Starteite 352 tracking

[Sebb]

Hi,

I’ve had a Startrite 352 for a while and have been very happy with it but after snapping a couple of blades recently so I went back to the beginning following Alex Snodgrass setup tutorial, removed table and guides etc. to try and sort the issue before the next scary big bang.

With all guides and table off I can see that when I adjust the tension and tracking on the topwheel the blade always runs towards the back of the bottom wheel, whatever combination of tension and top wheel tracking I use. Wider blades like the 5/8 overhang the back of the wheel slightly, the blade then rubs against the cabinet frame where it enters the top cabinet and back of the blade cutout in the table. The tires on both wheels seem in reasonable condition.

I understand that it doesn’t matter too much where it runs on the bottom wheel but I suspect the blade rubbing against the cabinet and table is what is causing them to snap so I’d like to get it so at least the entire width of the bottom blade is on the wheel, any tips or advice would be much appreciated.

 

[Jacob]

I had snapping blades with my 352 years ago and it was due to poor welds and over tightening. Different supplier and attention to the tension window and it hasn't happened since. Least tension is better.
The machine is designed for 3/4 blades max so 5/8 should be fine.
Maybe swap the wheels over?
Can happen that a blade is distorted a touch, for one reason or another, and runs off. Another new blade may be OK.
Other than that it has run perfectly, loads of work, for 40 years or so. I did wonder about new tyres but the price put me off and they are the originals still.
Blade guides finally wore out and have replaced with beech replicas. Easy to make so did a boxful but still on the first set. Lignum Vitae is top choice but beech, maple and other hardwoods get mentioned for bearings etc.

 

[Rhossydd]

I don't think a bandsaw blade should ever rub on anything when being set up. Under work loads it may rub slightly on guides and thrust bearing, but nothing else.

 

[Jacob]

I had snapping blades with my 352 years ago and it was due to poor welds and over tightening. Different supplier and attention to the tension window and it hasn't happened since. Least tension is better.
The machine is designed for 3/4 blades max so 5/8 should be fine.
Maybe swap the wheels over?
Can happen that a blade is distorted a touch, for one reason or another, and runs off. Another new blade may be OK.
Other than that it has run perfectly, loads of work, for 40 years or so. I did wonder about new tyres but the price put me off and they are the originals still.
Blade guides finally wore out and have replaced with beech replicas. Easy to make so did a boxful but still on the first set. Lignum Vitae is top choice but beech, maple and other hardwoods get mentioned for bearings etc.

PS forgot to say - check that the wheels can be adjusted to be in alignment, co-planar, with a long straight edge.

 

[Sebb]

Thanks for the suggestions,did wonder about checking coplanar with a straight edge but can’t place anything across because of the cabinet, guess I need to get a bit more creative and find a way, i hadn’t thought of swapping the wheels over that could be an option.

like the idea of hardwood blade guides though the amount mine have rubbed I’m pretty sure they’d have gone up in smoke!!

 

[Jacob]

Thanks for the suggestions,did wonder about checking coplanar with a straight edge but can’t place anything across because of the cabinet, guess I need to get a bit more creative and find a way,

A length of board with two cuts to slot over the cabinet sticking out bits.

i hadn’t thought of swapping the wheels over that could be an option.

They might have different wear profiles and carry the blade differently?

 

[Sebb]

Happy days, swapping the wheels improved things enough that if the top blade runs toward the front of the wheel the bottom one runs fairly central and it all works well enough, but less tension than I had been applying also seems to help

Checking for co planar reveals that the top wheel should come forward a little but couldn’t see a good way to shim the top wheel so left it as it is. If I shim the wheel then it doesn’t sit on the hub properly and I don’t have the right size washers to shim the hub

On the tracking the blade runs toward the front of the top wheel only, as soon as the blade adjustment takes effect and moves it away from the front edge the blade runs for the back of the wheel and off, then takes a lot of adjustment before it runs happily on the front again, tiny adjustments to get it more central have no effect until enough are made then one will be like the straw that broke the camels back, off it dives for the back of the wheel and off we go again…

 

[Jacob]

Happy days, swapping the wheels improved things enough that if the top blade runs toward the front of the wheel the bottom one runs fairly central and it all works well enough, but less tension than I had been applying also seems to help

Checking for co planar reveals that the top wheel should come forward a little but couldn’t see a good way to shim the top wheel so left it as it is. If I shim the wheel then it doesn’t sit on the hub properly and I don’t have the right size washers to shim the hub

On the tracking the blade runs toward the front of the top wheel only, as soon as the blade adjustment takes effect and moves it away from the front edge the blade runs for the back of the wheel and off, then takes a lot of adjustment before it runs happily on the front again, tiny adjustments to get it more central have no effect until enough are made then one will be like the straw that broke the camels back, off it dives for the back of the wheel and off we go again…

Maybe you have to re-profile the tyres a touch? Check the flat of the tyre for square against the wheel? Should not be flat, square, or tilted, but should have a slight central camber so that altering the trim would shift the blade a little, one way or the other, but not to send it right off