Sycamore, Wenge,Purpleheart Table finished pic's

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Imperial

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Started a new job a few weeks back and thought I'd post a few pics of the things I'm in the process of making. Not my designs just my work, will post further pics of them completed and of some other things I'm doing.

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This Sycamore Table has a soft close drawer still to be fitted in the space, no jokes about "Jake the Peg" please!

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The inlay is Wenge

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Wenge and Purpleheart picture frame, didn't make this

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Wenge and Sycamore inlay table top, glass will fill the frame and some triangle shaped mitred legs will be fitted to the corners which blend into the chamfer of the top which will be the same as the Sycamore table top, phew!
 
The six legs don't do it for me, although I do like the wenge stripes.

I guess the gaps in the mitred picture frame standing upright are because it's a dry fit?
 
a daft question :

how do you make those inlays ? i.e. how do you cut such long thing and very stratght edged strips ? and how to you cut the slot for them ?

would really like to do something similar
 
They are not gaps, but a chamfer!

Not too keen on the 6 legs either but it sells well?

Finish on the table is one coat, so far of Osmopoly satin.

There is a mixture of inlay and sandwiching strips. They are both made by ripping long lengths of material then thicknessing them to 4mm. The Sycamore table had a 50MM then 6MM strips ripped off its edge then all glued back together with the wenge strips inbetween, so the grain matches. Inlay grooves made with router then strips glued in.
 
so if i understand correctly :

plane and thickness a fairly thick board (say 1inch x 4)

then rip a strip off the side (say 7mm)

then run that strip through the thicknesser on its side (to reduce to 4mm and smooth off the ripped side) ?

see how that gives you a thick strip to go through the entire piece, but how do you reduce the 4mm x 1 inch strip to 4mm x 4mm ?

apologies for daft questions :D
 
Rip that strip to say 6mm using a sheet of scrap mdf to use as a zero clearance insert between the fence. IE run the sheet into the blade but leave it in place half cut and then run the strip though on top of it. You can make the strips much wider and then plane them flush after glueing in place. Does that make sense?
 
must have my thick head on tonight, but I don't understand, can you post some pics ??
 
Turn the 1" piece on its side and rip the 6mm from it, then put it through the thicknesser till it is 4mm x 4mm. I'd just glue the 6mm into the 4mm groove and plane it flush. No photos of what I'm explaning I'm afraid :oops: Does that help?
 
Bloonose,

I love the table.....

......almost! I can't see that the extra legs have helped the design in any way.......but the pair of inlaid Wenge strips is just excellent. So much more interesting because they run straight through the legs as well, and particularly because they aren't repeated at the back legs. They remind me of some spalted sycamore bedside tables I've seen somewhere...... :D

Thats a really bold chamfer to the underside of the top as well, and it looks great!

Just a pity about the Jake-the-peg stuff.....

Mike
 
I like the basic design and I do quite like the three-legs idea. Only thing I would say is that perhaps it would work better if the middle legs were a little more discreet - perhaps by reducing their thickness (keeping the widths the same when viewed from the ends)?

I really like the inlay work - was this inspired by Mike's bedside tables??? :wink:

Paul, you only need three planed sides on an inlay strip as you generally cut them so they will stick out proud by about 1mm once they're glued in place. This can then be scraped flush after. You'll need a false bed of MDF for your thicknesser if you want to thickness anything less than 6mm. :wink:
 
Mike Garnham":1a5mtzm4 said:
Just a pity about the Jake-the-peg stuff.....

Just a minor point of order, as I am something of an expert on this since my primary school days - the table has two extra legs, which we have never been accused of.
 
:D :D

Point of order taken.......however....

Jake the Peg had (allegedly) 3 legs instead of the more usual two. This table has 6 legs instead of the more usual 4, so a surplus of legs in exactly the same proportion as young Jake's.

Indeed, to help visualise this, imagine each end of the table as a Jake.

Admittedly, I didn't make this clear in my original post, and as I do enjoy a good bit of pedantry I apologise for the oversight!

At least trying to get a nappy on isn't going to be an issue....:D

Mike
 
Bloonose":2dou0l1t said:
Turn the 1" piece on its side and rip the 6mm from it, then put it through the thicknesser till it is 4mm x 4mm. I'd just glue the 6mm into the 4mm groove and plane it flush. No photos of what I'm explaning I'm afraid :oops: Does that help?

yes that makes sense :D , thanks for that

Olly,
on your note, is it possible to put a strip through a thicknesser that is only say 5mm x 5mm ? or would it be too unstable or the thicknesser unable to grip it
 
As I said in the 1st post, its not my design, just my work! There is another I've not started yet which has 4 legs along the front, with the drawer in the middle, plus the inlay through all front legs. They all sell better than the ones with 4 legs. Perhaps people think they are getting more for their money :roll: Wenge is proving difficult to rout using a template, the grain direction seems very important to how it comes out, but looks almost like ebony when in the small strips. Glad somebody said about the mdf base when thicknessing to 4mm, forgot to mention it!
 
LarryS":2a4mdj4c said:
Olly,
on your note, is it possible to put a strip through a thicknesser that is only say 5mm x 5mm ? or would it be too unstable or the thicknesser unable to grip it

If you're using a false bed then, I think the rollers would grab it no problem. The trouble with thicknessing something that small is that if the grain isn't dead-straight or your knives are blunt, it could end up in pieces!

If you wanted two lengths 5mmx5mm, I'd probably rip something from the edge of a PAR board that is 12mmx6mm, thickness it down to 12x5mm and then rip the length in half on the bandsaw. 12mm allows 2mm for the bandsaw kerf. Hope this makes sense. :wink:
 
I'm not keen on this particular design, but have seen 6 or 8 legged tables in a similar designs that I liked very much. Indeed, if that's what the customer wants then good luck to them. The workmanship is lovely, I really like the inlay.
 
The table is finished and in the showroom, will be making a 4 legged version with drawers at the ends rather than the front next. Drawer is a soft close Blum type and just pulls open.
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Very nice. I think the drawer base works really well with the inlay. :)

Showroom??? Is that just another name for your living room or are you being commissioned to make these pieces? :wink: :)
 

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