Startrite 352S Bandsaw motor conversion

[Bluekingfisher]

Can anyone assist Please?. I have just bought a Startrite 352s 3 phase bandsaw (ebay). Reacting without thinking I suppose ( I got it at a reasonable price) I presumed I could change the existing 3 phase motor for a single phase one. Can this be done. I don't want to go down the inverter route. Any assistance will be much appreciated. David

 

[Neil]

The reasonable price wasn't £257 by any chance? :lol: If its the one I'm thinking of, I had my eye on it too. It went a bit high for me as I have £130 shipping to consider on top of the re-motoring, but you got a nice bargain. See this thread for help on re-motoring, where you'll find a link to an ebay seller who will have the bits you need. The suitable single-phase motor was about £100 IIRC. Let us know how you get on.

Cheers,
Neil

Oh, and welcome to the forum by the way!

 

[flh801978]

Hi David
If your existing motor is a dual voltage type then with an inverter ( say £ 150) your sorted + you have variable spped
Changing the motor and all the switch gear will cost you much more +time and effort
If you need to talk pm me and i'll give you my number
I have done 4 machines in my workshop

Ian

 

[CNC Paul]

David,

Try these people, they are very helpful http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Drives-Direct- ... idZ2QQtZkm

 

[jhwbigley]

i was told that if a motors dual voltage, it can be converted by changing the capacitor? :-s

John

 

[9fingers]

i was told that if a motors dual voltage, it can be converted by changing the capacitor? :-s

John

Possibly best not to take any more electrical advice from that source John!

There are no capacitors associated with a 3 phase motor so nothing to change.

Bob

 

[dickm]

Depending which model it is, changing the motor isn't <that> much hassle. My 352 is the early sort with the switchgear built into the column, so it needed direct replacement switchgear (danfoss, if I remember right) but you could always stick a new starter switch on the outside and blank off the holes in the column if you didn't mind losing the interlocks. I tried to do it "properly", inside the column. But with the later models with microswitch safety and external starter, it's pretty much of a doddle, since the motor is a very basic foot mounted sort and all the wires are already in place. You just need an appropriate motor and nvr switch.

 

[jhwbigley]

i was told that if a motors dual voltage, it can be converted by changing the capacitor? :-s

John

Possibly best not to take any more electrical advice from that source John!

There are no capacitors associated with a 3 phase motor so nothing to change.

Bob

:lol:

i don't know where i got the capacitor bit from. but a motor rewind company did tell me that if a 3 phase motor had 6 terminals then they could convert it? :-s

John

 

[9fingers]

John,

If it has 6 terminals then yes you can convert it from 415 volt to 240 volt but it still needs 3 phase power. 240 volt 3 phase is what most inverters provide So if you want to run a three phase machine from a single phase mains supply via common inverters you need a 6 terminal machine with something like 240/415v on the rating plate.

Bob

 

[jhwbigley]

thanks Bob,
thats made things clearer, and glad i bought a new motor instead.

John

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Thanks for your swift and detailed replies gents. I now have something to work towards although when I'll now get round to it is in question. I already have a crib sheet of "jobs to do" before I can play but I'll let you know the result of my labours.
Thank you too for the details of suitable contacts for motor replacement. I will contact them for availability but if not too much bother a further piece of advice is sought. I was going to upgrade to a 2 or 3HP motor to maximise the use of the available 300mm under guides cut. I am purely a DIYer but thought that cutting some logs maybe fun and an economical way of sourcing timber. Would 2 HP be enough power ( I understand that a 3HP motor would need its own supply).
Hi Neil yes it was the £257 saw from this Sunday. I went to £266 and that was my limit too. I contacted the chap and he is going to deliver to Huntingdon for £100. Cheaper than van rental or courier. Thanks for the welcome too, much appreciated.

 

[Maverick.uk]

Hi Neil yes it was the £257 saw from this Sunday. I went to £266 and that was my limit too. .

Seems like alot of us on here are keen watchers and in the market for a bandsaw! Yes me too......

Cheers

Mav

 

[Doug B]

( I understand that a 3HP motor would need its own supply).

I don`t think that is so, i use to have a 3HP compressor which worked off a standard 3 pin plug.
It didn`t like extension leads though :shock: :lol: :lol:

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Thanks Doug, I think I;ll take the plunge and go for the 3HP. Can't have too much power I suppose?

 

[paulm]

3HP is fine on a 13amp plug in my experience having just upgraded myself. The motor supplier warned that it may blow a 13amp fuse under heavy load and therefore recommended a 16amp supply, but in practice so far it's been fine.........

Cheers, Paul

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Thanks Paul, I think the extra grunt a 3HP motor gives is worth the ocassional inconvenience of tripping a fuse may cause. It is only for DIY use and will rarely be subject to heavy or prolonged use.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Gents,

My 352S arrived late last night and at a quick glance appears to be in good condition overall. I am not familiar with the Startrite bandsaws but my eye caught the blade guide system, in particular the thrust bearing, or lack of. There just seems to be a small fixed post about 1/4" behind the blade. Is this normal? Is it worth or can I indeed upgrade the upper guide system. I recall reading an american woodwork mag some years ago which spoke about guide upgrades. Does anyone know of any suppliers?

I don't have an operators manual for it any ideas where I could source one?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[paulm]

If the blade guide system is the same as my 351 it will have solid blocks either side of the blade and a thrust rod (about 1/4" dia) behind the blade, top and bottom.

Although it looks primitive it's very effective and preferable I think to many of the low to mid market bearing based systems.

Set the solid blocks (mehanite I think ?, which are self lubricating, a fraction away from the sides of the blade (width of a piece of normal/thin paper is about right), and set the thrust rods (they are carbide tipped so pretty hardwearing) a mil' or so back from the back of the blade, and give it a go.

Not much else to the machine really, very simple but built very ruggedly and should go on and on......

Cheers, Paul

 

[beech1948]

Bluekingfisher,

Your Startrite 352S was designed to use the solid triangular blocks made from Metanite. You can cheaply buy these from ALT. If you need the address then let me know.

If the blocks have a bit of wear they can be reshaped by using the "Scary Sharp" method to flatten them. When setting them up just place a piece of office paper round the blade and adjust the blocks upto the paper and then tighten before removing paper.

The puysh rod at the rear can also be had from ALT. Its a steel rod with a carbide tip. Adjust so that its about 1/16th of an inch behind the stationary blade. Works well.

Bearing kits are available. The best are from Carter in the USA. The Axminster replacement kit is OK ish but not much good.

If you call Record they will tell you that the Startrite bandsaw was best with the Metanite blocks due to the sheer size of the surface area they provide compared to the reduced bearing surface of the bearing guides.

Anyway mine are great. I flattened them about 6 years ago after getting my 352 and replaced the rear thrust bearing rod. They seem to work great even when deep cutting 8inches of hardwood.

regards
Alan

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I will second what Chisel said, its a simple system that works very well, don't waste money on new guides, spend the money on blades.


Pete