Startrite 352s grinding

[Hopeful]

Hi all I’m new to big machines I have a start rite 352s and looking for advice it makes a rubbing sound as the wheels spin I’ve tried taking it all apart (stupid) and put it back as it was cleaned ready to go but it still rubs I’m learning as I I go like most when you watch videos on setting up the wheels seen to spin so freely and easy Iv moved guides etc out of the way still seems to rub by the way it is in use and cuts no problem I haven’t changed the blade since Iv had it but it will be a job for this week any advice on this machine or bandsaws in general would be appreciated

also would this machine be capable of cutting logs I’m based in Hemel and there is a turning club here I’m sure there is a few people there that would no

 

[Argus]

Eliminate the basic stuff first:

From your description I had a similar noise from my 352.

Turn off the juice and open the door. Look at the lower wheel; at about 11 o'clock on the rim you should see a small brass wire brush about the size of a match-box on an adjustable bracket. it's intended to rub loosely on the surface of the lower wheel as it rotates an remove loose sawdust.
In time I found that mine got some dust in the brush that got compacted and glazed over, resulting in an audible noise. You need to unbolt it and dig the schatzen-schizen out. Reassemble so that it is a loose contact fit - it shouldn't be jammed up tight.
If the wires are worn out or damaged, get a new one....... without it the rubber tyre on the wheel will get damaged by compacted sawdust.

While you're in there, loosen the blade, take it out and make sure that there's nothing wrong mechanically......
There's not much else to go wrong on this saw - assuming that your blade, guides and its tracking is OK.

Good luck

 

[Hopeful]

Thanks for the advice Have done this if I remember when I was trying to fix it was the bottom wheel it’s working but there is a little noise like to brush noise even when the brush is off dose yours spin freely with no noise at all have you had any experience with ripping logs
Thanks again

 

[pe2dave]

Doors open, ask someone to turn the wheels, listen at all the spots? Both wheels, above and below the cut point.
I usually found it to be guides, ymmv.

 

[Lons]

Apart from what's already been suggested Is it a constant rubbing noise or rhythmical as if catching in one place which can happen as the weld on the blade passes the guides? Have you tried running it with the blade off. Might be worth checking the brake linkage in case the foot operated brake is stuck on as well.
I assume you've downloaded a manual though apart from parts identification it's a bit basic.

They are a bit noisy anyway, all bandsaws are to some degree but I love mine as there's so little to go wrong, make sure you buy really good quality blades though as the difference is huge, my preference is Tuffsaws but others prefer Axminster and other brands are available which I can't vough for.

 

[Argus]

In addition to the above, as has been suggested:

1. Remove the blade.
2. Spin both wheels - they should run free, though the lower wheel is attached to the motor/drivebelts and there will be resistance - take the belt off if you need and check the motor.
3. If the lower wheel makes a continuous noise (with the dust brush out and the belt off) check if the brake is fouling (there is a foot brake - pedal on the left).
4. Check all running parts for free-running - bearings etc.

 

[Ttrees]

If it's any of the obvious suggestions above then disregard my post below.

I had the same issues with a previous new saw, which went back.
I could actually see some rubber dust coming off the machine.
That's what the grinding noise was, as the blade was pinching on the crown,
no matter what I done.
The engineer and shop owner couldn't fix it, and took some effort to get my refund.

Fast forward to now, and I bought another heavy duty ACM machine for 500 squid.
It appears to have some similar issues.
No noticeable tire pinching on this machine as it has flat tires, but the wear on them
suggests this was happening, which needed dressing.

I have a week old thread on my old ACM bandsaw in the projects section, which may give some hints to try.
(that is, if you have tried getting it to run smooth for a few hours already, by the usual methods which you might have stumbled across)

Going at it again today, been very cold and I hadn't the energy to get out there,
but going to get out there today, so might update it this evening.
My hands were like ice cubes working on it last week

Hopefully I can get it sorted without needing to do something drastic, which I have no bother doing if need be at this stage, as I've spent countless hours trying to fettle it.
Working slowly on this troublesome machine, and I'm thinking up some simple jigs which might be a wise decision, before anything radical gets done.

Good luck
Tom

 

[Hopeful]

Ok am I a a silly sausage yes ! Did I go about it the hardest was possible yes !!

the wheels were out of balance and there is a great big obvious knob at the back that twists the wheel either way

thanks for your help I wish I posted last year Iv tried ringing around so many companies to service it no one really interested or stupid money

 

[Hopeful]

Ohh most videos I have watched the guide are bearing wheel type on this bandsaw they are just solid wedge steel blocks which aren’t forgiven maybe I could change them

 

[Lons]

Ohh most videos I have watched the guide are bearing wheel type on this bandsaw they are just solid wedge steel blocks which aren’t forgiven maybe I could change them

They aren't steel and there are mixed opinions on what to use, personally I looked at converting to bearings method ( Steve Maskery did a project on here if you search ) but didn't because the original blocks work very well for me, if yours are marked it's not difficult to face them off.

 

[Argus]

If the pressure blocks are square to the blade’s side, set with a minimal clearance and not deformed, it’s six of one and half-a-dozen of the other.

My Startrite 352 is almost 30 years old and still going strong on the original pressure blocks.

I suppose that if you have a bit of spare money doing nothing and enjoy the hassle in changing them you can get some bearing kits.

 

[--Tom--]

I have solid guides on my startrite and like them. Planning a deep service soon and will face then off smooth again, but set close to the blade they work well. Can’t see why you’d change them.

 

[Hopeful]

Yeah I think it’s a case of learning my way through but since I have done that adjustment it runs really well it’s an old school one and when taking the guards off they have been cut into a fair bit that’s prior to me getting it there is 2 speed settings do you switch between settings I’ll only be cutting wood with it maybe to odd bit of acrylic I still has the blade on that come with it ha I hade a good look at it yesterday and there is teeth missing and it’s looking tired I have a new blade to put on an Axminster on any recommend type off blade for hard wood mainly oak / birch ply people complain about the pain of having to change blades I’m not worried about it don’t see it as a big deal they are relatively inexpensive so don’t mined having different blades for different jobs If it’s a better job
what else don’t I know or need to no about this machine

 

[pe2dave]

Ok am I a a silly sausage yes ! Did I go about it the hardest was possible yes !!

the wheels were out of balance and there is a great big obvious knob at the back that twists the wheel either way

thanks for your help I wish I posted last year Iv tried ringing around so many companies to service it no one really interested or stupid money

Not sure 'out of balance' is right, on mine, the big knob at the back moves the top wheel in and out to allow the blade to be centred on the tyre. Check the manual.
Glad it's sorted.

 

[Johnsoak]

These are also prone to having the yellow guards touch the band wheel - in the case of the top one it can cut into the rubber tyre and wear it away - this is also heard as a ”catch / scrape” on the top wheel.