The equivalent of Mothballs for Woodworm....

[toolsntat]

Now wouldn't that be a nice reassuring thing to have

 

[bjm]

...but unnecessary. Most woodworm holes are from the insect boring out of the wood and it would have been growing there before the wood was processed. Not many insects can re-infest dry wood as it's too hard, unless it's too wet but that's another issue! (will have to look up the re-infesters as it's been a while!)

 

[Ttrees]

What other 'moths' are out there that eat clothes, other than Anobium Punctatum?
Sort the damp out if there is a problem, if you can't then mothballs it is and borax can be used also.
Since you've brought the particular point up, I've never heard of anyone mixing camphor and borax together though.
Any takers?

 

[bjm]

Here is a quick guide for UK wood boring insects RTC Woodworm Guide

 

[Trevanion]

Everyone always talks about how woodworm only ever eats timber that is damp but I've had absolutely bone dry timber stores get bits decimated by woodworm, they particularly like sycamore!

 

[bjm]

The damp only makes it more likely that the eggs will develop and bore into the wood. The larvae can be in the dry wood for years.

 

[toolsntat]

Many a beech moulding plane has suffered from worm well after the seasoning process has finished.
Would it be true to say that this is a "dry wood" attack?
Is there a moisture content at which seasoned timbers become susceptible?
Cheers Andy

 

[bjm]

Many a beech moulding plane has suffered from worm well after the seasoning process has finished.
Would it be true to say that this is a "dry wood" attack?
Is there a moisture content at which seasoned timbers become susceptible?
Cheers Andy

As far as I know, wood needs to be below ~15% to halt re-infestation (according to this site). You could expect that moisture level in wood in an unheated, unsealed garage (dry but rain protected). The problem with (european) beech is that the sapwood isn't that discernible from the heartwood so would not have been excluded during manufacture. That would render your plane susceptible, probably more than the moisture content?

 

[bjm]

Many a beech moulding plane has suffered from worm well after the seasoning process has finished.
Would it be true to say that this is a "dry wood" attack?
Is there a moisture content at which seasoned timbers become susceptible?
Cheers Andy

Have you experienced any active worm in your planes - where there is frass?

Also, a question for all the (vintage) plane-collectors; the few planes I have seen have all been beech - is that the predominant wood that was used?

 

[AndyT]

Have you experienced any active worm in your planes - where there is frass?

Also, a question for all the (vintage) plane-collectors; the few planes I have seen have all been beech - is that the predominant wood that was used?

In the UK, yes. Almost all planes were beech. Many had little bits of boxwood where wear was heaviest.

Other countries used different local timbers of similar or greater hardness. So, I believe, in the USA, many old planes are birch. Good quality French planes were cormier wood.
In Germany it was common to add a hornbeam sole. Etc.

 

[toolsntat]

Have you experienced any active worm in your planes - where there is frass?

Also, a question for all the (vintage) plane-collectors; the few planes I have seen have all been beech - is that the predominant wood that was used?

Yes, with frass and a followed by a swift microwave. Sometimes if it's a very common tool with a lot of holes/frass and not worth saving I chip em open and often you'll see a grub or so.
Yes English Beech was predominantly the first choice timber for planemaking.
Dare say the use of inferior cuts may have happened. In some cases the makers would mark "best beech" .
Cheers Andy

 

[lurker]

Where is Sunny Bob when you need him?

 

[bjm]

In the UK, yes. Almost all planes were beech. Many had little bits of boxwood where wear was heaviest.

I'm curious because we know beech is very prone to movement and yet it seems to have been the wood of choice for what would be considered a 'precision' (in the broad sense) instrument. Japan has copious quantities of beech but all their planes are made of oak which seems a better choice?

 

[bjm]

Yes, with frass and a followed by a swift microwave.

Next time it happens you can use the guides I posted and identify the frass - and the beetle?

 

[bjm]

I'm wondering if they were made as a (semi) disposable item?

 

[Droogs]

You gave me an idea there AndyT. Just checked the janka for them and " beech scores 1,300 and the most common variety of birch scores 1,260 " so as there is loads of birch up here and it's basically ignored, I will see if I can get a good bit and make some planes and stuff

 

[AndyT]

I think one factor that helped with the use of beech was that special attention was paid to conversion and seasoning. There's a detailed study of the stock inventories of Christopher Gabriel, who was one of the biggest and most successful plane makers in C18th London. He had thousands of billets of beechwood in his premises, enough for several years of production.

No surprise to find 200 year old planes still perfectly usable.

 

[Ttrees]

Iirc beech has one of the most even radial to tangential shrinkage ratios compared to other timbers. Sorry I cannot remember where I read this. Tom

 

[bjm]

I think one factor that helped with the use of beech was that special attention was paid to conversion and seasoning. There's a detailed study of the stock inventories of Christopher Gabriel, who was one of the biggest and most successful plane makers in C18th London. He had thousands of billets of beechwood in his premises, enough for several years of production.

No surprise to find 200 year old planes still perfectly usable.

That's interesting to know. Do you have any more information on their understanding of seasoning (which probably differs form ours?)

 

[bjm]

Iirc beech has one of the most even radial to tangential shrinkage ratios compared to other timbers. Sorry I cannot remember where I read this. Tom

No, it's the opposite - T/R for beech is over 2 - in a stable wood, the T/R ratio is nearer 1+