Sycamore box

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Pete - nice box...how about a smaller to fit inside and then another one to fit inside that? :lol: :lol: :lol: No need to reply, I know what the answer will be :wink: I've got a similar project lined up with some spalted sycamore that Chisel let me have at or Bash a while back...isn't time we had another one? :wink: :lol: - Rob
 
Yes Rob you know how I feel about mutiple boxes of diminishing size, been there I think :lol:
 
Lovely looking box Pete.

It is satisfying converting the raw material, seeing the colouring and figuring emerge and then going to a finished article, it's that whole process that gives me most satisfaction, well, apart from the finished article in my case :lol:

Paul, about that walnut tree :-k

Hmmm, mini bash ....... :wink:

All the best, Paul :D
 
Hi Pete,

Nice box :D

In my (limited) experience, sycamore can have a tendency to go a bit rubbish as spalting advances. Beech seems to retain a better structure at a greater degree of spalting figure. I suspect that this is why the most typically spalted wood is beech, and it is probably a harder and stiffer wood to start with anyway.

Ash can be vey nice before it really starts to turn, good colour in the wood with little loss of structural properties, whereas lime seems to look rather dull.

Martin, I'm not sure about apple, but some hawthorn I have had rotted away in the heart (not sure if this is perhaps why it was cut down rather than as a direct result of the spalting process). The sapwood was still pretty solid, but more nicely coloured than when fresh. I have also found much less tendency to split and warp with spalted wood during the drying process. Whether or not this would lead to reduced wastage in the overall process I doubt, becasue you would probably be more likely to lose some through the spalting being too advanced for the wood to be workable.

Cheers,

Dod
 
quick question, how to you cut the mitres on the sides ? tablesaw or shooting board or other method ?
 
Paul shooting board

2298318271_ae4d7930df.jpg
 
I do like newt's snazzy shooting board, better than my poor attempt. What are you setting up Newt Toolworks ? I'll be first in line :lol:
 
There is a detailed article in the August 2008 issue of Fine Woodworking (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Materials/MaterialsPDF.aspx?id=30747 for anyone with a FWW online subscription).

The article claims that air dried wood is better than kiln dried as there are already spores in the wood (kiln drying kills them). She put the planks into a plastic storage container with vermiculite to keep the boards damp and then ads some fungus that she has collected from other places to create the spores. Place the whole lot somewhere warm and dark and wait, checking it every 2weeks or so after 6 weeks to see what state it is in.[/url]
 
frugal":2wbfhud2 said:
There is a detailed article in the August 2008 issue of Fine Woodworking (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Materials/MaterialsPDF.aspx?id=30747 for anyone with a FWW online subscription).

The article claims that air dried wood is better than kiln dried as there are already spores in the wood (kiln drying kills them). She put the planks into a plastic storage container with vermiculite to keep the boards damp and then ads some fungus that she has collected from other places to create the spores. Place the whole lot somewhere warm and dark and wait, checking it every 2weeks or so after 6 weeks to see what state it is in.[/url]
Cheers frugal, that's the one I was thinking of.

Cheers

Mark
 

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