Stick welding help for a novice, please

[Phil Russell]

Many moons ago I was bought an arc welder, stick welder. I am not very good with it but over the years have managed to repair such things as garden tools and simple fabrications with e.g 3mm mild steel where one bit needs welding to another. But yesterday, a process took me ages to get right. I had a piece of 6mm x 25mm mild steel and needed to increase the size at one end by about 3mm at a corner ... say 12mm long on the top edge and 12mm long on the end edge. So, no joining, just adding 3mm to the two edges on a right angle. I found it very difficult to get the weld depth ... the weld tended to flow over the edges to give 3mm where it was not wanted, the flat sides, and was quite thin on the desired top and end edges.
Is there a knack to doing this 'build up' process? I thought of laying my bit of steel flat on something (concrete?) and then running the rod along the edges to allow the weld to flow down and across the exposed edges.. but by then, after much effort I had done what I wanted. I guess that an experience welder would do this in one pass in a couple of minutes ...
I can add that neatness is not important as I simply filed / ground excess weld away to get my desired effect.
Any advice would be welcome in case I need to do it again. I was using 2mm rods.
Thanks for your help.
Cheers, Phil

 

[Spectric]

You need dry rods, any dampness will play havoc and their are special rods for buildup whether for hard coating or not but these are not essential. It all comes down to practice, right current for the rod being used and with thin rods it can be helpful to support the rod nearer the end and not just rely on the holder.

 

[guineafowl21]

If you had trouble with the weld flowing where you didn’t want it, the trick is to ‘flash’ in stages - run a short bead, then pull away and wait for the hot spot to cool a bit. Then run another, and wait, etc. An auto-darkening helmet is best for this, as you can see exactly where to start each time. I got quite good with a simple hand-held mask, so it can be done. Turn down the current, keep a short arc, and hold the rod more perpendicular.

This technique is also ideal for vertical welds or any time the molten metal tends to drop away from the area, like under a car.

As above, dry rods and clean parent metals make a huge difference to any weld.

 

[Phil Russell]

Thanks for the tips ... I admit that controlling a full length rod is difficult. An auto dimming mask sounds good as mine does not auto dim ... it is a wear and push up/push down type and is difficult to see where you are until the arc strikes. Re holding the rod ... I have seen this done. Are welding gloves anything special? I have some leather gauntlets that could do? Maybe it is time to add to my workshop. Rods were quite dry.
Cheers, Phil

 

[Alpha-Dave]

I assume you are wearing some sort of gloves? They are a must for heat and UV light protection.

I just completed a level-1 (the most basic) C&G welding course, I found that thin sticks were by far the hardest to control, thicker ones on 6mm plate were pretty easy to control, but the 2mm rods on 3mm plate were a real pain, particularly for getting started.

I suspect that you areusing a combination that the pros would think twice about; if nothing else they would just use MIG.

Not having an auto darkening helmet sounds difficult for me too; I used the college’s at first, and then bought a £45 one from NozAll’s site; it has been reasonable.

 

[guineafowl21]

Thanks for the tips ... I admit that controlling a full length rod is difficult. An auto dimming mask sounds good as mine does not auto dim ... it is a wear and push up/push down type and is difficult to see where you are until the arc strikes. Re holding the rod ... I have seen this done. Are welding gloves anything special? I have some leather gauntlets that could do? Maybe it is time to add to my workshop. Rods were quite dry.
Cheers, Phil

I hate the flip-up lens type of mask. Far too clumsy with gloves on.

Get an auto-darkening mask and you’ll be able to hold the rod holder with both hands, which increases steadiness, and allows supporting the rod as suggested.

Take those big clunky gauntlets, and put them by the fireplace where they belong. Oven gloves would give you more control. Look for TIG welding type gloves - you won’t regret buying them.

 

[Ttrees]

A piccy or two would help a whole lot I think.
I being a novice have a go type, always try and orientate the work
so gravity works in my favour.
And just like working wood or stone, try and work into the piece from the outside, instead of blowing out or melting off the edges if the rod is pointing that way, same way as you wouldn't spelch wood fibers and come in from the back.

If working differing thicknesses
Try to orientate the work so you can focus on the thick piece, pulling the bead onto the thinner work very briefly.

Ps those tig welding gloves are very nice regardless if you use them or not for welding, some being thinner napa leather than other ones.
I don't use gloves much for welding, but am looking for a local place than has them for the winter.
Much more tactile than rubber gloves.

 

[Phil Russell]

Thank you again. I normally wear thick leather gloves for any operation like this but saw a chap using longer gauntlets while holding the rod. I have always done the welding single handed. I have the leather gauntlet, mid arm length but maybe it is time for something better.
The mask/shield I have is old ... on the head with a headband and the whole mask tilts up, not just the viewing window. I guess an auto dimmer is the way to go.
Cheers, Phil

 

[novocaine]

I just so love to see advice thats completly irrelevant to the problem.
Damp rods. Nope that makes not a jot to why you are struggling. All that does is increase porosity because the hydrogen and oxygen in the water flash and gets drawn in to the bead as well as mucking up the inert atmosphere.
.
Autotint. Yer its great but it isnt the problem and its why the welders nod was invented,we didnt always have magic glasses.
Gloves to thick. Nope, you dont need pin point accuracy here and you should be moving your arm anyway not your fingers.

So heres os whats happening. As you heat the metal up you form a pool of molten metal. As a liquid it wants to be at the lowest point it can. So it slumos over the side. You as someone who is selve professed "not a welder" don't understand how to control this puddle of liquid, so it goes where it wants to.
How do you control the puddle then? You push it where you want it. A gentle weave, a pause at a lower angle, a push into the puddle then a draw out, a higher angle to force thebpuddle in to the base metal. all the while watching yhe puddle, not the stick. Its a skill and one you have to learn and it can take time, it's not easy without the big man shouting over your shoulder.

The right rod helps to. You want something for overhead and vertical, something like 7018 is preferred, you can do it with 6010 (which is most likely what you have), but as youve seen,ots a right ball ache

2 handed is useful, i usually use my right arm as a rest because i shake a bit and i still always practice the path and think about where the puddle could go before i run a critical line (actually less so with the mig interestingly).

Now for a sneaky trick. Grind a groove down the middle, only a mm or so deep. Run you bead in to it. Preperation is king.

You should buy an autotint though, they are great.

 

[--Tom--]

What rod were you using? Something like a 6010 or 6011 are fast freeze so may work better for you.
Pictures would help see what you’re doing

 

[Tuna808]

I’ve done similar welds before and they are always going to be messy,I like to hammer the flux from a one of rods and lay it on the edge and weld over it...it seems to help the molten pool stabilize and the slag stay on the top.I find having the work slightly inclined downhill also helps.
I also file or grind a small bevel on the edge.