Startrite TA175 riving knife alignment

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Just one other point. The trend reducers mentioned a couple of posts above are only 1.4mm thick. They would be great with a thin kerf blade using say 1.7mm plate and 2.2mm wide teeth. The washer wants to be just a touch thinner than the plate.
If you had an industrial saw blade made of substantially thicker plate, I'd prefer a thicker bush, closer to the thickness of the blades plate but never more than that.
 
Just one other point. The trend reducers mentioned a couple of posts above are only 1.4mm thick. They would be great with a thin kerf blade using say 1.7mm plate and 2.2mm wide teeth. The washer wants to be just a touch thinner than the plate.
If you had an industrial saw blade made of substantially thicker plate, I'd prefer a thicker bush, closer to the thickness of the blades plate but never more than that.
That was just an example to show what they looked like. All those do in reality is centre the blade as the saw shaft washers' raised edge still clamp against the saw plate and not the reduction washer.
 
Those are the spring roll pins, so with both in place, the slots should be factory set to the blade. There is no adjustment. That doesn’t rule out someone having played with it in its life. The main rip fence will have been factory set to run away from the blade, you can wiggle some adjustment of the fence itself, but sometimes people have adjusted the table to align the fence…..by for instance enlarging / elongating the lower holes for the pins / cutting the pins off below the table etc etc.

I personally don’t believe wood working machines were originally factory setup to the micron standards expected of today. That’s not to say they can’t be, because they can. However, saws were originally ‘roughing’ to dimension machines before final dimensioning by plane. Joints would be cut on them, but there was an expectation you had to do a bit of fettling / setup of a new machine and where this didn’t get it perfect overcome anything usually with jigs or matching parts tigether that would compensate for any minor discrepancies.
 
Doh! I made an 80 mile round trip to Axminster tools to buy a blade. Told them what saw it was for and they sold me a 30mm bore blade without suggestions regarding reducing bush's! Every day's a school day!!!
Maybe the washers don't come with blades anymore, it's been a while since I've purchased one.

That's a fence I've made to slip over the stock version when ripping MDF.

36D91F60-D6E9-4364-B32A-4E1DE14A2CE0.jpeg
 
Rather than staking (centre punching) the blade adaptors, use Loctite 609 (or equivalent) for bushings and bearings. Holds as good and is reversible in case you want to use the blade on a 30mm arbor. Hole in the blade won't be misshapen.
Silly question I suppose but aren't 5/8 bore blades available so you can skip the adaptors?

Pete
 
The packaging that the blade came in says reducing bush's are available. I just didn't know to ask the question! As I spoke to Axminster before making the trip and gave them the model number I just assumed (I know!) that they would put the correct blade aside for me!
 
You can get blades with a range of bores, including 5/8", inch quarter (for old industrial saws), and sizes like 16mm, 20mm, etc for handheld circ saws. Over here 30mm has become the most common for newer table and sliding mitre saws.
I can easily imaging Axminster stocking blades primarily to fit their own range of machines. I imagine the legacy sizes are slow moving stock. Easier to standardise on 30mm and sell washers, but their staff were asleep at the wheel this time.
 
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