Sliding Wardrobes

[jasonB]

These are a few pics of a wardrobe I finished a while ago and have just got round to uploading. The Client wanted something similar to these Hulsta sliders but painted and floor to ceiling

Carcases are 18mm maple effect MFC (8mm backs), draws solid maple with white laminate glass fronts and all the painted bits are good old MR MDF. Doors run on Henderson's "Husky100" runners as they are not light!!

JAson

 

[joiner_sim]

Very nice work, how did you joint the drawers?

 

[Doctor]

nice interiors (and exteriors)

 

[Chems]

Really nice, love the glass in the drawers.

 

[eoinsgaff]

Yeah, I have to agree, the glass looks the business. I think the opaque green colour is particularly interesting in its context here.

Lovely work

 

[jasonB]

Very nice work, how did you joint the drawers?

Front frame is M&T construction, back to side joints are standard dovetails and the fronts are joined to the side with three No 0 biscuits as well as gluing the base in to a groove.

Jason

 

[cambournepete]

They look great and perfect for my needs...

How do you join the fixed shelves to the sides - biscuits?
Did you make the doors yourself?
Where did you source the runners (and doors or mirrors depending)?

 

[jasonB]

Fixed shelves are treated like the top and bottom, just narrower. They are biscuited and carcase screwed.

Doors I made from three layers of 12mm MR MDF, the front being 10mm wider than the others to form a rebate, The middle layer is cut as one piece to give strength at the corners, edges lipped in sapele and there are some hardwood blocks let into the top to take the door gear. I used the same construction on this pocket door, its a quick way to make a door that will remain stable and not move or warp.

Runners came direct from Hendersons I used two sets of "Husky 100" gear

Mirror (and draw glass) came from my usual glaziers and has a safety film on the back, got him to deliver it and just dropped it into the painted doors, fitted a glazing bead at the back and then rehung the doors.

Jason

 

[Dibs-h]

Doors I made from three layers of 12mm MR MDF, the front being 10mm wider than the others to form a rebate, The middle layer is cut as one piece to give strength at the corners, edges lipped in sapele and there are some hardwood blocks let into the top to take the door gear.

Jason

Sorry to sound dense Jason (I blame the painkillers) - I only count 2 layers of MRMDF - where's the 3rd?

Cheers

Dibs

 

[jasonB]

There is another on the back, same width as the central sheets styles & rails. giving a 36mm thick door.

Jason

 

[OPJ]

Outstanding. =D>

 

[Dibs-h]

There is another on the back, same width as the central sheets styles & rails. giving a 36mm thick door.

Jason

Cool - thanks. Nice work!!

Certainly something to aspire to.

 

[The Bear]

Jason

Can I ask why you went for MFC for the inside rather than veneered MDF?

Mark

 

[jasonB]

Cost.

J

 

[TEO]

Very nice Jason, looks great.
T

 

[ro]

Wow, Beautiful work!

 

[NewtoWood]

Very nice work.

On the second picture you show the divided half - did you lip the boards with solid wood like a face frame?

 

[jasonB]

No they are all finished with matching iron on edging with the exception of teh shelf directly above the draws which is done in solid maple

Jason