Table leg modification. Removable?

[Lewys]

Hey, just looking for a bit of advice really. I have a table that has permanent legs built into the table design and it unfortunately makes it impossible to get into the room we want it in.

I want to know what would be the best way of modifying these legs so they are removable?

I'm not expert but would make an attempt if the solution isn't too elaborate…

Thanks

 

[JanetsBears]

For a simple solution, you could saw the legs off at a point where it would be less visible and use hefty dowel screws to re-attach. You'd need to make sure the pilot hole was central on both parts of each leg so they line up properly. Alternatively, you could use a number of dowels (or a big fat one) and glue the legs back on when inside the target room.

The second option would leave you with the same problem if you ever want to move it out again, and the table will get shorter by the thickness of your saw blade every time you move it!

Chris

 

[chill]

Have you tried laying the table on its side with 2 legs pointing at the doorway, pass them through the doorway whilst turning the table and moving it into the room, keep moving into the room and turning the table in the same direction and you should be able to get it in, this wont work if the height of the table is greater than the width of the room you are moving it from or into, but it would have to be a very tall table and /or a very narrow room for this not to work. best done with 2 people. HTH, if it doesn't then do as JanetsBears says and use a dowel screw,

 

[SteveF]

For a simple solution, you could saw the legs off at a point where it would be less visible and use hefty dowel screws to re-attach. You'd need to make sure the pilot hole was central on both parts of each leg so they line up properly. Alternatively, you could use a number of dowels (or a big fat one) and glue the legs back on when inside the target room.

The second option would leave you with the same problem if you ever want to move it out again, and the table will get shorter by the thickness of your saw blade every time you move it!

Chris

could you drill the hole from bottom of leg past the saw cut
the hole would not need to be perfect in line then...maybe even some studding

Steve

 

[JanetsBears]

For a simple solution, you could saw the legs off at a point where it would be less visible and use hefty dowel screws to re-attach. You'd need to make sure the pilot hole was central on both parts of each leg so they line up properly. Alternatively, you could use a number of dowels (or a big fat one) and glue the legs back on when inside the target room.

The second option would leave you with the same problem if you ever want to move it out again, and the table will get shorter by the thickness of your saw blade every time you move it!

Chris

could you drill the hole from bottom of leg past the saw cut
the hole would not need to be perfect in line then...maybe even some studding

Steve

It would still need to be inline unless you were very lucky and the point at which the two parts tightened against each other just happened to be when the grain was perfectly aligned along its original axis.

Of course, we're not seeing the whole table, so it could be that the bottom part of the legs is shaped in some way other than round. In that case, there may be a need to stick some sort of shim/spacer in the joint so it tightens 'square'.

Chris

 

[SteveF]

For a simple solution, you could saw the legs off at a point where it would be less visible and use hefty dowel screws to re-attach. You'd need to make sure the pilot hole was central on both parts of each leg so they line up properly. Alternatively, you could use a number of dowels (or a big fat one) and glue the legs back on when inside the target room.

The second option would leave you with the same problem if you ever want to move it out again, and the table will get shorter by the thickness of your saw blade every time you move it!

Chris

could you drill the hole from bottom of leg past the saw cut
the hole would not need to be perfect in line then...maybe even some studding

Steve

It would still need to be inline unless you were very lucky and the point at which the two parts tightened against each other just happened to be when the grain was perfectly aligned along its original axis.

Of course, we're not seeing the whole table, so it could be that the bottom part of the legs is shaped in some way other than round. In that case, there may be a need to stick some sort of shim/spacer in the joint so it tightens 'square'.

Chris

I see your point

i was thinking of relying on the weight of the table and just a studding passed through the 2 parts
maybe a dab of glue to stop it spinning and not actually bolt it back together

 

[Sgian Dubh]

It might be easier to do one of the following:

1. Take a pane of glass out of a window, or remove the whole window, get the table in, and make good the window afterwards.

2. Take a door and door frame out and make good afterwards, as above.

3. Replace the table with one that will fit through the door, or maybe an extending table that will fit. Sell the existing table.

All of the above might be easier if you have limited woodworking skills to make a really pukka job of fixing cut-off legs. On the other hand, if the table's a truly valuable antique, hacking off the legs would ruin the value, and knocking out a window or door is very likely to be a better option. If it's not valuable (it doesn't look it, but I could be wrong) unless perhaps of sentimental value (family heirloom for example), perhaps the replacement table(s) option would make most sense. Slainte.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

The table must be quite high? Most tables will go through a 30" doorway OK.

 

[Jacob]

Or lift off the roof? NB it looks like rubbish anyway - why not just buy another table? Burn it.

Or - what about taking off the table top, sawing through the rails/apron thing well away from any joints, joining them back together with "mending plates" as available from B&Q etc - basically bits of steel with countersunk screw holes in.

 

[Lewys]

Thank for the responses. The table's not so valuable that I wouldn't tamper with it, I don't mind having a go! Unfortunately it wouldn't pass through the doorway as an 'understair closet' is restricting manoeuvrability. Also the pvc windows are all silicone sealed (too much hassle).

Larger dowel screws sounds good, I'll try that. Won't be shrinking the table every time like you said.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

... the pvc windows are all silicone sealed (too much hassle).

If you have a window with a large pane of glass big enough to let the table through, you should be able to pop out the beading, remove the glass, get the table in, and put the glass back in place. It's something I've had to do every now and then, although large panes are heavy and you might need a bit of a squad to lift the glass. Slainte.