bugbear
Established Member
ajbell":3dwb9208 said:I had seen the fence attachments but don't think I can use one on my
#5 stanley, but anything is possible with a bit of lateral thinking.
They're much less versatile (and less accurate) than using a mildy cambered edge as per 100 years of tradition and/or Charlesworth.
Also, I am not using winding sticks - so I will try this out.
Strongly recommened, and easy and cheap to make.
Getting a straight cut along the length of the edge seems OK it
is across the thickness which gives me problems.
If you're NOT dubbing the start, and (even more usual...) the end, you're doing well already.
Thickness is not a "given" when hand planing. The "reference" of the plane body is only 2", which is not enough guidance.
If the board is already parallel, you MUST take a series of parallel strokes across the width to maintain it parallel.
And, you MUST check that the surface you're planing is being maintained both straight and parallel.
Either use a straight edge, or the edge of the plane.
Another way to make the checking quick is to plane a chamfer all around the board down to the gauged line. This means that the thickness of the waste to be removed can now be seen from the top, which is helpful. (tip courtesy John Gunterman on OLDTOOLS IIRC)
With more experience, you can do more planing and less checking, since the consequences of you planing actions will become memorised.
As J Kingshott pointed out, there is no limit to the accuracy and amatuer can work to, since (s)he can check the work after every shaving.
A professional (earning a living) does not have the luxury of enough time to do that.
BugBear