Silverline 6lb log splitting maul review

[Peri]

I like guineafowl's point of view. I've just bought a ' cheap as chips' Silverline axe online. I expect to do some work on the head and haft at that price so we'll see if it turns out to be a pig or a prince. I'd also be prepared to change the head for a vintage Brades st the price I've paid.

I'd replace the head, and probably the handle.

 

[stuart little]

Yes as others have pointed out "maul" is not supposed to be sharp. It's for splitting, not cutting. If it was sharp you'd call it an "axe". If too sharp, in theory the maul would follow its own cut rather than the grain.
Varnished is normal for hickory handles. If not you'd be complaining about them looking a bit scruffy etc. as they pick up marks and may get handled before you buy them. If wet wear rigger gloves - don't blame the tool for the rain!
I've been using a froe for splitting, hitting it with a lump hammer. Works really well but it depends on what you are working on.
I'm all for cheapo tools - don't knock em! I bought a cheapo Silverline floor board cramp which looks like tat but works really well.
You can't go wrong with a cheapo chisel if you sharpen it, but you might prefer a posher one.
Sometimes people get sniffy about cheap tools but often they simply don't know how to use them.

When I had an open fire I bought a Silverline maul which came 'ready-to-split' & did it's job. Perhaps I got THE good one.

 

[Jacob]

I've been splitting some sawn short lengths of some very large old beams about 10x15", with a froe and lump hammer. Looks like spruce - beautiful straight grain looks just like classical guitar front.
What I just realised is that if you split them along the radius it's much easier. 90º to the growth rings.
It's obvious why - all the knots are also radial, growing from centre outwards, so they don't hold the pieces together, which they may do if you split on any other line.
Never thought of this before and wonder if it's true of all timbers?