Spraying lacquer?

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gidon

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If I'm spraying Chestnut acrylic lacquer - it suggests sanding sealer first which I have some of too. Can I fill the gun with sanding sealer, then run it dry and add acrylic lacquer - or do I need to clean the gun out in between? Or do I just build up layers of the acrylic lacquer on the bare wood and forget about the sanding sealer?
Thanks
Gidon
 
Don't know about the gun stuff, but I would guess you have to clean it first, however, I was recently spraying Behlen lacquer and just went straight onto the bare wood - sycamore and maple - as instructed on the can
 
I've used the Chestnut Aerosol straight onto bare wood. Good results. Are you going to use the old B&Q HVLP?
 
Arghh - messed up - sprayed some sanding sealer, emptied out remaining sanding sealer and then tried spraying some celluose thinners through before adding the acrylic lacquer. The sanding sealer all conjealed and made a right mess of the gun - I should have just run water through I guess doh! I remember why I put the spray equipment away over a year ago and haven't used it since!

Still with a quick clean I've now sprayed some acrylic lacquer and it seems to have gone on ok. But will have to give the gun a better clean later.

I know you can just build up layes of the AL - but thought there must be some advantage of spraying the sanding sealer first otherwise they wouldn't sell it? Think I'll just stick to layers of the AL from now on!

I'm using my compressor and spray gun - I'll post some pics in my WIP thread shortly ...

Cheers

Gidon
 
It may be that they suggest using sanding sealer first to give the wood a little visual "warmth" because water based finishes can give a very cold and unnatural look on some timbers. I hate them on oak for example. On sycamore they will give the whitest finish available but you might still not like it.

On a related point, I see that Morrells latest water based finish is offered with a "warming" pre finish as an option. They claim that used together they offer the nearest thing yet to a cellulose based lacquer. Has anyone tried this out in a side by side comparison?
 
Thanks Yetloh - interesting - was reading about this last night - I'll check with Chestnut if I get a chance.

It turns out that celluose thinners should be ok to use to clean the gun so I don't know why the finish all conjealed? Does anyone know? Apparently although water is the thinner for the sanding sealer and acylic lacquer, celluose thinner is the solvent so should be used for cleaning? Can anyone confirm this?

Cheers

Gidon
 
yes you want to use normal paint thinners between coats, that will run all the old paint/lacquer out of the paint sprayer, you dont have to use a lot about an inch poured in the bottom should do it. if you dont you will end up contaminating the paint/lacquer together and making the work your spraying look bad
(and you don't want that!) hope that helps!!
 
gidon":1xb9ggjf said:
Thanks Yetloh - interesting - was reading about this last night - I'll check with Chestnut if I get a chance.

It turns out that celluose thinners should be ok to use to clean the gun so I don't know why the finish all conjealed? Does anyone know? Apparently although water is the thinner for the sanding sealer and acylic lacquer, celluose thinner is the solvent so should be used for cleaning? Can anyone confirm this?

Cheers

Gidon

I think the sanding sealer congealed because it has a thicker substance in it in suspension and it could be that as the gun sprayed the less viscous fluid first leaving the thicker stuff to congeal?

I use sanding sealer with a brush, sand when dry then spray 3 coats of acrylic lacquer works well...
 
Gidon
Isn't the Chestnut Acrylic lacquer waterbased? You wouldn't want to use thinners, just water, to clean the gun (and thin the lacquer!)
Hope this makes sense,
Philly :D
 
Thanks Philly - keep missing posts.
Yes it is waterbased so should have used water first as you suggest. The confusion was in the fact that cellulose thinners its solvent - for use when the lacquer dries.
Cheers
Gidon
 
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