The Fruits of Ebay.

[G S Haydon]

Badger planes to the best of my knowledge (book evidence only, not tried it myself yet) used on big rebates too. A groove is first made to the widest point of the rebate and to its full depth thus creating a rebate upstand. The bulk of the rebate is then removed by chiseling and finishing up with the badger.

if you've grooved out the rebate wall to full depth, and take the precaution of using a wide enough cutter (say 3/8") you can remove the rest of the waste with a normal jack plane.

BugBear

Good point well made BB. Had a quick look at Ellis to refresh myself as to where I had come up with my comment and because I prefer the sound of your method. I also wanted to curtail and spuriosity (yes a new word);-)

Ellis"....used for finishing sinkings, rebates etc. Note that it is not to be used for making rebates, but for cleaning them off; it is both too cumbersome and too fine cutting for the first purpose, but it is a most useful tool for finishing rebates etc after machining......"

"....Wide rebates as the one shown in the door jamb below may take two or more grooves to break up the width of the core, and these are finished with the badger plane......

I guess the ability to get right up to the edge of a rebate is desirable. Having never done this I can't say. Although I can say the badger does indeed seem finely set. A recent ebay purchase demonstrates this. It needs a little bit of work but looks lovely. Deep rich brown, burt ochre mixed with linseed?

 

[Sheffield Tony]

.......
All woodworkers are (of course) right handed, at least as far as the toolmakers of old are concerned!

BugBear

Ambidextrous. Essential really, that's why there are so few left handed tools - nobody needs them except for rare occurrences of grain problems perhaps.

I must be an exception, being left handed, although to be fair it feels like these aren't even my hands some times. It's also probably why I like the ps videos, he's also left handed.

I may be wrong, but I think that in the days these tools were made, being left handed was not really an option, it was regarded as a fault you should be educated out of. Bowls turned on the pole lathe show, by where the grain is lifted, if they were turned left or right handed. IIRC there are almost no left handed ones.

 

[bugbear]

I may be wrong, but I think that in the days these tools were made, being left handed was not really an option, it was regarded as a fault you should be educated out of.

Spot on. Hence no left handed tools.

The good old days aren't what they're cracked up to be, some of the time.

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

.........Ambidextrous. Essential really, that's why there are so few left handed tools - nobody needs them except for rare occurrences of grain problems perhaps.

I must be an exception, being left handed, although to be fair it feels like these aren't even my hands some times. It's also probably why I like the ps videos, he's also left handed.

I may be wrong, but I think that in the days these tools were made, being left handed was not really an option, it was regarded as a fault you should be educated out of. Bowls turned on the pole lathe show, by where the grain is lifted, if they were turned left or right handed. IIRC there are almost no left handed ones.

What's the difference? I do a bit of turning and it's normal to swap hands every now and then, and turn from one side and then the other. It wouldn't show on the wood though?
Or do you mean a lathe turning the other way worked from the opposite side? That would show but handedness has nothing to do with it as far as I can see.
As for handed tools - all mine are symmetrical except for a few odd ones (such as Stanley 78) which shouldn't be a prob for a left hander.
The exceptions being two "Bismarck" style woodies which have a slightly right handed front handle. Slightly inconvenient for a left hander - but it's wood so no problem adapting it to suit in any way you want. And skew rebate planes which have to be worked from right to left, but as working a plane from left to right perfectly possible for a right hander (and often done), it shouldn't be a prob for a lefty.

 

[G S Haydon]

I guess the badger plane in question may be an issue for handed use as the blade is skewed

 

[bugbear]

I guess the badger plane in question may be an issue for handed use as the blade is skewed

Complex planes with fences are the main ones.

And I was quite wrong on using a jack after the plough plane to make a large rebate, at least where the surface will show.

The plough plane, if working across the grain, will likely leave a terrible surface at the bottom of the groove (especially if taking a thick enough shaving to get the job done in good time).

The badger (see the video) will get in the corner and clean this up nicely with the skew blade, the jack won't.

BugBear

 

[G S Haydon]

Nice response BB. To be fair I think when making window or door frame rebates the concept of a groove wide enough to allow the use of a standard bench plane after the bulk of the stock is remove was a sensible idea. To say you were wrong is a bit harsh, more horses for courses.

 

[AndyT]

When I was making my summerhouse doors (the ones with the scribed joints) I did some rough comparisons on how long it took me to make the glazing rebates. I was slowest using a plane to work the whole rebate. Roughing out with a chisel and tidying up with a rebate was a bit quicker. The quickest way was to plough two narrow grooves one from the face and the other from the edge.
This method also gave a stock of paint stirring sticks!

 

[G S Haydon]

Andy that seems to be what Ellis implies with a clean up using a fine badger should the rebate be seen.

 

[Jacob]

When I was making my summerhouse doors (the ones with the scribed joints) I did some rough comparisons on how long it took me to make the glazing rebates. I was slowest using a plane to work the whole rebate. Roughing out with a chisel and tidying up with a rebate was a bit quicker. The quickest way was to plough two narrow grooves one from the face and the other from the edge.
This method also gave a stock of paint stirring sticks!

Glazing rebates - skew rebate plane - fast as owt. Or straight rebate plane, there isn't much in it.

 

[richarnold]

When I was making my summerhouse doors (the ones with the scribed joints) I did some rough comparisons on how long it took me to make the glazing rebates. I was slowest using a plane to work the whole rebate. Roughing out with a chisel and tidying up with a rebate was a bit quicker. The quickest way was to plough two narrow grooves one from the face and the other from the edge.
This method also gave a stock of paint stirring sticks!

Hi Andy. for glazing rebates have you tried a sash fillister yet? Very fast and efficient, and also very accurate. The later "on the bench" varieties are easier to use. Have to say though with large rebates the double plough groove method is great for saving labour.

 

[G S Haydon]

[/quote] Have to say though with large rebates the double plough groove method is grate for saving labour.[/quote]

Should of made myself clearer, what you just said Richard.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

Bowls turned on the pole lathe show, by where the grain is lifted, if they were turned left or right handed. IIRC there are almost no left handed ones.

What's the difference? I do a bit of turning and it's normal to swap hands every now and then, and turn from one side and then the other. It wouldn't show on the wood though?
Or do you mean a lathe turning the other way worked from the opposite side? That would show but handedness has nothing to do with it as far as I can see.

A right hander, using traditional hook tools, will hollow the inside of a bowl from the right, i.e, the base of the bowl is to your left, what will be the rim to the right. It would feel terribly c**k handed to do it the other way. If you look at the inside of the bowl, with the grain running vertically, a rougher finish to the top left and bottom right (where the cut is against the grain), of the bowl indicates it was turned rigtht handed. And vice-versa.

 

[AndyT]

When I was making my summerhouse doors (the ones with the scribed joints) I did some rough comparisons on how long it took me to make the glazing rebates. I was slowest using a plane to work the whole rebate. Roughing out with a chisel and tidying up with a rebate was a bit quicker. The quickest way was to plough two narrow grooves one from the face and the other from the edge.
This method also gave a stock of paint stirring sticks!

Hi Andy. for glazing rebates have you tried a sash fillister yet? Very fast and efficient, and also very accurate. The later "on the bench" varieties are easier to use. Have to say though with large rebates the double plough groove method is great for saving labour.

Hi Richard

Not yet but I do mean to do so some time even though I have nowhere in my house to use any new windows. I'm sure that making sash windows by hand was closely linked to the development of the right tools and the only way to really understand how is to make some.