The depths of bowls

[Anonymous]

I've now worked on a few bowls and I'm slowly getting to grips with using the bowl gouge. Keeping the bevel in contact and using it for support has stopped almost all of my dig-ins. I'm still having trouble with the insides though. I don't understand how I can get to the depths of a bowl and keep any of the bevel in contact. How is this possible? I'm using a square ground gouge which I'm quite happy with at the moment. The bowls aren't large so the gouge quickly ends up horizontal and square to the bottom of the bowl.

Also what's the point of going from outside to the center of the bowl and leaving a cone, then doing the opposite? How does this help?

Finally nobody told me this turning lark was so obsessive. Every time I learn something new (every day at the moment) I have to go out and have a play.

Dave

 

[Russell]

The deeper into a bowl I go the shorter and steeper the bevel I use I also have gouges that have a deliberate double bevel to allow me to go round tighter curves a keeping the bevel in contact. I have 8 or 9 bowl gouges with different grinds on them it becomes difficult if you only have one because its not practical to change the grind all the time.

 

[Roger]

As Russell has said, it pays over time to build up a selection of Gouges with different bevel angles for just that problem Having said that, unless you're doing deep or tight curved sides, you should be able to cover most situations with careful close positioning of the Rest and firm handling of the Gouge itself.

Your other question - it's similar to the Pull and Push cuts on the outer curves of the piece. You get (or should get) a smoother finish due to the grain direction.

 

[Dean]

Hi Mate,

I've now worked on a few bowls and I'm slowly getting to grips with using the bowl gouge. Keeping the bevel in contact and using it for support has stopped almost all of my dig-ins. I'm still having trouble with the insides though. I don't understand how I can get to the depths of a bowl and keep any of the bevel in contact. How is this possible?

If you are working from the outside inwards start turning the gouge to the left as you approach the centre, this should stop the cone from forming :wink:
Also keep your tool rest as close to the job as possible, if you intend to start turning deeper bowls have a look at the Sorby range of tool rests that are desgned for deeper bowls.


Also what's the point of going from outside to the center of the bowl and leaving a cone, then doing the opposite? How does this help?

There is no set method or right and wrong, if you are happy and getting good results with your own method then go with it

Finally nobody told me this turning lark was so obsessive. Every time I learn something new (every day at the moment) I have to go out and have a play.
Yep!! same here mate, same here



Dave

ATB


Dean

 

[PowerTool]

I have 8 or 9 bowl gouges with different grinds on them

Hi Russell - any chance of some pictures,and description of useage for the different grinds ?

Andrew (who only has one bowl gouge,and now feels like he needs more.. )

 

[Bodrighy]

I use a deep bowl gouge to dig it all out and a multiheaded scraper to clean it up. I find that I can alter the angle of the heads to clean round the corners. I suspect that when I start doing more intricate interior shapes I'll have to invest in other tools but at the moment I dind these two suffice.

Pete

 

[TEP]

Hi Dave.

As has already been rightly said you can use different bevel angles to get into tight corners, I have a bowl gouge ground straight across with a bevel of over 80deg. (it still cuts).

The cone in the centre, you don't need a cone, but if you are turning a very thin wall bowl you would have to leave a goodly bit of timber in the centre around the spigot area to help support the work. You finish all the inside of the walls then remove the centre last.

 

[wood yew believe it !]

dave, first off, all the above is all totally true, if you have the tools!! but if you dont, and i dont! then try xperimenting with different tools as well, i sometimes use my parting tool to get in deep, i can hear the screams of horror from all the pro's from here! and often my scrapers come into play, most of the time its trial and error though untill you find the thing that works for you, i'm not a believer of you MUST use this tool for this and you MUST use this tool for that. having said that of course i do try and keep safety in mind with regard to the physics of what im doing, but as usual that old adage, practice, practice etc.......

good luck and keep at it...dave
p.s. you're on the slippery slope now, watch out! lol

 

[Russell]

I see if I can put some pictures together of the grinds I use. It wont be for a week or 2 though I am pretty busy at the moment I have some decorating to finish before easter so the workshop is out of bounds unless its paid work

 

[Paul.J]

I'm with wybi.
I use my one and only bowl gouge,then i use my scraper to get the rest out and finish,with the rest as close as poss. :?: :?:
Is this wrong :roll:
Paul.J.

