Stopped groove

[whybob71]

Hi all
which is the best hand tool to make stopped grooves? Just thinking about front drovers.......

I belive that a router plane is suitable for this task, but the available cutters limit the capacities.

 

[Anonymous]

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[Alf]

...the best way is to design them out...

As they say on WoodNet; Quoted For Truth.

Cheers, Alf

 

[whybob71]

Thanks for the replay. Actually I'm doing in the way you suggested for front drawers. However some times I need to make stooped grooves for different purposes (for example, inlay applications). I have router, combination and plough planes, but I don't know which is the best way to operate.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

some times I need to make stooped grooves for different purposes (for example, inlay applications)

You then may want to make up this cutter for your router plane.

Full description at: http://www.wkfinetools.com/tMaking/shootBoard/routerCutter.asp

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[whybob71]

Many thanks Derek
I did the same with some 10 mm hex-keys (actually I have grinded the cutting edge on the short harm of the hex-key). The only problem is that this home-made cutter has an hexagonal section which tends to move in my Record 71 router........ :?

Except from router plane, does any plane-maker such as Stanley ever made a plough plane designed for stopped grooves?

thanks again
Bob

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

does any plane-maker such as Stanley ever made a plough plane designed for stopped grooves?

Actually, any plough plane can be used this way.

Drill out the ends of the groove, then plane "backwards" from the one side (planing with the grain) until you cannot go back any further. Then turn the plane around and complete the groove into the grain. It does not matter if there is some tearout as this will not be visible.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[whybob71]

does any plane-maker such as Stanley ever made a plough plane designed for stopped grooves?

Actually, any plough plane can be used this way.

Drill out the ends of the groove, then plane "backwards" from the one side (planing with the grain) until you cannot go back any further. Then turn the plane around and complete the groove into the grain. It does not matter if there is some tearout as this will not be visible.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I feel very stupid, but I have to admit that......I didn't understand

 

[Alf]

I think what Derek means is first you drill to provide clearance for the nose of the plough plane at the stopped ends. Then you plane as best you can in sloping steps down towards one stopped end until you can't go any further. Then turn the plane round and plane towards the other end to complete the groove. Well something like that. It could be it's not common practice because it's difficult to explain, but my money's on it not being common practice because it's slow and awkward... :wink:

For the inlay task I imagine knife, chisels, router, scratchstock and even cutting gauge might all be more useful than a plough plane, but I'm happy to be proved wrong.

Cheers, Alf

 

[MarcW]

...
You then may want to make up this cutter for your router plane.
...
Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,

May I hijack a little bit? I'm interested in this stringing cutter you made. I read your article and wondered if you have made further experiences with the scraping blade meantime. I assume it will get shorter by sharpening and you will sharpen always the bevel and not the back. Do you have tried a burr on the edge maybe? The temper on the Allen key was fine? Sorry for this many questions but it is this gripping.

Many thanks in advance,

Marc

 

[whybob71]

I see......thanks......I will try later.
thanks again