Table Saw Blade?

[sploo]

I cut a lot of mdf, I use axi 64 tooth 8" blades. They leave a good finish on the edges and greatly reduce the time cleaning up saw marks. It just takes a quick rub with sandpaper. And they are cheap.

Very useful to know - thanks.

I've been trying to reduce my MDF "addiction" recently (I've been building loudspeaker cabinets for years but I'm a novice with "tree" wood). However I suspect I'll still be doing quite a bit so given the relatively low cost it's probably worth adding it to the arsenal.

 

[Tugalis]

We use a 48 tooth blade for the all of our cutting. This is mostly birch plywood, we cut a lot of 4mm which is hugely prone to tear out and it works great. Only causing a problem when it begins to get blunt. I wanted the 64 but they were out of stock when we bought the saw so have been making do but to be fair it's a spanking blade for the price!! I am going to buy another 48 and a 64 to see how they finish different.

Have you done any upgrades to your saw Just out of interest? I put some 18mm into the stock fence this week to lengthen it and it has made a world of difference to the cuts. I really didn't like how the fence finishes so short. I understand the issues with kick back but I think it can cause more problems with trying to make sure the work doesn't move at the end of the cut!

 

[sploo]

We use a 48 tooth blade for the all of our cutting. This is mostly birch plywood, we cut a lot of 4mm which is hugely prone to tear out and it works great. Only causing a problem when it begins to get blunt. I wanted the 64 but they were out of stock when we bought the saw so have been making do but to be fair it's a spanking blade for the price!! I am going to buy another 48 and a 64 to see how they finish different.

Have you done any upgrades to your saw Just out of interest? I put some 18mm into the stock fence this week to lengthen it and it has made a world of difference to the cuts. I really didn't like how the fence finishes so short. I understand the issues with kick back but I think it can cause more problems with trying to make sure the work doesn't move at the end of the cut!

At risk of veering the thread off topic, yes (or at least, I'm planning on various mods). I plan on making a zero clearance insert (ZCI) as that helps to reduce tearout, and it also reduces the chance of thin offcuts falling down the side of the blade.

I'm also looking at the Axminster Bandsaw Rip Fence upgrade, as that is a significant step up from the supplied fence. However, I'd be wary of making your fence full length for rip cuts. I share your concerns about work pieces moving, but I think that once you've got the cut started it should be OK (remember that as soon as the material has passed the front of the blade the cut is done). To prevent material moving I'd use a featherboard (just up to the front edge of the blade only).

I've also got some spare riving knives, as I'm planning on shortening one so I can do cuts over the top of the blade (thin dados, or tenon cuts).

In time I might build an overhead blade guard + dust collection, so then I could dispense with the one attached to the riving knife (as that prevents full depth cuts).

 

[blackrodd]

Sploo, the extractor fitted to the saw blade guard is always a nuisance,
But looking carefully that is the finest dust getting airborne from the air/blade movement, so a very necessary item for those having one and using particle board materials, in particular the green.
Not having one can be overcome by a safe, dangly pipe above and out of harms way that will remove the nasty stuff!
Be careful that you're wig, if you have one, is firmly nailed into place!
Regards Rodders

 

[Tugalis]

Yeh I haven't had time for the ZCI yet but I'm going to sort one out today. I had a small 2mm piece of plywood thrown at my face (always wear eyes and ears!!) Because a piece had been lost down the side of the blade.

I ended up taking the dust extraction off of the top as it kept getting in the way and put a wing nut on the guard so it's quick to remove when I out the sled on. Rodds, I think yourcompletely right about the fine stuff. I have resorted to wearing a mask when using the saw.

Completely agree with you on the fenCe and the kickback. 95% of what we cut down is Ply so that kind of removes the risk of the board releasing stresses whilst being cut from what I understand.

If you do find another supply of good quality 8" blades let me know as it never hurts to try something new!

 

[sploo]

Agreed - catching dust at source is always the best way, and I'd very much want a blade guard solution that was safe too. So for the moment, I'll definitely keep the standard one on.

In terms of airborne dust though; if I'm in the garage these days I'll almost always wear a Trend Airshield Pro. I cut so much MDF in my youth (with inadequate protection) that I've become quite sensitised to wood dust in general (and especially MDF). The Airshield, whilst bulky, is superb; as with the attached earmuffs it gives you ear, full face, and respiratory, protection, and I find I can work for hours with absolutely no irritation. Wish I'd bought one when I first started wood working, but you're always wise after the event I guess.