Spalted Beech hollow form plus other work

[mark sanger]

That photo walk through is fantastic Mark. Thanks for sharing. I spent the afternoon making a grinding jig, so it is good to see what standard I could be up to in 9 years if I keep practicing!

Your welcome.

I like to share my work and I am a bit of a forum junky if it is to be know as I never get to meet many like minded people. I just hope people don't get fed up with all my posts.

So far, so good.

A grinding jig is a good bet. I made one originally from details I got off of the net. It worked ok but I couldn't quite get the swept back wings I wanted on my gouge.

I spent £70 odd pounds on the Robert Sorby and once I used it I kicked myself more than once for not buying it before. It made a huge difference.

I know that for some being able to grind by hand is an important part of learning to turn.

For me I wish I purchased the jig years before.

Take care

Mark

 

[mark sanger]

Great WIP Mark,and a fantastic looking piece at the end
Nice idea for the paper weights too.I'd be happy just doing those

Paul

Thanks

The paper weights and how to make them was in an article I wrote for Woodturning magazine in Oct 2008. So they should have a back copy

They are really very simple.

Let me know if you want to know how to make them if you can;t get hold of it .

M

 

[Paul.J]

Mark Sanger wrote

Let me know if you want to know how to make them if you can;t get hold of it .

Thanks Mark.I should have that copy and will fish it out.
And will give em a go,when i get a lathe that is :roll:

 

[mark sanger]

Paul.J

Apologies have I missed something. Do you now have a lathe??

Am I being my normal slow self??

M

 

[Paul.J]

MS wrote

Apologies have I missed something. Do you now have a lathe??

No need Mark.Very long story,which you know part too,via George.
I am/was an Hegner owner.

 

[mark sanger]

MS wrote

Apologies have I missed something. Do you now have a lathe??

No need Mark.Very long story,which you know part too,via George.
I am/was an Hegner owner.

ah now all is clear

Yes me too. But hopefully the vicmarc300 short bed will be a new edition soon, may be, one day, if I sell a few more bowls.

 

[mark sanger]

I have to say

I am very impressed with the Hegner for the money. I have hammered mine for the last two years and it hasn't complained once. It may bounce around the workshop but never complains, lol



M

 

[Jenx]

Mark, have you a photo of 'said beast' ?

I'd like a look of that monster bowl !
:wink: 8)

 

[mark sanger]

Jenx

I will have a look.

To see what I have left on disk.

M

 

[El-Zilcho]

Cheers for the reccomendation - as soon as I have £70 spare I'll think about it. Or at least add it to the wanted list...

I'm also looking foward to my wife's reaction when I 'amend' one of my bowls with a jigsaw, as I love what you created there!

 

[mark sanger]

Cheers for the reccomendation - as soon as I have £70 spare I'll think about it. Or at least add it to the wanted list...

I'm also looking forward to my wife's reaction when I 'amend' one of my bowls with a jigsaw, as I love what you created there!

I know £70 is a lot of money but out of all the tools I have purchased, besides the lathe and gouges, the grinding jig has been the most used and useful. It gives me repeatability and allows me to spend more time turning and less time grinding.

I turn a bowl. Turn to my right, a quick grind and I'm back turning with consistent results.

Have a go with the jig saw. It is very liberating to allow your artistic side free. especially on a perfect form. the end result is great.

M

 

[Bodrighy]

I've got the Sorby and though £70 is a lot to lay out you save this in time as the tools last a lot longer. Grinding freehand, unless you are an expert gets rid of the steel a lot faster. A quick few strokes with the jig is all it takes.

Pete

 

[mikec]

Have to agree with Bodrighy.

I too have the Sorby and re-sharpening swept back grinds is very quick and removes very little metal.

I'm now re-organising my layout to put the grinder at the end of the lathe having finally realised that what feels sharp may not actually be sharp enough, especially the burr on a scraper.

Regards,

Mike C

 

[jpt]

HI Mark

As I have said before a stunning piece but I still prefer the simplicity of the picture of just the form standing on the base, but SWMBO prefers the full piece.