 

[wood yew believe it !]

paul, how can it b wrong if your safe an it works ?

 

[Paul.J]

I know.
Perhaps it's just that i'm new to this and further on down the road i might myself have more bowl gouges etc with differing angles.
Just reading all these different ways of doing things puts a doubt in your mind if i am doing it the correct way.Is this why i still get the occasional dig in :?: :?:
Just using what i've got.
Paul.J.

 

[wood yew believe it !]

right with you there mate! i only have the one bowl gouge and have to make do, like you said, in the future, more cash, etc, poor old us eh? lol :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

Cheers for all the info. I do have several bowl gouges but haven't played with different grinds yet. I assumed I could get a bowl finished pretty much just with one bowl gouge. It's all too easy as a beginner to work your way through a pile of tools just because you don't know how to use them. I don't want to sit there using a scraper just because I get dig-ins with the gouges.

As I said before I'm getting better with the one bowl gouge so I think I'll stick with that until I feel a little more proficient.

Cheers,

Dave

 

[CHJ]

Paul, I don't think you need to worry about the lack of tools or which ones you use, as hobbyists we do not have to finish in the shortest possible time to meet a cost target, I only have two 'full size' bowl gouges with differing grind angle, (& acouple of small diameter versions) the more acute one allows me to access the bottom third of the side and bottom of a straight sided bowl more easily, and if all else fails I resort to one of various scrapers.

Scrapers may be frowned upon by those with more skill and choice of tools but it was not many years ago that a scraper was the norm. for inside work, and several well known brand tools still use scraper inserts.

The important thing is to enjoy what you are doing and use the tool that allows you to achieve a finish with safety. Time and experience will take care of the increase in skill and the realization of the need for differing tools to achieve a particular process a little easier.

I have found that the tool rest position and the rigidity of the same is as vitally important in preventing catches etc. as the tool in use.

 

[greybeard]

As a learner-turner I have also had 'challenges' in trying - and failing! - to use the 'right' tool, but I also remember watching a very smooth golf pro years ago.
He was demonstrating the importance of a seamless swing, no matter which club was in use. And he was v v smooth!
Some one from the watchful throng - with the 'right' clothes and the 'right' clubs asked for the 'right' iron to use for, say, 'a hole by that tree over there'.
The pro regarded him somewhat dourly as he dropped a row of balls in front of him, and then used every iron to hand to drop a ball within a couple of feet of the indicated tree (it wa about 65 yards away).
The moral I took away with me was that in the practised hand the actual tool used is fairly irrelevant! The result is all!

Undoubtedly the 'right' tool gives the most 'efficient' result.
But then I have three spindle gouges with identical grinds, and try as I might I cannot get the same 'flow' with the middle one as with the other two!
I sharpen with a jig, I check and re-check angles, but I just cannot get the middle one to feel right, or cut right! So I hardly use it - which is sad!

Funny old game, this woodturning lark!

 

[NickWelford]

I'm with wybi.
I use my one and only bowl gouge,then i use my scraper to get the rest out and finish,with the rest as close as poss. :?: :?:
Is this wrong :roll:
Paul.J.

Try shear scraping - the finish is much better than the standard type. You need to angle the face of the tool across the piece - I can lend you the Sorby video if you like - it does describe the use of their shear scraper, but the technique is similar.

 

[caretaker]

Sorry all but can someone explain what is a dig in, and a scraper please.
I have not started with a lathe yet but after all the help from you It will not be long.

 

[Paul.J]

NickWelford wrote
I can lend you the Sorby video if you like
Thanks for the offer Nick.I will pm you.
Paul.J.

 

[Paul.J]

Caretaker wrote
Sorry all but can someone explain what is a dig in, and a scraper please.
Reg.
A dig-in is when the tool you are using digs into the wood you are turning.
This can as i've found out be caused by incorrect tool use,splits or knots in the wood catching the tool. :roll:
A scraper is the flat tool with a rounded or flat edge you use to finish off the inside of a bowl,rounded or the outside flat,giving a smoother flatter finish,i wish.
If i'm wrong i'm sure someone with greater experience will correct me.
Paul.J.