small workshop build

[shim20]

hi all im bulding a 10x8 workshop to do some work from home so i can slowly build up a business well thats the idea anyway.
all make from 3x2 screwed together quick and easy, but making it in sections so will be easy to move it when i have to,but im after some advice, ive made the base but the patio was very unlevel, ive used bits of wood/plywood to help overcome this,(please note i have done this to all the bricks yet) is this ok?
heres a quick pic

sorry to be vauge but im busy bulding it at the moment, i will update as i do more
many thanks
ben

 

[Blister]

Is the base just a mock up ?

I don't think sitting it on individual bricks will be successful , not enough support for my liking

I have just put down a shed base for a 12 x 8 and have a 8" deep concrete base , nice a solid

see what other think , some will be along soon :wink:

 

[billybuntus]

If you want something solid and quick use large format flags (council flags) and level them then sit you base on top.

 

[tisdai]

Hi Ben

I agree with Blister you need a lot more suport than what you have, If you don't or Can't do a concrete base then just do some concrete pillars arround the outer section and a few placed in the inner part of the frame to help take the load.

HTH

CHeers

Dave

 

[shim20]

i guys, thanks for the replys, ok so you rekon i need some more suport under the floor, i can use cement or anything permanent
as i live in a rented house so has to go with me when i go, im going to add somemore noggins to the floor aswell, so i couldnt get away with just getting more bricks and doing it that way? im going to put 3/4 ply on the floor,
thanks
ben

 

[shim20]

some or the frames are together, ones on the left are done the go together to make on end, like said ease of transporting when it has to come down, i think when the feather edge is nailed on the front they should be stong enough? ones at the end are not finished yet,

any contructive criticism welcome
cheers
ben

 

[slimshady]

A couple of questions if I may .... You mention "patio not even",
Do you know what depth of hardcore (if any) is under the slabs ? , is the patio not even because of no support.!
Is shed same size or larger than patio ? What type of business are you considering ?
If general DIY type stuff then like others have suggested, more Council type (2" thick) slabs if required to extend the patio.
If the existing slabs are thin then some Council slabs on top would spread the load better than just a brick.
In the same situation .... I would have levelled the patio with more council slabs (on spot mortar where neccessary to make all same level) placed where needed. Then used lots of bricks to support the framework all over.
If in doubt a search of the far too many (but always worth a look) builds would give you all the pointers you need.
Alex.

 

[shim20]

A couple of questions if I may .... You mention "patio not even",
Do you know what depth of hardcore (if any) is under the slabs ? , is the patio not even because of no support.!
Is shed same size or larger than patio ? What type of business are you considering ?
If general DIY type stuff then like others have suggested, more Council type (2" thick) slabs if required to extend the patio.
If the existing slabs are thin then some Council slabs on top would spread the load better than just a brick.
In the same situation .... I would have levelled the patio with more council slabs (on spot mortar where neccessary to make all same level) placed where needed. Then used lots of bricks to support the framework all over.
If in doubt a search of the far too many (but always worth a look) builds would give you all the pointers you need.
Alex.

the patio has been laid wet i think, with motar, it seems stable just not level :? , it goes on the area of the patio yes, did think about taking it up and redoing it level but its not my patio lol, i would use the council slabs and motar were needed, but as said what i do cant be permanant,
thanks for the input

 

[Jensmith]

If you're going to be putting any heavy machinery in there - think about what stress is going to be put on your floor. I really do think you need some more support under there. Either that or you could spread the load inside the shed with a bigger plank to go over a few of your struts.

I can just see the stresses put on the small bricks and it sagging. Even flags laid on top of your patio would probably help. You could maybe spot mortar which might clean up after? Not sure..

At the very least using a continuous line of bricks where ever your main joists lie would be better - at least the frame is then on something fairly soild.

 

[speed]

imo
as it only temp and at 8x10' it not exacaly big enough for tonnes of heavy machinery i would scribe some 3x2's level running the opposite way to your joists at 2' centres, treat it with preserver and sit the floor on it,

 

[Lons]

Another option which could be moved if you dismantle the shed is railway sleepers. you can get them in 8ft lengths so half a dozen would give you 2 ft centres. they will last for donkeys years and the shed would never move. Could always be used for raised beds in the future or sold on as there is a regular demand.
Often used to support containers with great effect.

Bob

 

[woodbloke]

If you want something solid and quick use large format flags (council flags) and level them then sit you base on top.

