Startrite 352S Bandsaw motor conversion

[Bluekingfisher]

Thanks gents, that has set my mind at rest. One always wonders when they purchase a second hand machine whether of not all the original bits and bobs are in place.

Thanks too Alan for the ALT contact details for spares, another cursory look late last night revealed the bottom wheel tyre has a grove around the entire circumference of the tyre. I should imagine caused by a poorly adjusted wheel/blade where it has gouged the tyre away. I'm sure I'll find a few more defects when I get a chance to give it a good look over.

It is very satisfying and reassuring to know that people out there are passionate and prepared to spend there time helping others like me. Thanks again.

David

 

[apn]

If you are still looking for a manual PM me your email address as I have a scanned copy somebody on the forum sent to me.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Gents,

As part of this string I have received a lot of valuable information on the issues I have identified with my Startrite 352S bandsaw. I have decided to go for a 1.5HP motor for several reasons, mainly due to the size of motor frame size in relation to arbor pulley size, belt size etc and the fact that I have a newish 1.5 hp motor and suitable switch gear from another machine which will fit straight in ( with the inclusion of a flange face mounting plate) I will have to for go the anticipated and hoped for power but the engineering issues proved to big a deal. The original motor is a type 90 frame with a 19mm drive shaft. I have found out that motors above 1.5hp have a type 90 frame but this also means that they have a 24mm arbor. This would mean sourcing a pulley with a 24mm drive shaft hole and a 40mm o/s dia pulley size which isn't possible because that would allow enough "meat " left for the pulley belt recess. This would then mean mucking around with pulley sizes to attain the desired blade speed, not to mention the unusually small and narrow pulley belt. So as I say it will have to be 1 1.5hp motor for the time being at least.

Having got my head around d that issue the next thing to deal with is the bandwheel tyre which I mentioned earlier. The tyre on the lower wheel has the front 1/8" missing from the entire circumference of the wheel which I assume will NEED to be rectified. I contacted a couple of dealers who specialize in startrite machines who informed me that the only way to solve the dilemma is to purchase an entire wheel with attachedtyre as they are not sold separately. At £74.85 this seems an expensive way or replacing tyres, particularly as I was intending to replace both tyres to ensure an even wear. Has anyone overcome this problem?? I have also noted that Rockler woodworking from the USA sell urethane tyres to much approval from their US customers. Has anyone experience of such tyres?? One other place I found that sold tyres closer to home is Rutlands woodworking, they sell individual rubber tyres, could this be an option?? ans will the rubber tyres need to be glued on and with which type of glue and if they are suitable at all. So many question so any input would be greatly received fellas.

 

[Digit]

Can't help you on that specific machine kingfisher but I can give you some general info that might be of help. My old BS had no tyres so I made my own from a sheet of 1/8 inch thk sheet rubber cut to an appropriate width.
I cut the mating ends to a long taper to increase the area of glue contact and to reduce any ridge that the band might have to deal with.
I glued the ends together with super glue then used impact adhesive on the wheel where the jointed ends of the tyre would sit, when the impact adhesive was 'set' I simply stretched the tyre into place on the wheel rim.
They've been there now for some years with no sign of problems.

Roy.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Many thanks digit, where did you get the raw sheet rubber from ?

 

[Digit]

My usual source as indicated in my thread on Planes! My local re-cycling centre. :lol:
Send me the size you need and I'll see if the sheet is large enough if you want to have a crack at it yourself.

Roy.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Very resourceful Roy, I do enjoy rumaging through skips myself but it never crossed my mind to make my own. I'll have a look at the wheel when I get home tonight and measure it. It's a 14" dia wheel but not sure off hand of the width but should imagine about 1 1/4" or there abouts. Thanks for your help.

David

 

[Night Train]

It is possible to convert some 3ph motors to run on 1ph by using capacitors to phase shift the supply to the other two coils. However, you get so much power loss that it isn't really worth the effort.

I would go the 'easy for me*' route of fitting a 1ph motor and switch gear.



*Means shouting: 'Dad? Have you got a 3hp 1ph motor? and what else do I need to buy and what do I do?'. :wink:

 

[Racers]

Hi,

My 352 has the front 1/8 missing from it, its was caused by the guard for the exposed blade catching it when it was fully up. I have cut off the section that catches so its not a problem any more :wink: it still works fine, but may be I should replace it, any rubber left Digit?


