Stanley Scraper Plane - *****'s guide needed

[aesmith]

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some really basic info on the Stanley scraper plane, the one with spokeshave type handles. I've been fiddling around trying to see how use it, and have to admit that I don't have the first idea. Could anyone tell me ....

(i) Which way round to fit the blade, does the bevel go "up" or "down"?
(ii) Which way is the thing supposed to be pushed?

Any info gratefully received,

Tony S

 

[Roger]

Have a look at the instructions for this. In a different league mind you, but the method is the same:

Scraper

 

[David C]

Perhaps one of the archivists could post a scan of the original instructions which are very sound?

Failing that I have instructions on page 110 of my second book.

Since writing that article I have found that the large scraper plane blade will fit straight into the cheap far eastern Eclipse side clamping clone, no jigs necessary.

The blade essentially is sharpened just like a plane blade, very slight camber, with a polishing angle of 45 degrees.

The burnisher is used with very light pressure, to turn a hook, i.e. a dozen or so very light strokes along the bevel, starting at 45 degrees and finishing at 75 degrees to the horizontal, if the blade is laying flat on the bench top.

I have noticed that many users have trouble with the 112 scraper planes.
My best advice is to set them up exactly the same as the Stanley 80, both tools work extremely well when fettled, and are essential for keeping complex veneered surfaces flat.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth

 

[Alf]

Stanley 80 manual PDF courtesy of Stan Faullin's ToolTrip site and much scraper advice from Ralph Brendler.

But to answer the questions:
i) Bevel facing backwards
ii) So the top of the blade is tilting forward, thus if I'm going this way :arrow: it'd look like this / side-on

Cheers, Alf

 

[aesmith]

Thanks for the answers, I shall print off the instructions etc and see if I can get the beast in action. At least I know I have it assembled correctly!

 

[David C]

Thanks Alf, I am always impressed by the comprehensive data base.

Forgot to mention, we always flatten and polish the sole of no 80s. The finish from the factory is awful. 112s etc benifit as well, as they have a wide unsupported sole casting which may well have moved.

Recently we had to file the high spots off the cast slope where the blade sits, to get good performance.

When properly prepared these tools will take tissue thin shavings, without tearout, off the most difficult timbers or veneer.

As they get blunt more dust and less shavings are produced. If you get dust at the beginning there has been a problem with the sharpening or the turning of the hook.

David

 

[Alf]

Tony, another neuron fizzled into life and I remembered we'd had a couple of threads with some additional good links - you should be able to get to everything from this thread.

Cheers, Alf

 

[aesmith]

Making some progress. I need to work a bit on preparing and sharpening the blade, then I think I'm there.

Thanks again.

 

[Colin C]

From your pic I can see machine marks on the blade which you will need to get rid of to get a better finish.

I hope that is clear

 

[aesmith]

Yes, there are curved grinding marks on the "back" of the blade. It needs a bit more work to get rid of them, or at least make sure they don't extend right to the edge.

 

[David C]

That looks like a nice old model.

The current model is horrid and they have shortened the blade by 50%. Is this some new Health & Safety madness or just cost cutting?

The protruding blade can be somewhat dangerous and a strip of poster hanging plastic such as one finds protecting handsaws is not a bad idea.

I find that performance of these tools is doubled by the addition of a Hock replacement blade, which is thicker and harder, keeps going longer.

Maybe a sufficiently old tool will have a better blade than present offerings.

David C

 

[Colin C]

The current model is horrid and they have shortened the blade by 50%. Is this some new Health & Safety madness or just cost cutting?

I saw this when I bought one about 6 or so years ago :evil:
So I sold to a friend I worked next to for what I got it for ( it was about a week old :wink: )
I then went to a second hand tool market ( come to think of it I have not been for a while :-k :-$ ) and got an old one for a bit less, plus it had twice the blade, well almost :wink:

The protruding blade can be somewhat dangerous and a strip of poster hanging plastic such as one finds protecting handsaws is not a bad idea.


David C

Hi David

I am not sure if you know ( :roll: who am I kidding) but the old one used to come with a plastic protector with my one did 8)

 

[David C]

Colin,

Yes indeed!

Stroke of genius from Stanley, saved half the steel and the protector....... and I don't think we get the instructions any more.

Best wishes,
David