And now the drawers. Although the plans I've been working from don't show them, I've decided to use dovetails for the joints and to make allowance for side-mounted drawer glides. The front dovetails will be half blind and the back ones will be through DTs.
It doesn't matter which drawer we start with but I'm starting at the bottom. I laid out some construction lines indicating the corners of the space for the drawer. I also added a construction lines at the bottom of the drawer a known distance from the front of the cabinet. In this case I put it 24” out in front because the drawer wouldn't be that deep and I wouldn't have to work inside the cabinet to complete the drawer.
Using the construction lines as a guide I drew a vertical rectangle and used P/P to give it some thickness. This is the drawer front. I added some dimensions temporarily to help illustrate the tiny change about to be made.
As drawn the drawer front is exactly the same size as the opening. Clearly that's not a good idea. We'll use P/P to move each edge face in by 1/16” inch. I could have resized the drawer front in two steps—1/8” at a time but then I'd have to move the drawer to center it in the opening. It's really six of one and a half dozen of the other.
After pushing all four surfaces we make the drawer front into a component. The lay out some construction lines as guides for the drawer side. I put a guide line at the mid line of the end of the drawer face (This is more for illustration than anything. You could manage fine without this one.) and another 7/16” in from the end on the back face. The 7/16” plus the 1/16” gap from the Push/Pull, above, create a 1/2” gap for the drawer slide.
I start a rectangle for the side as shown. Notice the inference lines showing referencing to the construction lines.
I put a construction line in as an illustration for the back of the drawer but I could have simply typed the distance in to get the line.
Push/Pull makes the drawer side. I make it a component, copy it mirror the copy and move that copy into place for the opposite side. A construction line at the other end makes it easy to locate the second side.
After that I draw the back. I draw it to the full height of the sides and front. I make it a component as well. Note that I start drawing it on the outside face of the drawer side. The opposite end will also be on the outside face of the corresponding side. Of course the real board would need to be made to this length to make allowance for the joinery.
Now we'll start the joinery on the front. First I add a rebate to the exterior face of the drawer side at each end.
Now we start laying out for the dovetails. I'm only doing a single pin and two half pins. You could do as many as you want. The procedure is the same for all of them. First a centerline for the middle pin and one for the top and bottom half pins. Those last two are set at 1/4” from the edge which is half of the 1/2” wide pin.
I added lines 1/4” off either side of the centerline, too. Then I start with the Protractor tool to set angled lines. I used 8° for the angle. The biggest trick is to make sure you get the angled lines running the right way but isn't that the biggest trick when laying out dovetails on the wood, too?
At this point it wouldn't make any difference if we cut sockets or pins first. I'm cutting sockets first. Edit the side component, trace the layout lines...
...and then Push/Pull the waste. Remember to waste the sockets in this case. Since the sides are related components, the sockets are done on the other side at this point, too.
Edit the Drawer front and trace the sockets. Waste the spaces between the pins with Push/Pull.
Here's the completed joint after repeating the last steps on the opposite end, too.
Plow the groove for the bottom panel in the side panels. I hid the front and back for the moment to make it easier to see.
Edit the front and plow the groove there as well.
Edit the bottom of the back. Push/Pull the bottom up so the bottom panel can slide in after the drawer box is assembled.
I repeat the layout steps for the dovetails then edit the sides and the back.
A rectangle starts the bottom panel.
Push/Pull completes it. I used x-ray view to allow me to push the panel into the groove on the drawer front.
We make the bottom panel into a component and we have a drawer. We could select all five components and make them into a component but we'd have to break up copies of the drawers later anyway so we'll skip it.
The next drawer is the same height as the first. I copy the components up by 7/8”(3/4” for the divider plus 1/16” for the gap at the top of the bottom drawer and another 1/16” for the gap at the bottom of the next drawer. I set construction lines just to show where we're going.
I copy the drawer up again to make the third one. Notice the top horizontal construction line. It is set to the height of the drawer opening minus 1/16” for the gap. This drawer is too tall for the opening. Hold on to your hats because we're going to fix that in a moment.