Table saw / Router table WIP - Finished

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LarryS.

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Hi all,

Following on from my previous threads asking for advice I started building the table this weekend. So attached are some pics to show progress so far....

the starting point, a table saw with loads of bits jutting out which was just too big for the workshop, so I decided to build something with more flexibility so including a router table, storage, drawers and removable jigs / extensions

2141540867_8de50ffb9a.jpg


castors bought from axminster which should keep the unit mobile (very important in my small shop)
2207436562_56544a929c.jpg


the castors mounted on the base
2207438066_e2f36a1330.jpg


my first ever go with a router !! making a slot for the centre panel to fit into :
2206647965_38e06c40b7.jpg


made a couple of jigs to ensure everything stays in line:
2207439034_5ecbef3180.jpg


unit starts going together :
2206649449_3324c3a803.jpg

2207439670_00e46bf997.jpg


put in a couple of support cross members which the router table will sit on:
2206650457_6f41877603.jpg


the eagle has landed ! :
2206650695_5a317e6313.jpg


should be able to use the table rails over the router table section :
2206651001_94f835c695.jpg


router top not cut yet but you get the idea (its a kitchen counter offcut bought from local b&q yesterday for 6 quid) :
2206651767_75354422d4.jpg


left-over bits that I am going to replace with jigs which should take up a lot less space in the workshop:
2206652001_9b1a5fb8c2.jpg


whats going into the unit :
2206651497_b7e9e947c9.jpg


QUESTION : Where should I mount the router in the router section, in the middle, front left, back right ? My guess is back left so there is max space in front for wide stock and max space to the right for long stock ?
 
Very nice Paul, and quite ingenious, I'm watching this thread very carefully, if you can do it with your TS200 then so can I, it's just having the guts to do it, if I could do what your doing it would give me at least another 1.5 m square in the w/s, but that will soon get filled, hopefully, with a mini centre lathe, I wait with baited breath.
regards, Rich.
 
Hi

Nice job,

Where ever you put it will be wrong, so how about you make the top that holds the router removable. And set the router 2/3rds 1/3 off centre and that way you will be given more choice. And as you can get to all sides of your bench well the sky is the limit, you just after make sure the fence can be moved around.


Alan
 
Bespoke":2iu4ca91 said:
Hi

Nice job,

Where ever you put it will be wrong, so how about you make the top that holds the router removable. And set the router 2/3rds 1/3 off centre and that way you will be given more choice. And as you can get to all sides of your bench well the sky is the limit, you just after make sure the fence can be moved around.


Alan

fair point alan i might just do that, thanks again for the input

rich,

the planning took a while but actually doing the job hasn't been very difficult, if you want to do it then I'd say have a go, i can send you measurements and more pics if you want

paul
 
Paul

I think what you are doing is a good idea, it ceretainly saves space in the WS, it also gives you some added space to the right of the saw blades.

Regarding the setting of the router insert, I'd set it back as far as you can, beatring in mind the fence arrangement. Mine I think is set back about 16" (independent router table), and I've managed to put some fairly wide pieces through.
 
Waka":g6avevms said:
Paul

I think what you are doing is a good idea, it ceretainly saves space in the WS, it also gives you some added space to the right of the saw blades.

Regarding the setting of the router insert, I'd set it back as far as you can, beatring in mind the fence arrangement. Mine I think is set back about 16" (independent router table), and I've managed to put some fairly wide pieces through.

cheers waka, thanks for the advice
 
Paul,
Definitely a space saver for you.

Looking at the pix of your shop. I'd also offer the comment that you would find a bunch of drawers will save a lot of space. They are far more efficient than shelves for most things and keep the dust off stuff to boot.
 
waterhead37":2u8k40n3 said:
Paul,
Definitely a space saver for you.

Looking at the pix of your shop. I'd also offer the comment that you would find a bunch of drawers will save a lot of space. They are far more efficient than shelves for most things and keep the dust off stuff to boot.

Chris,

Exactly the same as I've been thinking :D , just going on screwfix to look for the hardware

paul
 
waterhead37":1kbucezw said:
Paul,
Definitely a space saver for you.

Looking at the pix of your shop. I'd also offer the comment that you would find a bunch of drawers will save a lot of space. They are far more efficient than shelves for most things and keep the dust off stuff to boot.

Whilst your on side issues, I would recommend that you plasterboard the ceiling as not only is the dust from the isulation bad but it will also hold any dust you create only to be released into your face when manoevering long stock.

The 1/3 and 2/3 idea sounds really good to me. Good luck with your projct.
 
Oryxdesign":m9uew0ma said:
waterhead37":m9uew0ma said:
Paul,
Definitely a space saver for you.

Looking at the pix of your shop. I'd also offer the comment that you would find a bunch of drawers will save a lot of space. They are far more efficient than shelves for most things and keep the dust off stuff to boot.

Whilst your on side issues, I would recommend that you plasterboard the ceiling as not only is the dust from the isulation bad but it will also hold any dust you create only to be released into your face when manoevering long stock.

