Storage Shed - WIP **FINISHED!**

[gidon]

Well I mentioned this on another thread asking for advice on how to build a more heavy duty (work)shed - this ones just for storage (3m x 2.4m), so here are some pics:

Using a wedge to make a tight joint on the tongue and groove boards:

Framed the walls with pressure treated roofing battens ...

Full size drawing really helps for the roof - should have done something like this to start off with - had no plans at all not even a sketch which was stupid!

Ridge board held in place:

Cutting bird's mouth on rafters:

Roof framing done and some braces added.

I'm really not sure what I'm doing next - I might roof it or least get the OSB boards up.

Do you reckon it's worth adding any polythene sheeting for a storage shed? If so how do I do that? And I guess it's too late to bother with DPC - again didn't think it was necessary for this sort of shed.

Costs so far:
Floor joists, floor boards: £100 (B&Q)
Wall and roof framing timber: £100 (with a fair bit of 2x1 left over) (Tavistock Woodland Saw mill)

So considering cladding will be at least £200 and roofing probably £150 it's not cheap!

Any comments and suggestions always welcome.

Cheers

Gidon

 

[DaveL]

Gidon,

Have I read that right, you framed the walls with 2*1 timber? If so I would want to add the skin the walls before I worked on the roof, for fear of it all toppling over. I also think you need a few more braces in the walls to stabilise them, so maybe that 2*1 was not really over?

 

[gidon]

Yes you read it right Dave!
I think you're right I should clad the walls first! I'm scared of how much it'll cost!
Cheers
Gidon

 

[wizer]

I'm sure 1" will be fine once the cladding is on. You're right the cost of building your own shed is not cheap. Especially when you look at the pre-fab alternatives. But I have never seen one of those that didn't have a saggy or leaky roof (or both). It's such a PITA when an outbuilding develops a fault because, by then, it's normally full the the brim with 'stuff' and more often than not it's the depth of winter (DAMHIKT).

It's looking good. Keep us in the loop.

 

[MikeG.]

Gidon,

firstly, polythene...........no, leave it out. If you are worried about damp penetration how about a building paper instead.........but I just wouldn't bother. Polythene, and anything else that is vapour impermeable, will act as a great place for condensation when the moisture levels have a relative difference (ie it is wetter or drier inside compared with out)...........and this will happen whenever the temperature changes. It is this that leads the ignorant to say that polythene sweats.

Secondly, not a big issue here but something to take care of when you build bigger buildings.........your rafters should be either directly above studs, or, if not, the top member of the frame should be beefed up to compensate. It is normal to double up the top plate. Given that this is so lightweight a building I wouldn't bother doing redemptive works now..........just don't clamber about on the roof.

Fianlly, if there is no ply or other sheathing board as part of your external walls, you are going to have to use diagonal bracing. You can just nail on some 3x1 to the insides of your studs..........2 nails per stud.......and your bracing should go from plate to plate, and on each wall. It might be sensible to use some off-cuts of ply or OSB to do a complete sheathing either side of the door.

Mike

 

[gidon]

Thanks Wizer.
Mike thanks again! Bit worried now thought the 3/4" cladding would be plenty strong enough to hold it all together. Guess I should clad it and see how stiff it is? I don't really want to sheath it with plywood and adding braces sounds a little botchy! I should have added diagonal members in the frame as I did when I built the playhouse. But saw pics and real sheds that didn't bother so thought I wouldn't!
Cheers
Gidon

 

[wizer]

I know it can seem costly, but even in a storage shed, having the walls sheathed is so convenient. Shelves and fixtures pretty much wherever you want them. 12mm OSB will do it.

PS I hope this is a lunch break, it's lovely day out there

 

[gidon]

Wizer wish I could get out there but I can't now for over a week .
Are you talking about sheathing outside or inside - guess even outside is handy for attaching things hadn?'t though of that .
Cheers
Gidon

 

[MikeG.]

Gidon,

don't worry about it too much.......all easily rectified!!!

Screwing or nailing bracing across the inside is far from a botch. That is the way I would go for a store shed. It even creates a nice little gap in which to shove long thin things........garden canes and my drain rods benefit from just such an arrangement in one of my sheds.

Different if it were a workshop.......then I would certainly advocate sheathing the inside. It hardly seems worth the time, trouble or expense if this is just garden shed for lawnmower and bikes.

