Spiraling out of control

[wizer]

I recently acquired a 2nd hand Sorby Spiraling and Texturing kit and have been experimenting on a scraps. Even after watching the videos on the Sorby website and YouTube, I'm having problems. For some reason I just can't get it to make clean spirals. I've tried it on Oak, Beech and Sapele and all it really does is skate over the surface clawing up the curface as it goes. I have the tool set to the reccomended number 2 setting and have tried all three included cutters. Even the texturing cutter doesn't seem to play ball. Here's what's happening.

I did manage to get a half decent cut with the beech

But even that was not perfect

An ideas?

 

[richburrow]

Sorry mate, I know nothing about this at all.

 

[Turn It In]

Hi Tom,
First of all what speed did you run the lathe at? Should not be above 400/500 rpm.
Set the tool rest high enough so that the cutting wheel teeth start to make contact just below centre line and raise up into the rotating timber and you should start off as with the beach. Every time you make a pass be sure to push the cutter wheel firmly against the timber.
Also are the cutters still sharp? If not they can be sharpened with a diamond hone layed flat on the chamfer while the wheel is rotated on the timber.
Hope these points help Tom,
Regards,
Ian

 

[wizer]

That's a good point actually, I need to look into sharpening. I don't have any of those diamond hones. I might have to try making something from sand paper.

Everything else was as you suggest. Slow speed, trailing below centre, firm swinging motion.

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Tom,

Dispite what some would have you believe you really need a dense grained timber to make clean successful spirals with this tool. First step is of course to sharpen it, then you may have some success with Sycamore but I've found Sapele a bit soft and crumbley and Beech has those rays in which make the cutter bounce off because they are more dense than the rest of the wood :evil: :evil:

Oak and Ash are just too course to be successful

I bought one but don't use it anywhere near as often as I thought I would or indeed would like to, simply because of the uncertain results. There may be someone along later that will disagree with me and teach us both a lesson.....

Cheers,

Richard

 

[wizer]

I suspected there might be a limited selection od woods that this would be useful on. I need to rummage through my, rather extensive, offcuts bin and see what works best

Thanks all, will report back any progress.

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Tom,

Should work well with Box (and a sharp cutter :wink: )

Richard

 

[user 5053]

I agree with the previous posters. Beech is too hard for a beginer. Practice on something like lime, alder, sycamore or semi green fruit and evergreens where the grain isn't so wild and tough. Slow the speed down, think about what you are doing, make sure you are relaxed and composed and don't worry if you have a misshap. Rome wasn't built in a day.
Beautiful day here and turning in shorts. The only problem is shavings getting in your boots.

 

[big soft moose]

. Practice on something like lime, alder, sycamore or semi green fruit and evergreens .

yet more "fantastic" advice from your new best mate there tom - richard finds sapele too soft so you should naturally use something softer like lime or alder :roll:

and there is no point at all in using semi green wood as the spiral will distort as it dries

I'm not an expert on using these but the few times ive seen them demonstrated at shows it has always been on something hard and close grained.

re the diamon hone - I dont think sand paper is going to be a sufficient substitute , but you can get little key ring size DMT diamond hones from axminster, toolpost etc for under a tenner.

 

[stevebuk]

hi tom
they also used this tool at my club last week, seemed to do it well in the owners hands, but as each person had a go the pattern got distinctly worse, i think its a matter of just using it t get the feel of it and dont be dissapointed by the first results, try try again.
I saw mick hanbury at our club use one on maple seemed to turn out ok as i remember.
If its any consolation, i managed to get in the cabin today, but alas all it NOT well, bl@@dy goblets..

 

[penman]

Hi Steve

Get yourself the Ashley Isles one. Its Called the Len Grantham ring tool. You have seen it in action at my place and you tried it out :lol: :lol:

Malcolm

OOOps sorry wrong thread

 

[duncanh]

I have one that I use occasionally. I've got my best results from hawthorn and yew.
I keep meaning to use it more, but never seem to get round to it...


Duncan

 

[Hans]

I would suggest viewing Mick Hanbury's DVD's Making and decorating platters / boxes.
Iirc it is in the platter dvd that he shows how by lightly scratching the surface with the spiralling tool while the platter is turned by hand to find the angle at which you get a clean result.

If this doesn't make any sense, you had better buy the dvd.

With a little math I made a table that gives the number of indentations given the angle and diameter. Works reasonably well.

The spiralling tool works best on dense woods. The right presentation of the tool is important.

I don't use it often.

Scroll down to the top in the second picture on this page

Hans

 

[wizer]

Thanks Hans, I do actually have the MH Boxes DVD which is probably the main reason I wanted the tool. That's the thing, I'm sure I am 'doing it right'. I need to work out a way to sharpen it (or rather damage my pocket a bit more) and then try some more suitable woods.