I did this for mine, which is 20'x12' and used around 48 in all - Rob

 

[shim20]

ts not going to have really heavy things in there, a bench which will be near the outside anyway, a kity k5, a morticer, and maybe a small saw bench and band saw, the sleeper idea sounds good, thanks for the ideas and input, i will have to decide what to do....

 

[bosshogg]

Hi Ben,

All of the advice give so far has been good, and I think you have grabbed the essence of the problem OK. You say you feel the patio has been laid well but is a bit uneven, one light weight (relatively) way you could go is to get some concrete lintels from a local supplier, the nearest width of the shed floor (about 2.4m should be standard size at any of your local suppliers), err on the longer side so that you support the base fully, lay these on some sand levelling lengthwise across and diagonally, if ness. just put or take away sand as required. Once you have this level lay the base back down in position but on the lintels, 5no. should do, one exactly in line with each end and the other 3no. equally spaced. Because the patio will probably not have a dpc under it put some dpc on each lintel. I can see you have built the base well enough so the support given will be equal to your use I would say, plus it's all removable for the future...bosshogg

Many a mickle macs a muckle

(hammer)

 

[OLD]

I think your arrangement is strong enough just think about a car supported by 4 stands, no problem.
But if we get another bad freezing winter and the ground heaves and does not drop back evenly you could have problems trying to re level
if that is ok go ahead.

 

[shim20]

but surley that part of the ground where the sheds on will be mostly protected by the frost, im on a budget a tight one :lol: , so i might just get another 50 paviers and support it everywhere, i was jumping up and down on it earlier, and seemed solid as it was, i think it will be ok will be ok with ore paviers around the outside and the middle, nothing mega heavy is going to be in there.....

 

[Lons]

Hi Shim20

I think the bottom line really is that you're going to do the very minimum you feel you can get away with - nothing wrong with that as it's your decision but the things to remember are that if the shed is going to give you problems then it will almost certainly be one of two areas:
1). The roof - easy to get at and put right
2). The floor and / or supporting timbers. This is where and damp whether rising or surface, splashing water will cause damage or where an inadequate found will sink or heave over time. Might seem perfectly sound now but even reasonably well laid patios sink and move under their own weight over a period of time. Plant roots, clay drying or swelling all contribute and the shed itself will be fairly heavy.
Probems like these are almost impossible to rectify properly without dismantling the shed.

My view, is that the base should be overspecced not skimped for those reasons and personally I would not waste my own time building something with any possibility of suspect founds.

Just my twopennerth - you pays your money and takes your choice. If you get it wrong, you might have to work on a slope.. :lol: :lol:

cheers

Bob

 

[La Gib]

This may go against some of the other comments on this thread but here is my opinion

Its a shed really. The thousands of sheds that are used up and down the country are made of light weight timbers and they last for years and years. Most hobby rated tools aren't too heavy and if you can walk on the 3 x 2 floor without too much bounce it's a good start. Just know your limitations. Althiough they will be dictated by available floor space anyway. Don't buy heavy heavy machines

I did a similar thing on a larger scale 16ft x 11ft shed 4" x 2" frame for the base. It was on slightly uneven ground with about 2" hardcore on there I put breeze blocks at regular intervals and the cut shims from treated timber to make up for the uneven ground. Remember the floor structure is a raft so spread the weight

It hasn't budged an inch even with a Axminster combination machine right in the middle of the floor and that weighs around 350kgs.

As long as the floor has support at regular intervals where is it gonna go too.

In my other shed which has been built on slopping ground there is six breeze block pillars covering an area 13ft x 10ft. It slopes about 18inches from front to back so the back pillars are of three breeze blocks stacked on top of each other no cement between them but set on a level base. Frame of 8" x 2" on top of that. Just to make matters even more complicated I have a 6ft x 2ft x 2ft fish tank in there weighs loads. Still no movement in ten years.

It's only a shed after all and being made of wood wil grone and flex as required.

I built the extension on my own house, the quality of construction was agreed upon and overseen the local Building Regulations. But that is a different situation and attention to regulations and structual stresses is of absolute importance.

Cheers, happy woodworking in your new workshop Alan

 

[shim20]

thanks alan, yes like you say the amount of sheds that are around but alot worse than this and last for years till they rot away, im going to go with what ive done as it feels solid to me, if it dosent work out its my fault live and learn, but thanks everyone for the input, more updates in a few days i hope
cheers
ben