Struggling to plane stock square

[BluegillUK]

Thanks for the info Tom, it's nice to know what I'm supposed to be aiming for. At the moment it's very much a case of 'making do' unfortunately. The composite door is a good shout, so will look at doing that if I get some space!

Just to add, despite the glued up edges being a bit on the skew, I managed to work out the best planing angle to get both sides of the top parallel and flat, and to be fair it's not bad at all. I've done it all by hand and I didn't expect to be able to, so I am pleased and the feeling of seeing the boards glued and square put my little hissy fit into perspective.

Next step is making it circular and smoothing the edges. One step at a time

 

[Ttrees]

It looks well
Did you plane it on the workmate ?
I would be making a batten for a planing stop if you haven't allready
You could clamp it on your surface

I'm not sure if you have cambered an iron yet , It would be a wise decision I think since you have two planes
I know that a match planed skewed joint will have more glue surface, but keeping a straight iron
makes things much more difficult, a cambered iron guarantees you to have a surface that wont have a high spot in the middle.
A high spot along the middle can cause a glue joint to fail ,
granted you can do a narrow edge because your plane is wider than the timber, but it saves time and is a much surer way to go.
Whats next
Tom

 

[BluegillUK]

It looks well
Did you plane it on the workmate ?
I would be making a batten for a planing stop if you haven't allready
You could clamp it on your surface

I'm not sure if you have cambered an iron yet , It would be a wise decision I think since you have two planes
I know that a match planed skewed joint will have more glue surface, but keeping a straight iron
makes things much more difficult, a cambered iron guarantees you to have a surface that wont have a high spot in the middle.
A high spot along the middle can cause a glue joint to fail ,
granted you can do a narrow edge because your plane is wider than the timber, but it saves time and is a much surer way to go.
Whats next
Tom

Thanks again for the info Tom. Yes, workmate with some carefully positioned clamps. A total bodge but I was pretty happy with it!

I'm in the middle of refurbing the Record 4 1/2 and I *think* it has a cambered blade already? Needs fettling and sharpening etc but other than that, it's nearly good to go.

I also managed to get the spokeshave set up and turned the square board into my stool top. My word spokeshaves are fun! I've since done the legs too, but they're pretty tricky to get equal.

The bits of wood I was planning to use for the legs had a screw through one side, so I drilled a symmetrical hole next to it and plugged the hole with dowel. Nothing fancy but it makes it look intentional. The legs themselves took a lot of material removal but they're now nearly ready. Planning to attach to the top with some sort of circular tenon w/wedge but really worried about ruining it at a crucial point!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[D_W]

I could be wrong, but it looks like someone was honing the heel of that iron.

 

[Ttrees]

Your iron looks to be ground with a camber, then subsequent sharpenings were done, but there was no cambering work done during this honing.
That radius looks sufficient, and will be nice to refer to while your honing your edge to match.
Things are going to get easier, and you stand the serious risk of developing serious TAS, because your going to fall in love with hand planes.
If you can find a nice 5 1/2 you should grab it ...
Good luck
Tom

 

[woodbloke65]

It might be, if that is the technique the OP wants to use. And while i am not arguing the validity of the camber, clearly it works for many, it is not the only technique that works. I have never cambered my planes all my life, except a fraction on my smoothers. A straight across iron is easy to plane square edges with and the technique is easy to learn. In fact for a beginner, there is a problem it solves that a cambered plane can exassibate. It is easy move the plane in a diagonal as the plane moves along the timber's length, which can introduce a bit of wind into the edge. A straight across iron, set evenly in the plane, does not let this happen.

Cambered iron technique or otherwise, it is just about calmly analysing what is going on and correcting it, not getting all panicky and losing heart. Very sharp plane irons is a start, that will give you more controlled of the tool and allows thinner shavings which help remove the smallest amount when creeping up on that true edge.

Mike.

Same here. I've never put a camber on a plane blade, mainly because I use BU planes, but I agree with your comment - Rob