The Wheel Marking Gauge Rant.

[shed9]

Clever solution to a non existent problem. You get a lot of that in woodwork!

You get a lot of that in everything but it also usually doesn't detract from the end result either way.

 

[Andy Kev.]

In school woodwork lessons, when marking a mortice, we were taught to define the start and finish of the cut by sighting the position of the marking gauge pins at each end of the pencilled rectangle and pressing down, all with the fence tight against the work, to make small but definite holes. Then mark the lines, with the pins falling neatly into the holes made at either end. Easier to demonstrate than describe, but the result was a nice clear marking with a definite start and finish, rather than a vague run-in and run-out.

It's not vital for all mortices, but avoids stray lines showing on the insides of stiles beyond the intersecting rails.

Is there an equivalent technique with a wheel gauge? Or must you remove the over-run with a smoothing plane?

I've found that the following works quite well: square in the start and end of the mortice, then press the relevant chisel onto one of the lines in the desired position i.e. distance you want from the face. Then do one light line with the wheel gauge from the near point of the chisel mark across to the other squared line. You now press the chisel with near corner on that intersection on the other squared line. From this point you can merrily mark up both lines because you're just linking up the corners of the chisel marks.

Does that make sense? It's also a lot easier to demonstrate than describe!

 

[ED65]

Clever solution to a non existent problem. You get a lot of that in woodwork!

Oi vey, that "non-existent problem" you refer to is something that hundreds struggle with.

I'll make so bold as to defy anyone here, including you, to claim that they've never had a marking gauge wander on them. The simple fact is that sometimes wood is cooperative and sometimes it ain't and this mod most certainly helps in the latter case.

I do agree with your wider point that there are many 'solutions' to things that weren't a problem in the first place, but this is not one of them. This tweak was created by working types to tackle an identified (and common) issue, not by some designer sitting at a table with a pencil looking to justify his paycheck.

To do my part to help you from falling back into your well-worn rut that's all I'm going to say about that.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

It's quite easy to shape a home-made pin (or small knife) as ED65 suggests in a wooden gauge, if anybody wants to try the angled marker approach (or any other cunning variation on marker shaping); it's equally easy to file it straight-in-line again if the method doesn't appeal. With a cutting gauge, a couple of careful paring cuts with a narrow chisel in the stem mortice does the same thing - and can equally easily be undone again. You can't do that with a wheel gauge, though - you're stuck with what the manufacturer gave you.

 

[Jacob]

Clever solution to a non existent problem. You get a lot of that in woodwork!

Oi vey, that "non-existent problem" you refer to is something that hundreds struggle with.

I'll make so bold as to defy anyone here, including you, to claim that they've never had a marking gauge wander on them. The simple fact is that sometimes wood is cooperative and sometimes it ain't and this mod most certainly helps in the latter case.........

Yes they can wander but with practice you get the feel and correct without giving it any thought - basically back off and repeat the pass with a lighter touch so it'll float over the surface instead of dropping into a rut. Helps if the pin is well extended so it trails over the surface. Helps if you push away rather than pull towards.
Your modification sounds logical but I can't say I've ever felt the need to use it and I don't suppose it's fool proof either.