A question how do you sand the inside of it, I use a pad as you show to do the bottom of deep objects but I cant get it to work on the sides.

So if you dont mind what do you use and how?

john

 

[mark sanger]

Cheers for the reccomendation - as soon as I have £70 spare I'll think about it. Or at least add it to the wanted list...

I'm also looking foward to my wife's reaction when I 'amend' one of my bowls with a jigsaw, as I love what you created there!

Don't forget to post a picture I would love to see it.

M

 

[mark sanger]

HI Mark

As I have said before a stunning piece but I still prefer the simplicity of the picture of just the form standing on the base, but SWMBO prefers the full piece.

A question how do you sand the inside of it, I use a pad as you show to do the bottom of deep objects but I cant get it to work on the sides.

So if you dont mind what do you use and how?

john

John

It is more difficult to do the sides. What I do is to scrap the inside to get the best finish to start with.

Then I cut a disk over size by around 2 inches so that it over hangs the arbor. Snip the abrasive so that you can bend it round the sponge bit, then tape it around the shaft. the you have a fast spinning arbor with abrasive down the sides.

By keeping the arbor at an angle you can sand down but be careful as if you push too hard the plastic of the arbor can wear through and mark the form.

Then finish with finer grit say when you have gone past 320 and doing 400-600 is to do what has been handed down through time from as long ago and the Pharao's themselves.

If you believe that :lol: :lol: :lol:

If the form is not large enough to safely get my hand into with some abrasive then I will use a sanding stick being a 10mm dowel with a split in it. Slide some 400 grit in through the slot and wrap it around clockwise several times. Then you can sand the inside without it unwrapping.

Or if the form is not very deep I will get a meter role of abrasive and unroll it. Then roll it back up again but at a slight angle. This will make it into a longer taper and if you roll it like this tightly you can then use this down inside the walls instead of your fingers. By wrapping it tight it will be quite ridged and you will be able to apply enough force to sand effectively.

Let me know if I have not made sense.

M

 

[El-Zilcho]

Hmmm, looks like the Sorby jig is the one to get!
I have an idea of how to cut a bowl, will have a go tommorow and post results. Assuming I don't cut any fingers off....about nine months ago I was making a wine rack out of a reclaimed oak beam and broke a bone in my hand, lenghtways from knuckle to wrist. I am a little wary of hand held power tools now - maybe a jig is a good idea for me :lol:

 

[miles_hot]

Hmmm, looks like the Sorby jig is the one to get!
I have an idea of how to cut a bowl, will have a go tommorow and post results. Assuming I don't cut any fingers off....about nine months ago I was making a wine rack out of a reclaimed oak beam and broke a bone in my hand, lenghtways from knuckle to wrist. I am a little wary of hand held power tools now - maybe a jig is a good idea for me :lol:

I went for the Tru Grind one in the end - I'll only get to try it when I finally get up the the in laws (where it is installed) however it looks a lovely bit of kit.

 

[jpt]

Mark

Thanks for the reply some useful info there.

For doing the inside of smaller items I use these.



They dont work so well on larger items or anything with a curved wall as the wood can scratch the surface.

Jenx and big soft moose have given me an idea though when talking about kids soft balls. I am going to try wrapping the wood in foam then putting the velcro on in strips.

If that doesnt work I will try one of the soft balls stuck to the end of a dowel and then velcro on top.

I will let you know how it works out.

john

 

[Bodrighy]

Jenx and big soft moose have given me an idea though when talking about kids soft balls. I am going to try wrapping the wood in foam then putting the velcro on in strips.

If that doesnt work I will try one of the soft balls stuck to the end of a dowel and then velcro on top.

I will let you know how it works out.

john

It should work. You can buy things like that commercially. The abrasive comes in disc form with little v segments cut out around it so it fits onto the ball. If you do some could you post info as I'm d****** if I am going to fork out for something if I can make it myself. :evil:

Pete