sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
Axminster have one for £165, so not a bad price for a cast iron top (assuming it's decent) but it's not that large, so I'd still need to insert it into a larger surface. It also lacks any slots for mounting a fence, so you'd still need to do a fair bit of work.devonwoody":hy4c2bkb said:Surely you can pick up a metal router table at those sort of ply prices and not have to worry about the problems timber ones can bring, and usually the metal ones can be universal with regard to router fixing now and in the future.
I may however stump up for one of their phenolic or alum insert plates. Not cheap, but possibly worth it.
The fortimber prices are very good. The birch ply is BB/BB (rather than the B/BB I was looking at) but for a garage cabinet that's fine. Just a shame he's 150 miles from meBodgers":hy4c2bkb said:£100 is the most expensive I have ever seen for 18mm Birch.
50-60 seems more typical to me.
http://www.fortimber.demon.co.uk/matrl1.htm
http://www.builderdepot.co.uk/wbp-plywo ... 440mm.html
http://www.swanseatimber.co.uk/shop/PLY ... _8611.html
http://www.jtdove.co.uk/resources/pdf/p ... rSheet.pdf
If all you are building is sides for workshop equipment, high quality birch ply is way over spec I'd say.
You could also make the top from Formica and make sure it is well supported.
I'm definitely moving towards the "birch is too much" position. In fact, I've seen people recommend putting laminate on both sides of the top to even out any movement; but if I'm planning on having a set of adjustment screws on the bottom then even that seems like overkill.
I kinda like the idea of something that looks like wood from the sides (i.e. ply, rather than MDF), so maybe the Wickes spruce would be sufficient for the cabinet itself. A face frame of thin hardwood would hide the ply end grain (and any voids).