The bench build WIP. First plane! Pg4.

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PAUL_TDI

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I'm planning on building an extra large bench for the new workshop to go along side my 5x2' old bench.

I'm most likely going to build a 6x2.5'. I'm planning on using old 3x3" fence posts for the legs, 4x2" for the bracing around the top for the top to screw onto, then I have various bits of 3x2 and 2x2 timber for additional bracing.

I'll be using either 7x2 or 8x3 for the work top, depending what I can get cheapest in best condition (reclaimed timber)

Main question I have is will I need 4 or 6 legs having a pair in the middle for extra support?

I'm a complete newbie when it comes to wood work, I'll be copying the joints on my old bench that my dad built to try and make it as neat as possible.

But basically all timber I'll be using is reclaimed, my old fence posts, a tamper beam from my concrete base, a pallet from a OSB sheet delivery and lots donated by my dads old work and also a full length of timber a neighbour dumped in my tree line..... thanks!

Any pics of corner joints for the legs or mid way joints for the extra supporting joints will be very helpful as would any tips on cutting them.

Thanks in advance.
 
I would get both of Chris Schwarz's workbench books from the library before embarking on any bench build. His ideas will inform and (probably) inspire you even if you don't copy any of the benches. Alternatively, a lot of the books are in essay form around the net, so it's worth googling him. Good luck.
 
I would recommend having a read of the Chris Schwarz book: Workbenches from Design and Theory to construction and use book.

You can create mortice and tenon joints for the legs by cutting and laminating the timbers to size without even having to cut the joints.
 
Thanks for all the links and info.

I think mortice and tenon joints are a little too involved for the basic wood working tools I have.

I was thinking more along the lines of a double lap joint on the legs.

Something like this...



Or will that be too much material cut away from the top of the leg?

PS. Excuse my spelling of wood on the picture, don't know what I was thinking!
 
Paul, again, look at the Schwarz books as there are benches on there which use simple joints or are bolted together. M and t can be accomplished fairly easily with a drill, saw and sharp chisel, all of which you should have or can get cheaply. Take your time in planning as there is no point building a bench which moves about - you might as well make a top for a workmate or trestles.

Another thing to think about is how you are going to plane and join the beams to make up the top.
 
Unfortunately I don't have a spare 30 quid to spend on books at the minute, but will keep an eye out for them.

I think I'd need to give M&T joints a practice go on some scrap timber before letting loose on my lovely fence posts. The only thing I'm missing from that list is a chisel, I only have 1 fairly wide one which certainly isn't sharp. So I may try and pick up a few cheapies tomorrow.

Youtube is a fantastic resource though and has already improved my basic paint drawing above by having the 2 top rails meet via a mitre joint. (purely gives me another reason to use my mitre saw I got for my birthday)

My workbench for the past few months has been a sheet of ply with a beam screwed to it gripped in my workmate.

I'll stick to the lap joints up top, but if I master M&T joints then I'll use these for the bottom rails.

Thanks all.
 
Paul, I totally understand about not having thirty quid, but I would put your foot on the ball and get them from the library or spend some time googling around bench-building before you start. A stitch in time and all that. Anyway, good luck with it.
 
Definitely, I have vague pictures in my head how I want it to look and how I'm going to do certain joints, trying to picture what wood I can use where.

Can't say I've been to a library in at least 10 years! I certainly do plenty more googling and youtubing though.

I'm fairly finicky with how things look so I want nice flush joints, none of these bolting/screwing chunks of timber together.

I'm out and about today so will try and get some chisels and clamps for not too much. As it stands I would of used ratchet straps to brace the top while I glued 'n' screwed it.
 
M&Ts for a bench can be achieved by using three pieces of wood glued together. Just leave a gap in the centre bit for the mortice.

So in a leg for a bench three 25mm x 75mm pieces of wood will get you a 75mm square leg with a 25mm through mortice in the middle. Just leave the rail long and pop a wedge in the end to hold it together.

Does that make sense?

Mick
 
PAUL_TDI":1wf9i285 said:
Definitely, I have vague pictures in my head how I want it to look and how I'm going to do certain joints, trying to picture what wood I can use where.

Can't say I've been to a library in at least 10 years! I certainly do plenty more googling and youtubing though.

I'm fairly finicky with how things look so I want nice flush joints, none of these bolting/screwing chunks of timber together.

I'm out and about today so will try and get some chisels and clamps for not too much. As it stands I would of used ratchet straps to brace the top while I glued 'n' screwed it.

Download sketchup and do your plans on that, its amazing how easy it is to use once you've watched a few videos on youtube. If you measure up what wood you have you can then incorporate that into your drawing and work out what cuts you need to make and where.
 
PAUL_TDI":gmbovw0w said:
Unfortunately I don't have a spare 30 quid to spend on books at the minute, but will keep an eye out for them.

hi paul
why not try and see if your local library can get hold of the books for you.
that way you can see them with no outlay.
cheers paul-c
 
MickCheese":3d7n296x said:
M&Ts for a bench can be achieved by using three pieces of wood glued together. Just leave a gap in the centre bit for the mortice.

So in a leg for a bench three 25mm x 75mm pieces of wood will get you a 75mm square leg with a 25mm through mortice in the middle. Just leave the rail long and pop a wedge in the end to hold it together.

Does that make sense?

Mick

Makes perfect sense thanks, I may be able to use this technique on the back as I can have a 5th leg back middle putting my shorter slimmer timber to use.

I may have to venture into the unknown and get to the library if answers I need can't be found via YouTube.

I didn't realize sketchup was free, so I'll certainly have a play on that. Thanks.

Unfortunately asking to buy tools on your anniversary is NOT a good idea......
 
Paul_tdi,

i refer you to this. An excellent bench from inexpensive material and scaled to any size.

Bob and Dave's Good, Fast and Cheap Bench at

http://www.picnicpark.org/keith/woodworking/workbench/BobAndDavesGoodFastAndCheapBench-ne.pdf

Bob Key's web site has disappeared now but the Wayback machine retrieves this. I have built one exactly like it and a dual front vice version about 2ft longer. It's softwood, non-flashy and very functional. Using reclaimed timber or new it works just as well.

Al
 
Thanks for the link, that certainly looks like a fairly basic sturdy build.

Thankfully my over bench already has a wood work vice fitted, I'm planning on getting an engineering vice for this one, My dad has a lovely vice which rotates and has a small anvil on the back which would be nice if I find that style cheap enough.

I have to ask (although I doubt I'll need them) what are the dog holes about? Now seeing them in that build I realize what the holes in my workmate are called.
 
Hi Paul. The workbench dog and it's holes are a work holding and clamping device. On the workmate they are a flexible and highly adjustable way to hold even irregular shaped objects. By using holes near the edges of the partially opened table and even skewing the jaws a touch on tightening , you can clamp down a surprising variety of shapes. On dedicated benches they are used in conjunction with a vice with either a tab or a dog hole of it's own to much the same purpose.
 

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