Shortening timber

[Paul Ross]

Hi, I'm a novice here, trying to build some racking for a new shed. One problem I keep coming up with is finding that a piece of wood is slightly too long and having to trim the end. I have very limited equipment, mostly hand tools. What is the best way to trim 2 or 3mm off the end of a piece of 45X45mm? I've tried a saw but shaving off such a tiny bit it's impossible to keep the saw in line. A plane just doesn't seem to work (but I only have one, maybe it's the wrong type). The best method I've found is a rasp then sandpaper but that is a very slow process. Any suggestions much appreciated.

 

[akirk]

chop saw / mitre saw

doesn't have to be expensive: this one at screwfix is reduced to £70 currently: Evolution R210CMS 210mm Electric Single-Bevel Multi material Compound Mitre Saw 220-240V - Screwfix
but it is transformational for this type of work - and it is a core tool for everyone to have - you will start to look for things to cut up!

 

[Bingy man]

Simply put a decent and accurate mitre saw/ chop saw . Depends on your budget and the maximum sized timber you are likely to work with but that’s probably the easiest power tool to get to grips with. With a good miter saw you can trim the thinnest amount from any given length.

 

[Agent_zed]

Not much use after the fact but measuring more accurately before cutting so you don't have to trim is always the best way. But when that doesn't work....

for a 45x45mm piece of wood you could use a really sharp chisel. I'd work from the 4 corners to the centre so you don't break out the opposite side. With a proper sharp chisel you should be able to push it by hand and take off a mm or so easily. Just don't ask how best to sharpen your chisel unless you want a lot of replies. Just go on youtube and look at a few sharpening videos and use what you have available.

Failing that if you are really stuck you could probably do it with a stanley knife working around each side, taking a little at a time. Just wear gloves and watch where the blade goes if it were to slip. Whenever i use a stanley knife I somehow seem to get a new scar no matter how careful i am?!

 

[recipio]

Is that 45 mm wide x 45 deep . ? If it's 45mm long you have a small cube and would be dangerous on a chop saw. For standard trimming of a few mm however nothing beats a table saw or chop saw for accuracy. Ideally small items should be clamped down for cutting. As a last resort a disc sander will take off a few mm but is not quite as accurate as a saw.

 

[akirk]

I assumed that the end profile is 45mm x 45mm but that the wood is presumably longer - agree that if the wood is very short then it might be dangerous, but if building racking, I assume it is longer - and do clamp it down!

 

[TRITON]

.Belt sander ?.

Alternatively, and for quickness as long as you arent expecting it to be showroom quality finish - Take a hammer and bash the end of the baton with it. This will make it shorter. Not ideal, not neat but it does actually work.
Used to use this 'technique' when fitting timber blocks into the recess of RSJ's ,you know for having something to screw into when over cladding it with ply or gyproc. If you cut it exactly over time the timber shrinks and the block loses its tight fit, so it needed to be so tight you have to seriously bash it in and shortening it by bashing the end means it stays tight even after drying out.

 

[Adam W.]

It's a square section of what used to be called 2"x2".

Make a simple shooting board and trim the section off with your plane. You have the tools already for that.

You could also go to B&Q and get a wooden mitre box and clamp it in that so that it doesn't move.

Both very cheap and cheerful but probably a bit too analogue for most.

 

[Just4Fun]

What hand saw have you tried? I would want to use a saw with a thin kerf and a high tooth count.

 

[John Brown]

It's a square section of what used to be called 2"x2".

Make a simple shooting board and trim the section off with your plane. You have the tools already for that.

You could also go to B&Q and get a wooden mitre box and clamp it in that so that it doesn't move.

Both very cheap and cheerful but probably a bit too analogue for most.

Agree on mitre box!

 

[artie]

I'd say the most cost effective solution is one of these.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32572658...V360Q9YZkPV5d0kbpamMoUEl6CEU|tkp:BFBMxPnRkK1i
That's if you are not planning on mass production.

How did you cut the wood in the first place?

 

[TRITON]

How did you cut the wood in the first place?

Badly it seems

Only joshing.

 

[thetyreman]

you could try using a big ish block of wood held down with a clamp as a guide for the handsaw to rest on, it must be dead square though, with hand sawing practise makes perfect.

 

[Paul Ross]

Thank you all for your suggestions. Just to clarify, I pre cut lengths of 2" X 2" carcassing timber for shelving but the imperfections of the wood and irregularities of walls resulted in some pieces needing a tweak. I think the best/easiest solutions are a mitre box and clamp, shooting board or a mitre saw. I'll try the first 2 for a start as both seem like useful things to have around and I like the idea of learning the traditional skills first, no doubt I'll end up with a mitre saw one day. Thanks again.

 

[Jameshow]

You can cut 2mm off a piece of timber it takes practice....

 

[Doug71]

You can cut 2mm off a piece of timber it takes practice....

Get yourself a sharp saw (even better if it's one of those fine toothed Japanese style things) and use the tip of your thumb on the hand you are holding the wood with as a stop/guide, it will be second nature in no time.

 

[Windows]

I would think most people would have trouble freehand removing an amount that is less than the kerf of the saw they’re using and it becomes harder if you’re trying to remove less than half of the saw’s kerf. But you could, for example, remove 2mm with a Japanese saw like a ryoba if you’re careful to follow the line and you’ve had some practice cutting straight. Japanese saws tend to have small kerfs.

Alternatively you could put some support around your workpiece 2mm from the end and use a flush cutting saw to take 2mm off the end.

Workshop Heaven has a range of Gyokucho Japanese saws if that’s of interest.

 

[Paul Ross]

I'll get some offcuts and practice!

 

[ColinDeVelen]

Butt the end up to a larger piece, use that as a guide. Mount it to a longer piece that you can use to reference the longer side of the stock. Stick on some shim if you need to move the saw out a little bit. As long as it's flat and square, and square to the longer piece, you will start a flat and square cut on a potentially less flat and square end.

 

[Jacob]

Hi, I'm a novice here, trying to build some racking for a new shed. One problem I keep coming up with is finding that a piece of wood is slightly too long and having to trim the end. I have very limited equipment, mostly hand tools. What is the best way to trim 2 or 3mm off the end of a piece of 45X45mm? I've tried a saw but shaving off such a tiny bit it's impossible to keep the saw in line. A plane just doesn't seem to work (but I only have one, maybe it's the wrong type). The best method I've found is a rasp then sandpaper but that is a very slow process. Any suggestions much appreciated.

If it's just racking in a shed do you really need to be 2mm precise? Just saw off 4mm - who is going to notice?
If you can't manage to saw off 4mm you just need more practice or a sharper saw..