Startrite 352 problem (Resolved)

[mcdonald_ajr]

My Startrite bandsaw jammed and I think I have damaged the Top Guide Post (or at least the mechanism inside that allows it to slide up and down). This is the rod that holds the top blade guide and slides up and down to adjust the height you can cut. It no longer moves up and down perpendicular to the base, but is now at an angle (down it is further right at the bottom). So I need to investigate what is causing this. I can't see an easy way to access inside the upper part of the band saw. It looks like I would have to remove the upper band wheel to then remove the plate behind it. Looking at the exploded diagram in the manual, this seems a somewhat scary procedure, maybe requiring pullers etc.

So has anyone done this, and has some advice to share?
Many Thanks, Anthony

 

[Fitzroy]

Lots of folks on here with that machine. Some photos will help them all I expect. I used to have one so with some photos may remember, but others have the machine to hand so could compare.

 

[mcdonald_ajr]

As you can see, the Top Guide Post is at an angle.

 

[Sachakins]

Are the two bolts you can see to right of wheel the mounting bolts?
Also is the bolt/nut you can see through the hole the bar retaining nut?

 

[Jacob]

I replaced the top bearing many years ago and I don't recall any problem. That's as far as I've been but the 352 is very well designed and I'd guess it wouldn't be difficult to strip right down. Just have to remember where all the bits go and in which order!
You seem to have an attachment to the blade guide plate which I don't have. Maybe a modification?

 

[Lons]

Hi Anthony

I seriously doubt you've damaged the rod as it's solid steel but the guide bushing has either moved or the fixing (possibly welded) has broken. Have you tried slightly loosening the nut in the second pic to see if you can manouver it back. Easy to know if you.ve got it straight as it comes up through a hole in the top of the plate when you raise the guard to it's highest capacity.

The rear housing is held on with 4 studs as far as I know but the wheel does have to come off however there might be enough room to just push it back and allow you to see what's going on. Maybe look down through the top hole or use a cavity camera if you can borrow one. You're too far away unfortunately to borrow mine.

I'll have a look at the diagram later when I get a chance as it's likely to be a simple guide I would expect and hopefully you might even be able to gently force it back as it's only a guide and not really under stress as long as it's in line. Out of interest how did you manage to displace it?

Edit. Just a thought. I think that nut is just to take up slack in the fitting, it might be possible to tighten the nut to lock it up and carefully push the rod straight again then readjust.

 

[mcdonald_ajr]

Are the two bolts you can see to right of wheel the mounting bolts?
Also is the bolt/nut you can see through the hole the bar retaining nut?

I would think it likely. I've tried loosing the bar retaining nut, but it doesn't help, and I'm slightly nervous of losing bits inside the casing.

 

[Lons]

If I get time tomorrow I'll shove the camera inside mine to see what the setup looks like and possibly what could have gone wrong.

Done it. I don't know if these help. Not too clear as I had to take photos of the camera screen. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be a way in without taking the back off. You can easily see down through the hole if you use a torch so maybe can see what's happened.

 

[mcdonald_ajr]

Hi Anthony

I seriously doubt you've damaged the rod as it's solid steel but the guide bushing has either moved or the fixing (possibly welded) has broken. Have you tried slightly loosening the nut in the second pic to see if you can manouver it back. Easy to know if you.ve got it straight as it comes up through a hole in the top of the plate when you raise the guard to it's highest capacity.

The rear housing is held on with 4 studs as far as I know but the wheel does have to come off however there might be enough room to just push it back and allow you to see what's going on. Maybe look down through the top hole or use a cavity camera if you can borrow one. You're too far away unfortunately to borrow mine.

I'll have a look at the diagram later when I get a chance as it's likely to be a simple guide I would expect and hopefully you might even be able to gently force it back as it's only a guide and not really under stress as long as it's in line. Out of interest how did you manage to displace it?

Edit. Just a thought. I think that nut is just to take up slack in the fitting, it might be possible to tighten the nut to lock it up and carefully push the rod straight again then readjust.

I can push the rod up through the hole at the top, It then realigns correctly, and if I tighten the hand locking wheel, it locks in position, so I could use that to cut large bits if wood. It's when I lower the rod and the end comes out of the hole at the top, it springs to the right. It's as if an upper internal guide has come loose. I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and start disassembling.

 

[mcdonald_ajr]

If I get time tomorrow I'll shove the camera inside mine to see what the setup looks like and possibly what could have gone wrong.

Manual includes exploded diagram.

 

[Lakeburch]

Manual includes exploded diagram.

It's open on mine, so this is what yours probably looks like.

 

[mcdonald_ajr]

My Startrite bandsaw jammed and I think I have damaged the Top Guide Post (or at least the mechanism inside that allows it to slide up and down). This is the rod that holds the top blade guide and slides up and down to adjust the height you can cut. It no longer moves up and down perpendicular to the base, but is now at an angle (down it is further right at the bottom). So I need to investigate what is causing this. I can't see an easy way to access inside the upper part of the band saw. It looks like I would have to remove the upper band wheel to then remove the plate behind it. Looking at the exploded diagram in the manual, this seems a somewhat scary procedure, maybe requiring pullers etc.

So has anyone done this, and has some advice to share?
Many Thanks, Anthony

Well I managed to fix it. There is a rubbing block between two Allen keyed locking bolts for adjustment. This had come out, because I had removed the guides from the bottom of the top guide post and allowed the post to drop fully down. To remedy, I had to remove the door, remove the upper band wheel, by unscrewing the blade tracking control and remove the central nut. No need to remove the three bolts on the wheel. You then loosen the two small bolts on the right, but do not remove them completely, and remove the two larger bolts on the left. I then had to loosen the bolts that hold the switch panel on and was then able to remove the panel behind the band wheel to gain access. The two photos show the rubbing block that had come off, and how it just rests on the two Allen keyed locking bolts. It did take me a few hours, as everything interlocks, but it's now working again. I was particularly pleased with how simple it was to remove the band wheel. I was expecting it to be a nightmare.

Thanks to everyone for all the advice.

Anthony

 

[Robbo3]

It would be nice if you could now edit the title & add fixed.

 

[mcdonald_ajr]

It would be nice if you could now edit the title & add fixed.

Robbo, excellent idea, but I can't see how to do that? I can see an edit button for the last post I made, but that doesn't seem to let me edit the title, and there is no edit button for my first post.

 

[okeydokey]

Robbo, excellent idea, but I can't see how to do that? I can see an edit button for the last post I made, but that doesn't seem to let me edit the title, and there is no edit button for my first post.

Hi ask a moderator they can do it

 

[Sideways]

@Robbo3 , @okeydokey
Just to respond to that, both suggestions are entirely sensible but we're going to pass on the invitation.
It's a trivial edit but moderating is something that happens when a few volunteers have time to look in or the forum and give some time over to the housework. Pretty much like volunteers tidying up after others down the local men's shed.
Threads run perfectly well without title changes like this so there's no need to make work, however little.
When a thread serves it's purpose it's polite for the OP to add a post to thank people for suggestions and let us know what works and what didn't (excellent example above BTW, thanks).
Likewise contributors to a thread should read the whole thread before adding to it.
With a little etiquette, no one's time gets wasted.
Some threads serve as a reference for others in similar situations and can have a life that continues long after the original question has been answered or problem solved.

Thank you both