The 1/3 and 2/3 idea sounds really good to me. Good luck with your projct.

cheers oryx, i'm planning to put plywood up there (one of the first jobs with my new set-up !) so that I can hang stuff from it
 
An update on progress tonight :

wanted to get rid of the mess of pipework :

2209955971_1121e82f34.jpg


so knocked up a bit of integration into the unit:
2210749738_847c4b3580.jpg

2210750160_4be3155e99.jpg

2209956939_e0f80264e8.jpg

Spot the flaw though !!! Went to cut a panel on top of the saw and realised the top pipe was too short !LOL!, will put the longer piece back on tomorrow

did a rough cut on the router top (will do a clean cut tomorrow) :
2210751038_05cbd99539.jpg


I've found that the cheap top is slightly cupped (about 2 mill in the middle) so am going to have to come up with some way to straighten it, live with the problem or buy another top - any suggestions ?

bonus of the day a new present turned up from e-bay :
2209957361_cac786630b.jpg


hopefully some more progress during the week
 
Paul,
You could flatten the top using the router with a sled accross the top, I remember a post somewhere on the forum on how to do this.
 
staffie":180yx4cq said:
Paul,
You could flatten the top using the router with a sled accross the top, I remember a post somewhere on the forum on how to do this.


Staffie,

The top is a cheap kitchen worksurface rather than solid wood, as such the laminated top is only about a mill thick (looks more expensive in the photo than in real life :D )

thanks anyway, paul
 
I'm not sure what to suggest with regards to keeping the router table top flat. How are you planning to fit it to the rest of the carcase? Perhaps... Adding three rails across the shortest distance on the underside and screwing up through the rails would work? I'm not sure, it looks quite thick.

I'm really impressed with how well this is coming along. It makes me think I could squeeze one of those Record saws in my garage-'shop somewhere but, I might have to settle for utilising my mitre saw in something similar.

Are you also planning add a hinged outfeed extension table to the back of the saw?

You might want to play around and find the best position for the extraction hose (crown guard). As it looks currently, it looks as if it might foul any timber or sheets going through.

With regards to positioning the router, look at a spindle moulder for a decent idea of how to off-centre it.
 
Olly,

OPJ":cxiw37ul said:
I'm not sure what to suggest with regards to keeping the router table top flat. How are you planning to fit it to the rest of the carcase? Perhaps... Adding three rails across the shortest distance on the underside and screwing up through the rails would work? I'm not sure, it looks quite thick.
I haven't had any flashes of inspiration either, may have to go for a double-thick MDF top and then try and find something to laminate it with (perhaps buy some of that fireback from B&Q that has been mentioned).

OPJ":cxiw37ul said:
I'm really impressed with how well this is coming along. It makes me think I could squeeze one of those Record saws in my garage-'shop somewhere but, I might have to settle for utilising my mitre saw in something similar.
The next project is to build a similar contraption for my mitre saw which is currently in the garage because its stand takes up so much space (I want everything I need in the one place). Happy to share ideas on this too if you want.


OPJ":cxiw37ul said:
Are you also planning add a hinged outfeed extension table to the back of the saw?
Yes the plan is to add extensions to both the back and left hand side (hinged and folding down) but haven't worked out the detail yet (the project is now into the 'make it up as I go' phase !

OPJ":cxiw37ul said:
You might want to play around and find the best position for the extraction hose (crown guard). As it looks currently, it looks as if it might foul any timber or sheets going through.
Yup, yet another area where I am waiting for divine inspiration

OPJ":cxiw37ul said:
With regards to positioning the router, look at a spindle moulder for a decent idea of how to off-centre it.
sounds like a good idea

cheers

paul
 
Looking foreward to the next installment as this is giving me a few ideas for my set up.

Thanks, Steve.
 
Not much progress on the project due to family house moves, work, golf and also a bit of my job !
Have decided to make the router table top first, install it then make the drawers using the router table. Attached are some pictures of its construction :

two layers of MDF chosen for the top
2223482773_a1d4b4ec0f.jpg


Piece of 'fireback' bought from Homebase for £30 to cover the top and bottom (its perfectly flat, shiny and hard-wearing so should be ideal, idea stolen from a previous poster on the forum) :
2224273824_db8da84b94.jpg


Warning ! First time I glued it on I copied another post on the forum who had used PVA (but not with fireback like I was using), left it like this for 2 days :

2223483071_3a229c7490.jpg

only to take all the stuff off and find that only a light touch peeled the covering off !! Went into emergency cheesed off mode and applied a lot of impact adhesive to both the fireback and the top of the MDF and stuck it all together, 24 hours later it seem stuck fast, learning point there.

Tonight for the first time I used a router with a laminate trimmer bit to trim the edge of the fireback (i'd left it over hanging) and here is the result :

2224274016_76993d7269.jpg


also took a present i'd received of a mini router table from Lidl, took the NVR switch from it and mounted to the table, should make turning the router off and on much easier and safer :
2223483825_6858c52363.jpg

here is how the project looks at the moment, please ignore all the cr*p within the unit :
2223484031_2607e36c6b.jpg


well chuffed with that. Next jobs are :
Mount the top permanently
Put router plate in it (intending to go for the tilgear aluminium one which I am going to order tomorrow)
Then mount a mitre slot and fence
then make the drawers
 
nice one Paul, i'm still looking and learning,
regards, Rich.
 
I always knew there was a use for those LIDL tools :D

Keep up the Good Work

Harry
 

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