Jacob
What goes around comes around.
In case of confusion: different plane with a much lower bed angle, which makes it bevel up. Nice little plane looks a lot better than the dreaded 75. Pricier too
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Small Plane, Interesting day
- Thread starter Roberto Flintofski
- Start date
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billw
The Tattooed One
So what's the verdict on this plane? Get a 90 if you need a bullnose, or a 92/93 shoulder plane because you'll be able to use that most of the time anyway?
Hmmm, it doesn't look like a low-angle bed to me. I've just spent 15 minutes trying to find out what the bed angle of a 75 is, but all sources I consulted remain stolidly silent on that point. Could someone with a 75 & a protractor of some kind measure the bed angle? It would be a very handy parameter on which to base any rational advice on which way the blade should be.
Roberto, looking at your first lot of pics, it seems to me you have a pretty steep bevel on that blade, so clearance may have been the issue when you had it bevel-down. A good rule of thumb is to have at least 10 degrees of clearance. If the bed is 45 degrees and your sharpening bevel ends up at 30, you have 15* of clearance, which is adequate, but if the bed is x* lower than 45, the clearance angle will be less by that amount.
In your pic with he blade bevel up, it just doesn't look right - if your bed is 45 and your sharpening angle is ~30 you now have a cutting angle of 70*. That is not very practical on a larger plane, the cutting resistance would be excessive. On a little thing like the 75, just knocking corners off, cutting resistance won't be such an issue.
Lastly, bull-nosed planes are always tricky things to use. They are very sensitive to pressure over the nose, you can alter depth of cut quite markedly by pressing on the front of the plane. They are also very awkward to start cleanly from an edge, you just don't have enough surface area on the toe to register it & begin the cut properly. I would suggest any small plane with a toe 1/4-1/3rd of the overall sole length would be much better for your stated purpose than the 75 or any other bull-nosed plane - the Stanley 100 or any of it's multitude of clones make very handy one-handers, ideal for knocking sharp corners off....
Cheers,
Ian
Roberto, looking at your first lot of pics, it seems to me you have a pretty steep bevel on that blade, so clearance may have been the issue when you had it bevel-down. A good rule of thumb is to have at least 10 degrees of clearance. If the bed is 45 degrees and your sharpening bevel ends up at 30, you have 15* of clearance, which is adequate, but if the bed is x* lower than 45, the clearance angle will be less by that amount.
In your pic with he blade bevel up, it just doesn't look right - if your bed is 45 and your sharpening angle is ~30 you now have a cutting angle of 70*. That is not very practical on a larger plane, the cutting resistance would be excessive. On a little thing like the 75, just knocking corners off, cutting resistance won't be such an issue.
Lastly, bull-nosed planes are always tricky things to use. They are very sensitive to pressure over the nose, you can alter depth of cut quite markedly by pressing on the front of the plane. They are also very awkward to start cleanly from an edge, you just don't have enough surface area on the toe to register it & begin the cut properly. I would suggest any small plane with a toe 1/4-1/3rd of the overall sole length would be much better for your stated purpose than the 75 or any other bull-nosed plane - the Stanley 100 or any of it's multitude of clones make very handy one-handers, ideal for knocking sharp corners off....
Cheers,
Ian
Nigel Burden
Established Member
I’ve noticed a couple of occasions recently when Paul posts a video a day or two after a discussion on the subject here. Coincidence?
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Bed angle - 75 is 40º. Mine is anyway. Sellers looks half that or less which would give a cutting angle of 50º with a 30º honed blade
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Good idea! He might as well answer questions other people are asking. Rebate Plane No 2—The Bullnose Plane
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Just measured mine the bed is 40 degrees. I do have a very shallow primary bevel of 25 degrees on the blade with a secondary bevel a few more degrees up. It is bevel down.
Got a 90j here and when doing fittings its handy, but then anything is handy. Elongating a rebate, knocking off edges, in fact anything.
OK, not its exact job, but many fitting and inbuilt cabinets, its a case of whatever works, or whatever can get in to tight spaces and its width I've found is very good for that.
A chisel plane would also be handy,but it can be too wide, or a shoulder, but again each are 'specialist' but if it works for you, then add it to the arsenal.
