Sorry, another sharpening thread. I'll make it quick.

[BearTricks]

I've got a new carving knife, because I'm not content with filling the shed with power tools and trailing sawdust in through the back door, I need to get wood shavings all over the lawn while it's so sunny. It's a mora frost 106, on the recommendation of Robin Wood if that makes a difference. It came sharp, but not razor sharp.

I've made a strop from an old belt, and bought a chunk of jewelers rouge for honing. I'd imagine I need something somewhat coarser too for when I need more than just a touch up. The internet seems split between people who stop at between 600 and 1200 grit, and people who are constantly hunting for expensive 34,000 grit japanese stones.

I think I'll probably go for a couple of the credit card sized sharpening stones. So my question is what's the deal with the stones that feature the red, yellow and green ovals on the surface as opposed to the ones that are solid grey/silver? I've never seen one of these in person but it seems as if the diamonds are either only on these coloured areas, or only on the grey areas to save money in the manufacturing process. I might be wrong. It's always the cheaper ones that seem to have this feature.

 

[porker]

The ones I have got were super cheap and have the ovals. The abrasive is only on the grey material and this is stuck on to a plastic coloured backing material which shows through the holes. I pulled them out of my tool box the other day and the backing fell away from them all. Also got a Trend credit card sized diamond card. Thats good for touching up knives but I'm easily pleased.

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

[Phil Pascoe]

In 30 years of working with chefs, I never once saw one use a strop. Get a diamond "steel".

 

[Zeddedhed]

In 30 years of working with chefs, I never once saw one use a strop. Get a diamond "steel".

+1 for the steel.

If you want to get a maniacally sharp psycho edge on it then try drawing the edge across the edge of your car window at an angle as if it were the steel. Then you can more or less split atoms with it. (honest!!)

 

[KevM]

Disregard the two previous comments on using steels - they're intended for food carving knives NOT wood carving knives. Also, chefs can't sharpen for **** - fact.

Hone regularly and you'll rarely need to sharpen, I use autosol on a piece of leather.

 

[woodpig]

Solvol Autosol is indeed reckoned to be the dogs for honing but I've yet to try it myself. The blue abrasive stick is also good I'm told.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Sorry, I just read carving knife - you'd have problems sharpening a wood carving knife witha a steel

I'd take issue with chefs not being able to sharpen knives, though. Life must be hard using knives all day every day for decades not knowing how to sharpen them.

 

[Racers]

The edge on a kitchen knife can be rougher than a wood working tool, it gives some bite to cut through tomato skins etc, I know you can do the same thing with a very sharp smooth edge but its more difficult to obtain.
1000 grit waterstone is fine for kitchen knives.

I use Autosol for stropping after a 8000 grit waterstone.

Pete

 

[Lons]

+ 1 for autosol on a leather strop. I have several which are leather glued to flat timber as I also use some grades of honing soap when needed. My chiselsonly occasionally need a sharpen as regular honing keeps the edge going a long time. depends on the wood you're carving of course.

I admit to cringing when I read "use a steel". :lol: :lol:

Bob

 

[Racers]

I have a Ikea ceramic steel that works well and in less destructive than a new coarse steel, and remarkable cheap.

http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/30167003/

Pete

 

[bugbear]

I'd take issue with chefs not being able to sharpen knives, though. Life must be hard using knives all day every day for decades not knowing how to sharpen them.

European chefs (and, to an even greater extreme, butchers) are supreme sharpening pragmatists.

They have evolved a knife technology and associated sharpening system that quickly gives them an edge that is good enough to do the work they do.

If you talk to a fish monger, they work quite differently, because cutting fish needs a much better edge than cutting meat.

Fish mongers think butchers' knives are blunt, or at least too blunt for fish.

BugBear

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I have a Ikea ceramic steel that works well and in less destructive than a new coarse steel, and remarkable cheap.

http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/30167003/

Pete

Not available on line. I priced in a 360 mile round trip and it got a bit expensive.

 

[BearTricks]

Just got some autosol for a few quid from the local grumpy tool shop guy. I'll see how it goes.

 

[Ed Bray]

I'd take issue with chefs not being able to sharpen knives, though. Life must be hard using knives all day every day for decades not knowing how to sharpen them.

European chefs (and, to an even greater extreme, butchers) are supreme sharpening pragmatists.

They have evolved a knife technology and associated sharpening system that quickly gives them an edge that is good enough to do the work they do.

If you talk to a fish monger, they work quite differently, because cutting fish needs a much better edge than cutting meat.

Fish mongers think butchers' knives are blunt, or at least too blunt for fish.

BugBear

Ah, but they do use a relatively blunt blade for removing the skin from the flesh. Too sharp and it cuts straight through.

 

[Racers]

I have a Ikea ceramic steel that works well and in less destructive than a new coarse steel, and remarkable cheap.

http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/30167003/

Pete

Not available on line. I priced in a 360 mile round trip and it got a bit expensive.

I could buy one and post it to you, I get cheap postage through work.

Pete

 

[Sean Hellman]

Ceramic steels are not really suitable with this type of carving knife, or any steel. The 106 has a flat ground bevel of under 20 degrees. 10 degrees each bevel. The knife needs sharpening on flat stones or self adhesive abrasive papers/films. The whole bevel is abraded, which can make the process more of a hassle. There is no secondary bevel on these knives. I like stropping these knives on leather with a polishing compound, a very small mini micro bevel is formed over time which strengthens the edge, making it more durable. Autosol works well, but you will need a stone or 2 or self adhesive papers. 1000 grit stone is a good start and then something finer 3000 grit. The 106 is indeed an excellent carving knife and I have been using them for 25 years.

 

[Benchwayze]

I use the back edge of another knife as a steel. I get an edge with bite. Don't know about splitting the atom, but I can slice a tomato so you can read through the slices, and still have a skin all round them! :lol: