That didn't last long!

[mailee]

I installed a new 5/8" 6TPI blade in my bandsaw today and started deep ripping some 5" Oak boards. I had ripped 12x 24" lengths when it started to get hard work pushing it through. I checked the blade with a piece of 3/4" softwood and it was hardly cutting!! Looks like I have bu**ered the blade already?? I won't be buying any more of those from them.

 

[miles_hot]

who from?

 

[Chris Knight]

Did you check for nails..?

 

[Mcluma]

you could have overheated the blade, which makes it blund

 

[mr grimsdale]

You can't rip like that for long with ordinary BS blades. 3tpi hard tipped would be better but not that brill. I don't know about those very expensive blades which get mentioned but they might help - or a much bigger bandsaw.
5" boards I'd do over the TS with 2 passes. If the boards are deeper than 2 x my TS blade maximum cut then I'd do it the same over the top of the TS, and take the final cut of the middle bit with the bandsaw.

 

[WellsWood]

6tpi is way too many teeth for ripping 5" deep. The waste fills up the gullets too fast and as you've discovered it's a quick bye-bye to performance.
Fork out for an M42 3tpi from Ian at Tuffsaws and never look back :wink:

 

[Ironballs]

I have a Dakin Flathers M42 3tpi on my bandsaw, it's on there almost all the time and happily chews through whatever I throw at it - and it's had a lot of oak and maple to deal with

 

[motownmartin]

I have a Dakin Flathers M42 3tpi on my bandsaw, it's on there almost all the time and happily chews through whatever I throw at it - and it's had a lot of oak and maple to deal with

Are they expensive or reasonably priced?

 

[tekno.mage]

Those M42 blades are really great, especially for hard woods like oak. We were going through normal blades really quickly until I got an M42 from Tuffsaws - it's only just beginning to blunt now and has lasted over 10 times longer than the ordinary blades at just over 2.5 times the price.

tekno.mage

 

[mailee]

Guess you have made my mind up then guys, M42 blade it is. What would you recommend for deep ripping hardwood? It is some Oak floor boards that have had some ***** stuck to the back. (I am cutting them down to get rid of the *****)

 

[Chris Knight]

Just accelerate hard

 

[Ironballs]

I think my M42 is a 3tpi 3/4" and about 3.6m long and cost about 45 quid. So not cheap, but it's a big blade and a lot cheaper than the Axminster version - if they did one in my size. I emailed Dakin Flathers and asked for some local dealers as they don't deal direct, I went with Leuco in Cleckheaton

 

[motownmartin]

I think my M42 is a 3tpi 3/4" and about 3.6m long and cost about 45 quid. So not cheap, but it's a big blade and a lot cheaper than the Axminster version - if they did one in my size. I emailed Dakin Flathers and asked for some local dealers as they don't deal direct, I went with Leuco in Cleckheaton

Thanks

 

[Ironballs]

Earned its crust the other day as well as I was ripping down and old door to get my hands on the mahogany. Had done all the checks to spot any metal but didn't notice the rows of nails in the window rebate, blade ate the nails for breakfast and I only noticed when looking at the cut piece. Teeth are unmarked

 

[andy king]

Hi Mailee,

As mentioned by others, a coarser blade 3 skip or so would be much better.
I've not tried the M42 blades just yet, but I have tried the stellite tipped ones,and they leave a finish close to planed once the saw is set up properly and cut very quickly.
They are very expensive though, and i'm not sure if you can still get them in the UK all that easily.
At one time I think Axminster were considering, but maybe price prevented it.
As an aside, the double ripping on a tablesaw method is something I was taught was a dangerous practice when I was an apprentice, and I've had a scary moment when it was done in the flesh and the timber bound the blade.
I wouldn't recommend it unless you can ensure its held tightly to the saw bed when cutting and the kerf can be definitely held open as the cuts are made.

cheers,
Andy

 

[woodbloke]

I was ripping some 110mm English Oak the other weekend on my little Euro 260, turning it into some veneer for the current job in the 'shop. I was using a 5/8" Ax 3 skip blade special made from 14thou stock. The blade was fairly cream crackered after that little lot, but suitable for thinner run of t'mill stuff - Rob

 

[Steve Maskery]

Another vote for Ian's TuffCut blades here. I was resawing 6" iroko last week and it just ate through it. No pushing or steering, it just went. The only problem I had was that at 3/4" it was about at the limit of the tension capability of my machine, but that is hardly a fault of the blade. Fantastic.

S.

 

[iajon69]

Hi Mailee,

As mentioned by others, a coarser blade 3 skip or so would be much better.
I've not tried the M42 blades just yet, but I have tried the stellite tipped ones,and they leave a finish close to planed once the saw is set up properly and cut very quickly.
They are very expensive though, and i'm not sure if you can still get them in the UK all that easily.
At one time I think Axminster were considering, but maybe price prevented it.
cheers,
Andy

As already mentioned 3tpi would have been the best option in either M42 or carbon hard tooth - either would have made a big difference.

Stellite tipped blades are still available but are VERY expensive! They also need a lot more tension than M42 or carbon blades so are only really suitable for the bigger machines. The other disadvantage of stellite is that if you do happen to hit a nail, you will damage the blade. Stellite is very hard but also brittle. With M42, it will cut through the occasional nail with no damage to the blade at all.

I think my M42 is a 3tpi 3/4" and about 3.6m long and cost about 45 quid. So not cheap, but it's a big blade and a lot cheaper than the Axminster version - if they did one in my size. I emailed Dakin Flathers and asked for some local dealers as they don't deal direct, I went with Leuco in Cleckheaton

Thanks

Would have been £32.00 plus postage from me :wink:

Ian

 

[head clansman]

hi

I use the m42 from axminster which are really good still using the 3/4 blade and it's still going strong , after reading this thread I was wondering where do you guys go to get them resharpened , or do you get rid of. hc

 

[iajon69]

hi

I use the m42 from axminster which are really good still using the 3/4 blade and it's still going strong , after reading this thread I was wondering where do you guys go to get them resharpened , or do you get rid of. hc

They are not really designed to be re-sharpened - because of the way that the teeth are hardened, then any heat applied during sharpening softens the teeth and if they could be sharpened, then they need the teeth to be re-set as well.
Bandsaw blades are now pretty much a consumable item

Ian