One job i found it useful for was taking the years of paint off architrave edges,both by running it flat on the wall for the outside edge, and for the slight return on the door thingymabobbities.
OK, not its exact job, but many fitting and inbuilt cabinets, its a case of whatever works, or whatever can get in to tight spaces and its width I've found is very good for that.
A chisel plane would also be handy,but it can be too wide, or a shoulder, but again each are 'specialist' but if it works for you, then add it to the arsenal.
One job i found it useful for was taking the years of paint off architrave edges,both by running it flat on the wall for the outside edge, and for the slight return on the door thingymabobbities.
Nigel Burden
Established Member
Yours looks like an American model, and older than my English one. I don't think that the blade on mine, although original, was much good. I could certainly not get shavings like that.
Nigel.
I'm pretty sure this one was in a tool box belonging to my grandfather. A lot of my tools are from my grandfather, great grandfather and great great grandfather. They were all carpenter/cabinetmakers in the UK. It's possible it is an American model but I would have though more likely English. I did spend six years in Canada so it might have come into my possession there, though it isn't a plane I would have bought through choice
That shaving was a soft bit of pine so easy to work. Here is one from oak
And end grain ;-)
Nigel Burden
Established Member
Paul, your blade has Stanley New Britain Conn. U S A stamped at the top, and looks much thicker than mine. There is no way that mine would ever take shavings like that. Perhaps the newer English versions were very cheaply made using inferior materials.
Nigel.
Nigel.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
You could be right and is often repeated but I strongly feel that this is workmen blaming the tools!
By the time people have worked their way through sharpening alternatives, polished everything, practiced using the tool, swapped a blade or two, they will have simply got better at it and would have done just as well with the original blade.
I don't think I've ever had defective blade, except where they've been nibbled and over-heated on a bench grinder. Even that is remediable if you just grind off a bit more, but carefully.
Nigel Burden
Established Member
Jacob, I am blaming the tool in this instance.
I've had no problems with any of my planes other than this one and a small coffin smoother with an unmarked blade which, once replaced worked well. The blade on my 75 is thin. It will sharpen up ok but tends to chatter if the cut is set only the tiniest bit thick, it just seems hopeless. The cap iron? doesn't extend far enough down the blade to lock the lower end of the blade down properly, which doesn't help the chatter. Paul Barnard's is much more substantial. My Record 076, which is definitely older is more substantial, and a much better plane.
Nigel.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Well as I said you could be right. Later Stanleys definitely deteriorated.
Presumably Record just stopped without letting things slide first. Record 076 is a much better plane, more expensive and very different from the 75.
Lot of 75s about, I guess because they were the cheapest plane on the market and novice buyers wouldn't know it was a peculiar and specialised plane with limited use. Thats why I bought one myself and it was years before I found a use for it!
That may be a thinner iron. I bought one of those at one point here (someone later gave me a bullnose slater plane, so that was the end of the 75) and it was a little later and had a very thin iron.
They have a reputation here as being a plane that's hard to get right, but I don't think it's so much a quality issue with the plane, it's just the design using a cast detachable nose that creates a very short front sole.
They have a reputation here as being a plane that's hard to get right, but I don't think it's so much a quality issue with the plane, it's just the design using a cast detachable nose that creates a very short front sole.
Very good point. I didn't read that
I must have stolen it in Canada.I just put the callipers on the blade and it is 1/16" thick
I’ve had one of these Stanley planes for about 25 years, but have used it only on the odd occasion. The blade should be bevel down, and when it’s set right it can produce fine shavings. The major problem with it lies in setting the throat. This is a nightmare because the screw governing the throat opening and closing is virtually impossible to access and thus tighten by reason of the blade neck extending over the screw head. Get the throat wrong, and the plane is unusable. I cut the blade neck shorter to allow a driver to be used, and that helped a bit, but it was still hit and miss.
I much prefer my Record 311.
I much prefer my Record 311.
Roberto Flintofski
Established Member
Could the screw be replaced with a bolt with washer underneath then it could be done with a small spanner?
Nigel Burden
Established Member
And someone is selling a 90J on ebay for £255.
RARE, STANLEY USA 90J BULLNOSE PLANE - MADE IN USA | eBay
Nigel.
RARE, STANLEY USA 90J BULLNOSE PLANE - MADE IN USA | eBay
Nigel.