Pete

 

[Digit]

A bloody great sheet of it Pete! If you want some let me know the size as it's a weird shape, then I can check to see if I can cut what you want.

Roy.

 

[paulm]

Gents,

I have decided to go for a 1.5HP motor for several reasons, mainly due to the size of motor frame size in relation to arbor pulley size, belt size etc and the fact that I have a newish 1.5 hp motor and suitable switch gear from another machine which will fit straight in ( with the inclusion of a flange face mounting plate) I will have to for go the anticipated and hoped for power but the engineering issues proved to big a deal. The original motor is a type 90 frame with a 19mm drive shaft. I have found out that motors above 1.5hp have a type 90 frame but this also means that they have a 24mm arbor. This would mean sourcing a pulley with a 24mm drive shaft hole and a 40mm o/s dia pulley size which isn't possible because that would allow enough "meat " left for the pulley belt recess. This would then mean mucking around with pulley sizes to attain the desired blade speed, not to mention the unusually small and narrow pulley belt. So as I say it will have to be 1 1.5hp motor for the time being at least.

It's definately much easier to put on a 1 1/2 hp motor and if you already have one to hand then it makes complete sense to try that first and see how you get on.

Having said that, the 3hp motor I replaced with on mine makes a huge difference on deeper ripping. The increased arbour size isn't an issue, the motor supplier just sent a pulley with taperlock to fit for another tenner.

The pulley was a bit larger and had a deeper groove but wasn't a problem to fit, just eased a mil or two chamfer round the outside edge on the grinder and it fitted easily.

The old drive belt was too narrow section for the extra power though and chewed up quite quickly, so replaced with the smallest size one I could find in Halfords which was about the same length but much meatier and it has made a big difference and stopped the slipping under load I was getting with the old one.

Turned out to be worth fitting a 16a supply in the end for the larger motor as once the belt slipping was sorted the startup started to blow the 13a fuses after all and a C type mcb on a dedicated 16a supply sorted that out.

So sounds like a lot of complications, but really quite straightforwards, and the pulley, belt and new circuit and mcb probably only added another £30 or so to the £100 for the motor, and made it all work very well indeed.

No need though if you can do everything you need to using the smaller motor, but may be worth looking see if you can fit a meatier belt anyway if you find you get a bit of slippage rather than just the motor slowing under load.

Cheers, Paul

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I had a look at the wheel Pete and the return on the top of the blade guard could well be the prime suspect for the tyre damage. When I bought the saw the damaged wheel was on the bottom, of course it could have been changed as the top wheel is adjusted more to allow tracking to be carried out and I assume the "static" lower wheel if damaged would pose less problems when the machine is running. I did note too that when I extended the blade guard up about six inches it came in contact with the tyre. I am hoping this is because the saw is not yet set up and the distance between guard and tyre maybe enlarged when the adjacent parts are set and tensioned. Fingers crossed

 

[Racers]

Hi, Bluekingfisher

Do you want me to take a photo of my modified guard? its a simple bit of work with a hacksaw to cut a small sliver off.


Pete

 

[Racers]

Hi,

Pics of my modified blade guard

Close up

You can seel the two notches at the bottom of the guardthe second one has been extended to allow it to fully retract without catching the tyre.

Pete

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Thanks Pete for the photos. Looking at it, it would appear that the guard is the cause of the tyre damage on my saw too. The sliver you have cut away is about the same width as the groove on my tyre. I wonder if startrite are aware of the problem or perhaps we are just unlucky .

I looked at mine again last night too and noticed there would appear to be a means of adjusting the guard in and out by a loosening a nut near the guides, or does this not alleviate the problem?

 

[Racers]

Hi, Blurkingfisher

Mine had a stop fitted (not by startrite) so you couldn't do the full depth of cut, even so it had some of the guard removed. you can't adjust the guard away from the wheel it runs in a slot formed by the door and upper cab.

Pete

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Thanks Pete, Looks like a hacksaw job then although seems a bit of a design flaw though.

Thanks for your time

David