rogxwhit
Established Member
I'd call that careless. It's also wasteful. I'd prefer a good setup and paying attention to what's going on. I might also add that I work fast and am no namby pamby. It all centres round being attentive. ;-)
Snipe, what am I doing wrong?
- Thread starter brianc
- Start date
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charles79130
Member
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- 20 Oct 2022
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I have a Kity bestcombi 2000 and don’t get snipe but on my sip I do get and have not been able to cure,m so I thickness with the sip and and then remove the snipe on the surface planer on the Kity bit o a faff but it works but of course it doesn’t help people with only 1 machine
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Big plank, small planer - bound to be a bit of a lurch as the weight comes off the first roller.
Might be less snipe if cut to length first, and you'd get better "yield" i.e. not have to take off so much to get it flat.
If you can't adjust it away then finish with a hand plane?
Might be less snipe if cut to length first, and you'd get better "yield" i.e. not have to take off so much to get it flat.
If you can't adjust it away then finish with a hand plane?
Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)
Established Member
Before you go adjusting anything, are you getting snipe with a short board, say 450mm? If this is okay, then the issue is with thicknessing long boards. The Metabo has little support for holding a long board coplanar. The end drops, and is pushed into the blades.
The fix is quite simple - support the board as it runs through the thicknesser. The way to do this is lay a thickish section of melamine-coated MDF (screwed to ply would be better) through the bed, and long enough to stick out about 450mm each end. More out the exit end, if you wish. You still have full use of the thicknesser, just a slightly reduce thickness (there usually is more than needed anyway).
If this sorts of the snipe, it is evidence where the fault lies.
Leave the settings along until you try this.
Regards from Perth
Derek
The fix is quite simple - support the board as it runs through the thicknesser. The way to do this is lay a thickish section of melamine-coated MDF (screwed to ply would be better) through the bed, and long enough to stick out about 450mm each end. More out the exit end, if you wish. You still have full use of the thicknesser, just a slightly reduce thickness (there usually is more than needed anyway).
If this sorts of the snipe, it is evidence where the fault lies.
Leave the settings along until you try this.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I can’t remember where, but I saw a good tip for avoiding snipe - just fix battens either side of your board which extend a couple of inches beyond it at each end and which are just slightly thicker than your board (you can attach with hot glue or double sided tape or masking tape and superglue). Then these battens get the snipe and your board is protected.
rogxwhit
Established Member
Fine if you have all day. Some of us need to get on with the job!
No, actually not fine. It's'a bloody silly idea.
I would really appreciate your advice as to why this is a silly idea. We are not all production woodworkers - some have more time than money.
If its just a little bit into the ends then spec those are to be cut off when trimmed to length.
the great waldo
Established Member
I tend to pull up the board end as I feed it into the thicknesser and again support it as it comes out the other end.
Cheers
Andrew
Cheers
Andrew
Great video here by Steve Maskery, which I'll be following to the letter this weekend
Glad you found this video, I was going to recommend it. Might be worth looking at spring tension if you feel like you are already supporting the board sufficiently.
