SIP Bandsaw - whats the opinion on this...

[Lee J]

Looking to spend some dosh on a new bandsaw and I am dabbling around the Ebay market for a decent 2nd hand one.

I aim to be cutting no more than 3" x 3" pine and maybe some 2 x 2 mahogany or oak.

What do you think of this SIP bandsaw...

SIP 01484 (which I can get 2nd hand for around £170)

Powerful 370w motor
Magnetic NVR switch
Quick Lock Rip Fence and Cross Cut mitre guide included
Fully adjustable blade tensioning and tracking
Large 45º tilting table,
Dust extraction facility
Open door auto power shut down
Rack and pinion rise and fall guides
Sturdy curved doors
Blade tension guide
Cast iron table
Max width cut - 245mm
Blade length - 1712mm
Max cutting height - 100mm

Anyone any experience of this machine?

 

[Eric The Viking]

I've got the SIP one that used to be OPJ's I think it's the 12" version.

Generally I like it, with a couple of reservations:

1. I needed the adjustability of the bottom wheel axle. Refer to Steve M's DVDs: there should be four bolts (north south east west) allowing you to tune up the bottom wheel for tracking. You will need to set these up, and more recent machines don't all seem to have the adjustment (dunno about SIP specifically).

2. The frame isn't quite straight. It was welded-up that way originally -- it probably wouldn't lie flat if you were able to lay it on its side (if you see what I mean). I can get it to track nicely (Ian's blades from Tuff Saws), but the blade isn't quite perpendicular front-back. This isn't really an issue.

3. The dust extraction as fitted is rubbish ("They're all like that, sir."), but Olly did a good mod to it (archived on the forum somewhere), that works well, using a hi-tech plastic plumbing elbow.

4. It's quite willing with a good blade. Olly worked it harder than I have, so is better placed to comment. So far, I've never needed to go to a slower speed for resawing. The most I've cut is 6" Idigbo, but I think it would do better than that if asked nicely.

5. The fence isn't wonderful, as supplied, but they're all like that. Olly made an aux fence (which I use ), and I stop any tendency to move just by putting a clamp onto the table, just behind the far end.

6. Quality of cut can be brilliant, down to setup (tracking and getting the guides just right), blade tension and Ian's blades.

It's my first bandsaw, but I really do like it.

Hope that helps,

E.

 

[Ateallthepies]

I also have the 12" SIP bandsaw as shown here...

Apart from the fence lever breaking I have found it a good machine, but also this is my first bandsaw so I'm no expert.

I have used this for over 5 years and now have bought the Kreg fence to be able to re-saw with it whereas before I used it for mainly shaping longbows and ripping laminations out of hardwoods.

Steve.

 

[Lee J]

thanks guys. So would this be a good purchase then and do you think it'll cope with the demands ?

 

[Ateallthepies]

If it were me I would go for something with a little more power. I think without looking that mine is about 800 Watt and while it has never struggled to cut what I have put through it, I wouldn't want any less power and then have to upgrade if needed or bigger stock?

Would like to hear other peoples opinion on this?

Steve.

 

[OPJ]

I can't disagree with anything that Erik has said.

For your first bandsaw, these really do represent very good value for money. From memory, I bought mine from West Skelton Services through eBay and, at the time (2006), it cost just over £200 including delivery. It's probably gone up in price a bit since, though...

Before I sold it, I was able to run 5/8in wide thin-kerf blades on it without any trouble. I was even able to run a ¾in Supertuff blade on it without any bother!! However, most of my work was done using a series of ½in blades, which are fine for ripping and general bandsawing. I also found that 3/8in x 6tpi was a good blade for general curve cutting and shaped work.

One thing that did disappoint me was the quality of the tensioning knob. As they're only plastic, I went through two of them in the time that I had the saw (less than four-years) and there's also a slight issue where the blade guide's vertical travel isn't perfectly parallel with the blade - this is an issue with many modern saws, or so it seems. But, it is easily fixed by raising the guard and then adjusting the guides slightly before re-starting the saw.

On the guides - I found that many of them had begun to seize up after a couple of years' use so, I opted to replace them with rubber-sealed bearings from SimplyBearings.co.uk and this seemed to resolve that issue.