The right way to use a sliding mitre saw ?

[Grahamshed]

I brought my first ever SMS at the DM show the other day, just waiting for it to arrive.
Every video I have seen of these show the operator pulling the blade out and cutting on the return push.
At the show I was speaking to a member of the design team for the Bosch axial glide SMS and he was saying that although everyone does it that way all SMSs should be used so that the cut is made by plunging and pulling the blade towards you for longer cuts.
So how do you use yours and why ?

 

[wizard]

Try pulling it towards you and see what happens if you are brave enough

 

[wizard]

And watch out for kickbacks it was the wood not the blade that caught my finger.

 

[GK1]

Everyone? I don't. Well, sometimes. The direction of blade rotation means that there's a tendency for it to want to climb through the wood, once you're aware of this you realise that pulling the saw towards you isn't so much a pull as firm control which is sometimes resisting the cut from going too fast and jamming up.

The times when I would draw out and push through would be if it was a cut that I knew would be hard work for the saw, difficult grain, hardwood, a deep section. Mostly I use a mitre saw by pulling through.

 

[Alex H]

My saw, an Axminster 'White' has a laser to show where the saw is going to cut.

It would be a bit of a waste of space if I pulled the saw to cut, No?

 

[nathandavies]

1) You would hope that the bosch representative would know what they are talking about.

2) The blade direction would say that you should be cutting away from you so it's not dragged

3) On my SMS I've always brought the saw out plunged and pushed back with fine results

4) On a RAS I've always cut towards myself.

2 vs 2

If you are going to cut towards yourself, make sure you hold on tight. I'll be sticking to the way I've always done it, and always seen people do it.

Nathan

 

[wizard]

“bosch representative would know what they are talking about”
You are having a laugh thick as two short planks
There tools are going downhill as well

 

[Graham Orm]

Nope I've NEVER cut towards myself in years of using them.

Tip: Even though the saw feels like it's coping, don't force it through the wood, push it gently if you want it to last.

 

[Grahamshed]

It is interesting that all the answers have been concerning safety.... and it has to be said that I would feel a lot safer pushing the saw away from myself.... His concern was that with the saw at full extension ( arms or axial glide ) there has to be some small degree of flex coming into the equation therefore pulling the cut would be more accurate.

 

[Graham Orm]

It is interesting that all the answers have been concerning safety.... and it has to be said that I would feel a lot safer pushing the saw away from myself.... His concern was that with the saw at full extension ( arms or axial glide ) there has to be some small degree of flex coming into the equation therefore pulling the cut would be more accurate.

Rubbish. :roll: Sounds to me like he's never used one!

 

[Grahamshed]

That would make two of us.

 

[powertools]

My saw, an Axminster 'White' has a laser to show where the saw is going to cut.

It would be a bit of a waste of space if I pulled the saw to cut, No?

The laser is there to position the wood before you start the cut and serves no purpose once you are cutting.

I think the correct way is to plunge the saw into the wood and then cut towards you this way the wood is forced against the fence and down onto the table.

 

[SteveF]

i am sure my saw pushes the wood towards fence if i pull out extension and cut away from me

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I'm afraid he's talking out of an orifice of his body not normally associated with verbal communication! For best results. Make the first cut with a very light "scoring" plunge to tickle through the grain (this helps prevent breakout) and then move in successive passes away from you (or just the one if the stock is sufficiently thin). Very few people actually clamp the work, they hold it firmly both against the fence and down on the bed (usually with left hand but not always).

Let the saw do the work...don't force it. No idea what he's on about and I agree with another poster...sounds like he's never used one on a real job.

 

[powertools]

i am sure my saw pushes the wood towards fence if i pull out extension and cut away from me

It will push it towards the fence but will tend to lift it from the table.

 

[Green]

Push. Don't listen to salesmen.

if-you-want-to-see-why-scrit-is-doing-it-to-us-t15631.html

Damn link is dead.

 

[mailee]

Every SCMS or RAS have a negative or zero rake blade in them so that the material is held tight against the fence and not lifted off the bed of the machine. A SCMS should be lowered on extension and pushed towards the fence and a RAS is drawn through the work towards you. This is the safest and most accurate way to use them. When you use a circular saw you push it through the work against the rotation of the blade never pulling it with the rotation of the blade, it is the same with the SCMS. That salesman hasn't got a clue! :roll:

 

[Grahamshed]

It has to be said that even the Bosch videos show it being pushed not pulled. Confusing though.

 

[Mar_mite]

Every SCMS or RAS have a negative or zero rake blade in them so that the material is held tight against the fence and not lifted off the bed of the machine. A SCMS should be lowered on extension and pushed towards the fence and a RAS is drawn through the work towards you. This is the safest and most accurate way to use them. When you use a circular saw you push it through the work against the rotation of the blade never pulling it with the rotation of the blade, it is the same with the SCMS. That salesman hasn't got a clue! :roll:

Exactly, you wouldn't push timber the wrong way through a table saw.

 

[blackrodd]

A very dangerous piece of equipment! As they all are! I was always taught to use the "travelling head crosscut saw", pulling by the left hand, but the right hand was on the motor ready to control any "snatch" in which case the saw was meant to pass on my left, and not damage the user.
By cutting on the "return" (away) from you, the timber being cut has the tendancy to lift the work piece. Looking at the saw action the return cut is UPWARDS, in the same way as taking off the riving knife and pushing the saw bench through the work piece, on an ordinary circular saw. Always use pulling towards the user and NOT Away from the user. 2 hands always! Clamp any larger or denser timbers. Another overlooked item is the blade. ENSURE it is a CROSSCUTTING blade! regards Rodders