Table Saw Blade advice

[Sideways]

Superior industrial blades include Leitz, Swedex, OMAS and a few more.

For a good but middle quality blade, I'd point you towards CMT and their chrome range.

I know we are all telling you that separate rip and crosscut blades are best, but this general purpose 40T blade happened to come up in a search and the other descriptive stuff around the CMT chrome range is useful.

https://www.cmtorangetools.com/eu-e...85-industrial-saw-blades-for-ripping-crosscut

Scott & Sergeant are an established supplier focussed on the needs of trade users rather cheap DIY and they distribute CMT. Just browse their site. You could even ring and ask them to recommend a pair of blades.

 

[Hypnotic Chimera]

Superior industrial blades include Leitz, Swedex, OMAS and a few more.

For a good but middle quality blade, I'd point you towards CMT and their chrome range.

I know we are all telling you that separate rip and crosscut blades are best, but this general purpose 40T blade happened to come up in a search and the other descriptive stuff around the CMT chrome range is useful.

https://www.cmtorangetools.com/eu-e...85-industrial-saw-blades-for-ripping-crosscut

Scott & Sergeant are an established supplier focussed on the needs of trade users rather cheap DIY and they distribute CMT. Just browse their site. You could even ring and ask them to recommend a pair of blades.

Thank you Sideways - I very much like the idea of their "filled slots" for thermal expansion.

 

[Sideways]

I don't think I have any blades with filled slots but they might help in reducing the wind noise from the blade and I can't think of any downside to the feature.

 

[deema]

It is my understanding that filled slots have an advantage in a commercial environment where cleaning of the blade may not be a priority. Slots get full of resin and since not all get filled at the same rate it causes the blade to come out of balance that creates a wobble / vibration. Filling the slots prevents resin build up, so a good idea. However, for hobby / one man band operations just keeping the blade clean / not allowing a build up of resin achieves the same thing.

 

[pgrbff]

This is just my view, but Freud blades are just a waste of metal. I’ve tried most blades, the last Freud blade I bought went into the bin after just one cut. They are cheap for a reason.

That's odd because I have been using the same Freud blades for many years, I haven't had to replace them, and they work very well. Mainly rip blades. Maybe the quality has gone down in the last 20 years?

 

[pgrbff]

Hello,

I have Axminster 10" table saw, still with its original blade, which has now seen better days.
I need to replace the blade, but I want a good blade for the work I need to do. I don't mind paying a bit extra for something special.

As an example of my needs, I make hardwood boards out of 25mm thick American Black Walnut, Maple, Oak and other hard woods.
A typical board is 20" square but the planks are cut to 3" strips (ripped) then glue back together (alternative species) then cut again (crosscut) into 3" strips before being glued back together.
The end result is like a chess or drafts board (Although not for this).

I want a really good blade for cutting both directions of the board, but with a good enough finish for gluing back together.

So, my question is what would be the best blade for this? A general purpose blade? What make? What about teeth style (Rake & top etc)?

For me personally, I really don't want to be changing the blades each time, unless it really has a massive benefit.

I read the Swedex and CMT blades are good and a few other high end brands, but more specifically is what style of tooth and TPI would be best?

Thank you for any any replies or advice you can give.

Maybe my saw is set up incorrectly but I have never achieved a rip cut that can be glued up off the saw without planing first. I know they advertise rip blades that should achieve that but I doubt it is really possible.