Cheers

Mike

 

[wizer]

i did mean inside

 

[gidon]

Hi
Back on this again in between children throwing up!
Starting cladding - I'll post some pics of progress soon. But I have a question ... What's the correct way of filling the gap in this pic between the top of the walls and the roof? The next bit of cladding will fit around the rafters and be flush with the top of the walls. But there will still be a gap between this and the OSB roofing.

Also the offcuts of the 4.5m lengths of cladding will have to do the 2.4m ends too but will only have 1.5m left from cutting the 3m walls. Is it normal practice to join short lengths for cladding longer walls? If so do I just cut a bevelled join end to end like this // (but steeper!).


Many thanks

Gidon

 

[Shultzy]

Gidon, you don't need to fit the cladding around the rafters, just underneath. Clad the overhang with plain boards and then put a board across the rafters (there's a pic on my shed build showing similar). Its ok to use short lengths of cladding as long as the joint is on a stud, butted square ends are ok.

 

[gidon]

Thanks Shultzy - great thread on your shed.
Thanks for the end to end cladding advice - makes sense! I don't quite get the bit about cladding to the rafters though and couldn't see the pic in your shed build that would help? I can't clad about the wall unless I add something? Am I being thick - I'm sure I am!
Cheers
Gidon

 

[MikeG.]

Gidon,

I think you will do this easiest by solid blocking between the rafters at the point at which they overhang the plate. 3x2's or 4x2's cut to fit between the rafter, and fixed such that they contact the plate and finish flush with the top of the rafters will do the job nicely (obviously you have one more line of boarding to do yet). The face of the blocking will lean outwards, such that the top of the blocking is on the same plane as the top of the rafter.

They will also help a little with the load distribution issue I pointed out last time, with the rafters not occuring at the stud positions. Furthermore, this squares up any twisted rafters, and locks them all into position.

You may need to plane a little to get the best fit, and if you want the same finish as your boarding you will need to machine the outer face smooth.

Mike

 

[gidon]

Thanks Mike
So I understand you I build up the top of the walls flush with the top of the rafters. Then clad to this?
If so didn't quite get your last point about getting the same finish by machining the boarding? Don't I just continue the cladding to the top of the rafters with these support blocks in place?
Cheers
Gidon

 

[MikeG.]

Sorry Gidon......so much easier with a drawing!!

Of course, you could do exactly what you suggest, and that would be fine. All I was suggesting was having the blocking fair-faced and having it exposed (not clad). I also suggested tipping it out to be at right angles to the slope of the roof......its just a matter of choice. If you've enough shiplap, do it your way....

Mike

 

[gidon]

Ah sorry I misunderstood - thanks a lot Mike - I'll see how much cladding I've got.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[Shultzy]

Gidon, these are the pics I was referring to

They show the rafters overhanging the sides and I clad them with 4" matchboarding.

 

[gidon]

OK managed some further progress on the shed over Christmas:

Half the pressure treated 6 x 3/4" shiplap ...

It gets harder and harder lugging this mitre saw out each time I get a couple of hours to work on the shed! (And don't get me started on the ridiculous way the saw mounts to the stand!)

First wall clad ...

Cutting out the windows (would have been much easier using a router for this!)

Went for Mike's blocking solution in the end. Cutting the 30 degree angle for the blocks:

And here installed with the last row of cladding cut around the rafters:

And this is how it stands:

I ran out of wood, nails and daylight!

It's now much more sturdy thankfully! Got the shiplap from Travis and Perkins and quite impressed. They were the cheapest, free delivery and the 4.5m lengths were very straight which made things easier! And they could deliver quickly (the day before Christmas Eve no less).

I'm trying to decide on the roofing - planned to go for felt tiles like on my play house but worried about the expense. Any other suggestions?

Also any hints / tips on the door structure / hanging method?

Cost so far:
Floor joists, floor boards: £100 (B&Q)
Wall and roof framing timber: £100 (with a fair bit of 2x1 left over) (Tavistock Woodland Saw mill)
Cladding, OSB boards for roof: £300 (Travis and Perkins)

Cheers

Gidon

 

[MikeG.]

Looks good Gidon,

..........but why does the last board on the gable end finish at the bottom edge of the rafter, rather than the top edge?You could save yourself some work by boarding straight over the gable rafters.

Mike