Straight edges

[Anonymous]

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[Scrit]

Never mind - I'm sure you can do somehing with the sticky-back plastic I have left over :wink:

Scrit

 

[wrightclan]

Sawboard is good for small spaces and large sheets: http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm
Plenty of other examples if you google "sawboard"
You could use it with a router but far better with a hand held circular saw - a very clean cut is possible just needing a light sanding.
One big advantage of the sawboard is that you can put it up to pencil drawn lines and if these are accurate then so will the cut be - you don't depend on fences, guides etc.
You can check your drawn lines for right angles using 3,4,5, triangle.

cheers
Jacob
PS you can make up sawboards to size, big or small - doesn't only have to be for 8x4 sheets e.g. a short one will do for crosscutting small section timbers etc.

I've made a few of these, and they work well, but I was recently thinking, why not add a piece of ply to the bottom of the leading end (at right angle to the cutting edge) to act as a square? Seems so simple, I don't know why I haven't thought of it before or seen it before? Has anyone else seen or tried to make one that way? Or am I missing something (i.e. will it get in the way or something)?
Brad

 

[Colin C]

Hi Brad,

I have used some thing like that but it looks more like a T square with one short end.

I am not sure that is clear :?

 

[wrightclan]

Hi Brad,

I have used some thing like that but it looks more like a T square with one short end.

I am not sure that is clear :?

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. You've just said it more simply and concisely. :wink:

Brad

 

[Colin C]

Brad

I used to use one at work ( this is a few years ago :roll: ) as we did not have a cross cut saw, just a site saw :shock: .

We used it for all the cross cutting that we did

 

[Scrit]

I've made a few of these, and they work well, but I was recently thinking, why not add a piece of ply to the bottom of the leading end (at right angle to the cutting edge) to act as a square? Seems so simple, I don't know why I haven't thought of it before or seen it before? Has anyone else seen or tried to make one that way?

I have T-boards made for biscuit slotting which work that way. I've nailed "crossbars" on in the past, but they do tend to get in the way and are only really useful on shorter (i.e. crosscut) pieces. These days I crosscut on the saw.

Scrit

 

[Anonymous]

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[Matt_S]

There was everything I could want in that post Scrit. Going to go for this method. Think I'll be posting in buying advice soon, as my only power tool purchase so far (rest given) was my table saw and it was fine till i tried to use it! least it was only £25!

Comment on the workshop made me think of mine, garage after hours of sealing just seems to let all dampness through not water just damp. Noticed last weekend my workmate top has got mould on it (sob sob).

 

[George_N]

Just looking at your link again. You've got 3x2 PAR. This would't do for a smaller saw as you might not have clearance over the PAR for the motor housing - 2x1 better IMO. It's quite stiff enough when pinned/glued to a 1/4 ply web.

cheers
Jacob

When I've made up sawboards in the past I've always used the factory edge of a sheet of ply for the fence. I've successfully used both 6 mm and 18 mm ply.

 

[Scrit]

Just looking at your link again. You've got 3x2 PAR. This would't do for a smaller saw as you might not have clearance over the PAR for the motor housing - 2x1 better IMO. It's quite stiff enough when pinned/glued to a 1/4 ply web.

Agreed. It all depends on the size of your saw plate. As you know just about anything will do - it's the sort of thing I'd make from whatever was to hand (probably 3/8in plywood - that's what I carried about for a while). My Biscuit jointer T-square is actually edge-banded MFC screwed together with drywall screws (see, anything!)

Comment on the workshop made me think of mine, garage after hours of sealing just seems to let all dampness through not water just damp. Noticed last weekend my workmate top has got mould on it (sob sob).

The problem is sometimes that whilst you have sealed the floor, there is still a lot of damp in there - in the structure itself, in the air, etc. Unheated workshops are a bit of a headache in that respect - you need to get some heat in at times to drive off the damp, but equally if you go OTT and insulate everything in sight without making any provision for ventilation you'll get black mould. One question - did you cover your Workmate with anything like a tarpaulin or cloth? That can induce mould if there is any damp present. You might be well advised to take steps to protect your tools if it is damp in there

Scrit

 

[Matt_S]

its prefab concrete, I did paint floor but also exterior walls, roof and on roof re pointed and used roof mastic stuff on leaks.

However even though it feels really damp in there i was suprised about the mould and i did for a couple of days have some sheets which are normally over the car draped over the folded workmate while the car was away being mot'd that must've made the situation worse.

I keep tools oiled and they aren't showing any signs of rust. I have a heater but its a bit rubbish, think i need a new one.

 

[Scrit]

It's prefab concrete, I did paint floor but also exterior walls, roof and on roof re pointed and used roof mastic stuff on leaks.

However even though it feels really damp in there I was suprised about the mould and I did for a couple of days have some sheets which are normally over the car draped over the folded workmate while the car was away being MoT'd that must've made the situation worse.

There's your problem..... potentially. Even money that there is no ventilation air flow through the garage, so once moisture gets in it stays there. If you move a car in and out of the garage on wet days it will bring in a lot of moisture with it which can't get out again. On cold mornings that can even condense out on the sheet material surfaces of the Workmate. Throw a sheet over the top, trapping it, and the extra insulation then lets the mould get to work..... To keep your tools in good order I'd suggest that you make-up some plywood or MDF boxes/crates with tops for them between sessions and also keep things like the Workmate off the floor as it will always be slightly damper down there.

Scrit