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HI

thats a shame , we always use to sharpen and set ours back in the old dockyard, mind you the band saw was pre war and huge stood about eight ft tall. I think it was an old domino . hc
 
in the past i have sharpened the work one using an abrasive disc in an angle grinder and lightly touching each tooth while rotating the blade by hand - thats the method ann and bob phillips recomend.

IME it isnt a full sharpen but it helps the blade stay sharp longer - once its totally blunt though its off to the metal recycling.
 
iajon69":1lgfmrme said:
andy king":1lgfmrme said:
Hi Mailee,

As mentioned by others, a coarser blade 3 skip or so would be much better.
I've not tried the M42 blades just yet, but I have tried the stellite tipped ones,and they leave a finish close to planed once the saw is set up properly and cut very quickly.
They are very expensive though, and i'm not sure if you can still get them in the UK all that easily.
At one time I think Axminster were considering, but maybe price prevented it.
cheers,
Andy

As already mentioned 3tpi would have been the best option in either M42 or carbon hard tooth - either would have made a big difference.

Stellite tipped blades are still available but are VERY expensive! They also need a lot more tension than M42 or carbon blades so are only really suitable for the bigger machines. The other disadvantage of stellite is that if you do happen to hit a nail, you will damage the blade. Stellite is very hard but also brittle. With M42, it will cut through the occasional nail with no damage to the blade at all.

motownmartin":1lgfmrme said:
Ironballs":1lgfmrme said:
I think my M42 is a 3tpi 3/4" and about 3.6m long and cost about 45 quid. So not cheap, but it's a big blade and a lot cheaper than the Axminster version - if they did one in my size. I emailed Dakin Flathers and asked for some local dealers as they don't deal direct, I went with Leuco in Cleckheaton

Thanks :D

Would have been £32.00 plus postage from me :wink:

Ian

Ian- I've just been looking for a stellite blade for my new saw.
How much would a 17foot 1 1/2" blade cost?
 
Just a point to keep in mind; oak gets harder as it ages, when green(wet) it cuts so easily but when you get into stuff thats, say,200 years old reclaimed barn beams it takes more effort and more often sharpenings of handsaws, stellite tipped blades will also have a reduced life span.
 
big soft moose":31banq2c said:
in the past i have sharpened the work one using an abrasive disc in an angle grinder and lightly touching each tooth while rotating the blade by hand - thats the method ann and bob phillips recomend.

IME it isnt a full sharpen but it helps the blade stay sharp longer - once its totally blunt though its off to the metal recycling.

A dremel type tool is really good for a quick touch up as well - it does work to a certain degree and will give the blade a bit more life and can get you out of trouble if you are on your last blade.

Mattty - I will get some prices from the manufacturer and will be in touch soon

Ian
 
iajon69":1t3xi9cn said:
big soft moose":1t3xi9cn said:
in the past i have sharpened the work one using an abrasive disc in an angle grinder and lightly touching each tooth while rotating the blade by hand - thats the method ann and bob phillips recomend.

IME it isnt a full sharpen but it helps the blade stay sharp longer - once its totally blunt though its off to the metal recycling.

A dremel type tool is really good for a quick touch up as well - it does work to a certain degree and will give the blade a bit more life and can get you out of trouble if you are on your last blade.

Mattty - I will get some prices from the manufacturer and will be in touch soon

Ian
Please do, i'd like one asap.
Thanks.
 

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