Special problem.. please help

[Shultzy]

I think the square corners are the least of your worries. To cut an area of 600mm x 400mm you will need an accurate sledge to hold the router. This will allow you to move the router up and down and side to side. This can be done with a 1/2" straight in two passes of 4mm and 3mm. To get an accurate base you need a surface trim cutter which will give you a flat bottom. I've chose the two cutter route as the 1/2" cutters are about £12, and will do most of the work, and the 50mm surface cutter is about £45.

My kitchen worktops are 10mm x 600mm x 600mm ceramic tiles and they are very, very heavy. How are you fixing these tiles to the chipboard? I would have had picture frames, professionally sprayed with white Lacquer.

 

[SAEngraver]

I think the square corners are the least of your worries. To cut an area of 600mm x 400mm you will need an accurate sledge to hold the router. This will allow you to move the router up and down and side to side. This can be done with a 1/2" straight in two passes of 4mm and 3mm. To get an accurate base you need a surface trim cutter which will give you a flat bottom. I've chose the two cutter route as the 1/2" cutters are about £12, and will do most of the work, and the 50mm surface cutter is about £45.

My kitchen worktops are 10mm x 600mm x 600mm ceramic tiles and they are very, very heavy. How are you fixing these tiles to the chipboard? I would have had picture frames, professionally sprayed with white Lacquer.

Thank you for the reply... Yes, thinking much like you are... must minimise the work but retain top quality, Here is my decision for my trials - I am going to use Marine silicone to glue the tile (about 6kg) to the Melamine covered chip board backing board- I'll rough it up with some coarse sand paper. I will now have the tile on its backing board, and I will go to the picture frame moulding factory and buy what I like - The recess of the picture frame mouldings will need to be made deeper to accommodate the thickness of the tile - will do this on my router table.
I choose the Marine silicon for 2 reasons, 1. when I sailed around the world Marine silicone was like my constant companion, it glued and repaired anything broken in a storm once stuck it held for 5 years - my entire blue water sojourn - it will hold the tile.
I'll buy a good 45 angle miter box with a small tooth saw because I'll be cutting moulded urethane frames, don't want any roughness on the edge of the cut.
I will glue this to the backing board around the tile giving a nice finish - but I'll also screw the frame from the back of the backing board - this will add to the stability of the heavy tile because it will stand on the frame.
The multi cutter way seems like prone to error - remember I work in SA and my assistants are mainly untrained labourers,
willing but not very able.
Thank you for your input.

 

[Shultzy]

The recess of the picture frame mouldings will need to be made deeper to accommodate the thickness of the tile - will do this on my router table.

You should be able to buy deeper picture frame mouldings. In reality using 1/4" ply for the backing board should be sufficient.

I'll buy a good 45 angle miter box with a small tooth saw because I'll be cutting moulded urethane frames, don't want any roughness on the edge of the cut.

Miter boxes are not really that accurate, I would suggest this type - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Compound ... w/p/168640

I will glue this to the backing board around the tile giving a nice finish - but I'll also screw the frame from the back of the backing board

You don't need to glue the backing board to the frame as screwing will be sufficient Think what happens if the frame is damaged, how would it be repaired. The moulding will cover the edge of the tile to give a neat finish.