Skew Mastery

[Bodrighy]

This is the profile I use. I find that catches are far less frequent and beads are much easier as only a tiny part of the edge is curtting at any given moment. I use the bottom corner to do beads not the long point. You can also do shallow coves with it. I have found it useful as well in doing the outside curve of bowls where there is a lot of tear out and also for parting off small spindle work. Like Duncan I find I rarely if ever catch on the small spindle work such as crochet hooks and bobbins (haven't tried pens.....yet) and this helps get used to the tool.

I was shown this at our club by a pro but think it might be a Dave El;lesworth refinement

 

[wizer]

I turned some dowels the other day for the pram that I made and used the skew only, from square. Not one catch. It's a start.

 

[OldWood]

Continuing on about the observation of the high tool rest with the skew, I stole a couple of minutes just now to go and try that. I've bit of basic pine on the lathe 400m x 40mm dia. and I did a simple plane along it with the rest level with the top and was impressed by the control, thinness of the cut and surprisingly for pine, the quality of the finish - nice and shiny.

Rob

 

[lurker]

This is the profile I use. I find that catches are far less frequent and beads are much easier as only a tiny part of the edge is curtting at any given moment. I use the bottom corner to do beads not the long point. You can also do shallow coves with it. I have found it useful as well in doing the outside curve of bowls where there is a lot of tear out and also for parting off small spindle work. Like Duncan I find I rarely if ever catch on the small spindle work such as crochet hooks and bobbins (haven't tried pens.....yet) and this helps get used to the tool.

I was shown this at our club by a pro but think it might be a Dave El;lesworth refinement

I use a very similar profile. Was in a mag article called "mastering the skew" I forget who by, but a famouus name.

One observation: got on fine with this for ages & then catch after catch.
I finally realise that every time I took it back to the wheel for a touch up, I was slowly transforming the bevel from concave to convex. I reground with a nice concave bevel & all is well again.

 

[big soft moose]

I use a very similar profile. Was in a mag article called "mastering the skew" I forget who by, but a famouus name.

.

dave regester

 

[CHJ]

Seeing the reference to concave/convex bevel on a skew.

I must admit all my skews are ground with a concave or flat bevel, I note in Stu's video on honing in relation to his Eli Avisera skew Stu grinds and hones his skews with a pronounced convex bevel.

Never tried this myself, how do you folks grind your skew bevels?
Videos:
Honing
Initial Sharpening

 

[Bodrighy]

Flat well concave actually but with a curve. Tried the Eli Aversera way but couldn't get on with it, I found it hard to use .

Pete

 

[wizer]

My large skew is sharpened like Stu/Eli, Jimmy Clewes also does it like that. I've had about the same luck with both ways of sharpening TBH.

 

[DeepBlue]

I came across this the other day:

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/0 ... arp-tools/

In it the guy advocates sharpening a concave bevel, then "honing" on a 320 grit waterstone, does anyone else use this method, or do you just use it straight from the grinder?

 

[Lightweeder]

I finally realise that every time I took it back to the wheel for a touch up, I was slowly transforming the bevel from concave to convex. I reground with a nice concave bevel & all is well again.

Sorry to be dense but how do you change the bevel :?: I can understand changing the angle or the depth of the bevel, and shaving off the sharp corners, but how can you change the bevel itself? Isn't it always going to be flat, or have I misunderstood :?: :?

LW

 

[Jonzjob]

Lightw, I don't think that the question is dense at all.

The bevel, in my opinion, is the angle of the grind and with a grinding wheel you have got to finish with a concave grind due to the radius of the wheel. As you then hone the ground face on a flat stone you will get rid of the concave and because of the sweep of the tool over the flat stone by human hand you will almost certainly finish up with a convex face.

I have just finished watching the video above and it showed me a load of things to be 'improved' by me! Very interesting and thank you Deepblue for posting it. I must admit that I was surprised to se the lack of gaurds on te grinder, but it was made clear in the end.

I have a wheel dresser that is 3 wheels on a metal handle and it doesn't seem half as gentile as his diamond dresser, but it certainly dresses and cleans the wheel!

 

[CHJ]

.... the guy advocates sharpening a concave bevel, then "honing" on a 320 grit waterstone, does anyone else use this method,

I sharpen a concave bevel to the wheels radius, then dress on a fine diamond 'stone' (flattening the cutting edge and heal of the bevel) then burnish on a MDF wheel.
To sharpen I pass the skew across the diamond a couple of times and burnish.
Eventually the bevels become a flat surface across the whole face.

Can't bring myself to produce a convex bevel, seems to me there would be little or no bevel depth to rub/align on a spindle surface.