A
Anonymous
Guest
marcus":2zffrjd4 said:
Maybe, maybe not. I used wd40 on my 'cheapish', not dmt, stones and the plates de-bonded.
Some advice on sharpening please
- Thread starter Timmo
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Maybe, maybe not. I used wd40 on my 'cheapish', not dmt, stones and the plates de-bonded.
Paul Chapman
Established Member
MDF_HAKA":34lirzas said:Maybe, maybe not. I used wd40 on my 'cheapish', not dmt, stones and the plates de-bonded.
That must be something to do with the particular stone you have. Several of us on here - Woodbloke, Newt, Gidon, myself to name a few - use DMT stones with some form of oil and get no problems. I've been using oil on mine for many years.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
A
Anonymous
Guest
Paul Chapman":11zkahcg said:MDF_HAKA":11zkahcg said:Maybe, maybe not. I used wd40 on my 'cheapish', not dmt, stones and the plates de-bonded.
That must be something to do with the particular stone you have. Several of us on here - Woodbloke, Newt, Gidon, myself to name a few - use DMT stones with some form of oil and get no problems. I've been using oil on mine for many years.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Wish I could have afforded the DMT ones at the time but, got some cheapish ones off the bay. They still work though, just have to clamp the plate to the bench to use them. Will get some DMT ones when my waterstones wear out.
Nice one Timmo, now we've got some problems to address
If the diamond plate is flexing, put something good and solid under it, 2 or three layers of 18ml mdf works for me.
Any chisel under 6ml will be a problem with the eclipse guide, mainly due to issues clamping it between the sides, I use an extra clamp in my eclipse guide for small chisels, I haven't got my picture upload at the moment, so I'll try a bad description it's a piece of angle iron, with a piece of flat on top, the whole thing is held together with counter sunk bolts. The chisel is clamped in it, then the whole thing fitted into my eclipse guide.
Then you are right, the whole thing can wobble around on the wheel (great for putting a curve into a plane blade). This movement needs to be controlled by you, hold the guide in two hands, with (if possible) one finger from each hand pushing on the blade (as close to the end as you can). Now take a few strokes (just pulling) and look at the effect on the bevel, It's probably not level, adjust the pressure with your hands to allow the guide to tip a bit (BIG NOTE - only try to adjust the pressure - if you try to consciously adjust the tilt by a physical amount you will over do it). Take more strokes, keep checking!
Try to avoid putting loads of down force on the guide, if you do its bound to tilt and wobble anyway (and cause the diamond plate to flex?) use your fingers on the blade to apply pressure.
Have you flattened the back of the blade? It's a must!! if you want to trim air hairs.
I learnt my sharpening on a tool tuning course with David Charlesworth, there is no alternative to being shown by and getting feedback from someone who knows how to do already.
Hope this helps keep persevering, you are not alone struggling with this stuff, but one you get a technique and a system that suits worked out, its a great feeling. Especially when you see that bald patch on your arm
If the diamond plate is flexing, put something good and solid under it, 2 or three layers of 18ml mdf works for me.
Any chisel under 6ml will be a problem with the eclipse guide, mainly due to issues clamping it between the sides, I use an extra clamp in my eclipse guide for small chisels, I haven't got my picture upload at the moment, so I'll try a bad description
it's a piece of angle iron, with a piece of flat on top, the whole thing is held together with counter sunk bolts. The chisel is clamped in it, then the whole thing fitted into my eclipse guide. Then you are right, the whole thing can wobble around on the wheel (great for putting a curve into a plane blade). This movement needs to be controlled by you, hold the guide in two hands, with (if possible) one finger from each hand pushing on the blade (as close to the end as you can). Now take a few strokes (just pulling) and look at the effect on the bevel, It's probably not level, adjust the pressure with your hands to allow the guide to tip a bit (BIG NOTE - only try to adjust the pressure - if you try to consciously adjust the tilt by a physical amount you will over do it). Take more strokes, keep checking!
Try to avoid putting loads of down force on the guide, if you do its bound to tilt and wobble anyway (and cause the diamond plate to flex?) use your fingers on the blade to apply pressure.
Have you flattened the back of the blade? It's a must!! if you want to trim air hairs.
I learnt my sharpening on a tool tuning course with David Charlesworth, there is no alternative to being shown by and getting feedback from someone who knows how to do already.
Hope this helps
keep persevering, you are not alone struggling with this stuff, but one you get a technique and a system that suits worked out, its a great feeling. Especially when you see that bald patch on your arm Thanks Sean,
I understand all that you are saying..I even sometimes use a black felt tip to the end of the chisel so I can tell better how I am doing with my sharpening..
I know what you are saying about putting something hard / flat under my stone..Trouble is I have this thing: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... =1&jump=12
So it is a square section that is either hollow in the middle (or not very strong) and thereefore does not stay flat...I can't really complain as it was less thana tenner..So whilst I know what you are saying about trying to use what I have I think that I am really quite limited with this and I should get a decent, probably 2 sided stone...Do you see what I mean about how this 4 sided block is not really supportable..unless I try and seperate the diamond plates from the 4 sides and attach them to something flat?
Thanks for your patience
Timmo
I understand all that you are saying..I even sometimes use a black felt tip to the end of the chisel so I can tell better how I am doing with my sharpening..
I know what you are saying about putting something hard / flat under my stone..Trouble is I have this thing: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... =1&jump=12
So it is a square section that is either hollow in the middle (or not very strong) and thereefore does not stay flat...I can't really complain as it was less thana tenner..So whilst I know what you are saying about trying to use what I have I think that I am really quite limited with this and I should get a decent, probably 2 sided stone...Do you see what I mean about how this 4 sided block is not really supportable..unless I try and seperate the diamond plates from the 4 sides and attach them to something flat?
Thanks for your patience
Timmo
bugbear
Established Member
Timmo":1cfylaat said:
Have you got a model number or picture for your guide? I only know of one Stanley guide with a single wheel, and I suspect you havn't got that (it's old and weird).
BugBear
Hi BB,
Its like this Axminster one but made by Stanley:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0
I can't seem to find a link to the stanley one I have...Although now I am wondering whether it is Stanley at all...
Anyone agree that these aren't much cop or is it just me..
Cheers
Timmo
Its like this Axminster one but made by Stanley:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0
I can't seem to find a link to the stanley one I have...Although now I am wondering whether it is Stanley at all...
Anyone agree that these aren't much cop or is it just me..
Cheers
Timmo
DaveL
Established Member
Ah so you have an eclipse type honing guide, these are very common and with practise can be used to produce a good sharp edge.
David Charlesworth shows one in use in his books and has a mod to made them more useful.
David Charlesworth shows one in use in his books and has a mod to made them more useful.
