul Sellers techniques are good and original.

BugBear

Good yes. Not original though. Utterly conventional. That is his strength i.e. firmly based in the tradition, not a born-again woodworker with new fangled ideas.

You might want to google "good and original"

BugBear

Fair comment. He isn't original and what's good is traditional -also not original.

 

[Paul Chapman]

....
The most obvious example is getting the length straight. His practiced eye may be sufficient but the novices will not be. Most mortals will need a straight edge.

Hmm don't agree. Getting your eye in is a first essential IMHO. Straight edges best avoided except short (combi) rulers as below

In his comentary, Paul Sellers implies that a flat sole on the plane will ensure that the piece is flat in its length. It won't. Knowing how to plane straight and flat in the length is an essential skill to develop and it requires more than simply applying pressure to the front of the plane at the start of the stroke and to the rear at the end of the stroke. His failure to explain and demonstrate this was a serious omission.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Jacob]

....
The most obvious example is getting the length straight. His practiced eye may be sufficient but the novices will not be. Most mortals will need a straight edge.

Hmm don't agree. Getting your eye in is a first essential IMHO. Straight edges best avoided except short (combi) rulers as below

In his comentary, Paul Sellers implies that a flat sole on the plane will ensure that the piece is flat in its length. It won't.

He implies that a flat sole helps but he also recommends eyeballing at intervals. It's up to the planer, not the plane to "ensure that the piece is flat in its length"

Knowing how to plane straight and flat in the length is an essential skill to develop and it requires more than simply applying pressure to the front of the plane at the start of the stroke and to the rear at the end of the stroke. His failure to explain and demonstrate this was a serious omission.

You have to give general pointers and then hope that practice will perfect. Too much detail can be counterproductive - a lot of stuff is trotted out which beginners take as gospel. Think of all those bevels! :roll:
This is about craft skill, it's not about following minutely detailed instructions. No serious omissions IMHO. In fact very clear and simple.

 

[bugbear]

Thanks Paul.

I watched the Sellers video but felt that it lacked sufficient detail. There are several things that he does automatically, which are not explained.

The most obvious example is getting the length straight. His practiced eye may be sufficient but the novices will not be. Most mortals will need a straight edge. The concept of deliberately hollowing a surface and the use of stop shavings are not covered.

No mention is made of a set of shavings or a method for ensuring that the width does not develop a bump.

Winding sticks are used, without the necessary warning, that they are useless if positioned on a bump.

David Charlesworth

Having viewed it again, it's "OK" if you consider it as a overview demonstration, not a tutorial. The sort of thing a teacher might do at the start of a day course.

A "here's what I'm going to teach you" sort of thing, and opposed to the actual teaching itself.

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

....

I think Paul Sellers techniques are good and original.

BugBear

Good yes. Not original though. Utterly conventional. That is his strength i.e. firmly based in the tradition, not a born-again woodworker with new fangled ideas.

You might want to google "good and original"

BugBear

You might want to google "tradition sets you free" 8)

 

[bugbear]

You might want to google "tradition sets you free" 8)

Fair enough. (googly...)

Only 20 hits on the whole 'net?

Unless you're reading a woodwork meaning into the work of a poet/blogger called "Venus Cow" you're going to have to make your meaning a little clearer and more explicit.

Which is rather the subject at hand.

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

You might want to google "tradition sets you free" 8)

Fair enough. (googly...)

Only 20 hits on the whole 'net?

Unless you're reading a woodwork meaning into the work of a poet/blogger called "Venus Cow" you're going to have to make your meaning a little clearer and more explicit.

Which is rather the subject at hand.

BugBear

It was a line from "The Pitmen Painters". It'll turn up on google sooner or later. Sooner, now that it's been quoted here. Not sure of the meaning but I know it's there!
Come to think the meaning is obvious - if you do anything in the traditional way your only objective is to do it well and you are free from other considerations.

 

[Paul Chapman]

You have to give general pointers and then hope that practice will perfect.

I am not sure that "eyeballing at intervals" is a sufficiently good pointer. There is a standard way to plane a piece of wood straight and flat in its length that has been taught for years. Far better to explain and demonstrate that so the beginner knows what it is he needs to practice than to give a vague and misleading pointer.

Cheers :wink:

Paul