Shop Cart Power Extensions.... Please help!

[evansmike881]

Good Morning,

I hope everyone is well!

I am very new to this wonderful world of woodwork, and due to the lack of space I have for a cool shop, I require to have all of my tools on there own wheeled stand, so they are easily moved.

I have started the design of the first of these stands (for my scroll saw) and realised I would like an extension on the stand itself. Essentially the stand would have a plug socket on it to plug my tools into, which would be wired to a fancy Start/Stop switch on the front of the stand this would then be wired to a long power lead with a plug on the end to plug into the wall socket.... I hope this makes sense.

I have found this switch (eBay item number: 263050574972) although it only has two inputs and two outputs, I believe it is missing the earth.....

How would I wire this up safely?

Alternatively could I be pointed in the direction of one of these start/stop switches that has an earth connection also?

Thanks in advance for any help

Newbie
Mike

 

[Sideways]

The earth wire comes from your extension cable straight to the earth terminal on the back of your new double (hint !) socket, the live and neutral wires go via the switch.
I haven't looked up your ebay switch but axminster sell a "NVR" switch with a big red flappy "stop" paddle that makes it easier to press the off button. They are versatile and have a high enough rating for most smaller machinery. Model is Kedu KJD17B.

 

[porker]

Hi Mike,
The switch you linked to has a rating of 4A meaning that the max total load you could put on this is 230V x 4A = 920W. You would then need to put a 3A fuse for protection. I would go for a higher rated switch. As Sideways mentions, Axminster keep a selection of these rated at 15A but obviously more money. HTH

 

[evansmike881]

Thanks Both, much appreciated.

Just to make sure I understand this perfectly, I have attached a crude diagram of what I believe you mean... does this look right?

Also if I pick - the 'KEDU KJD17B NVR Switch 230V 1ph' this would be the correct rated switch to just wire up as shown in the diagram without need for any additional electrical hardware, right?

Thanks Again
Mike

 

[porker]

Yes, that will work and you can have a 13A fuse in the plug.

 

[Sideways]

You've understood it perfectly
My two other tips would be to use a stronger "metalclad" type of double socket - barely a fiver from screwfix - and buy a few plastic "compression" cable glands to both grip and dustproof the points where your cables go through the walls of the switch box and the metalclad socket. These really tidy up the job and by strongly gripping the cable they make your work much more robust.
If you need a box for the switch, one of the pale grey terminal boxes made by Gewiss or Wiska will do. Look at GW44205 or 44206 depending whether you need to put the switch on the lid of the box, or plan to mount the switch through a panel and put a small box behind the panel to protect the wiring from fingers and dust.

 

[Sideways]

Should say i'm doing almost exactly the same thingin order to move the NVR switch from the back of my bandsaw to somewhere more accessible. I chose to buy a new switch rather than modify the original so I can put it back to original condition if I ever sell it on.

 

[Eric The Viking]

The gents who have already replied have put you on the right path, but there is just one little other thing to consider: does your scrollsaw already have an NVR switch fitted to it?

NVR stands for "no volt release" and apart from making it easy to turn off the power, it prevents power coming back on automatically after it has been removed - if the mains is turned off upstream, that "releases" the switch (it turns off). This is, for example, to stop the saw starting up by itself when you plug it in.

There's nothing dangerous in using two of these switches chained together ("in series", the new one you are considering and the one on the saw), but you will need to push the "on" button on both switches to start the saw., every time you switch it off with your new switch or at the mains on the wall. (turning on/off at the saw won't affect your new switch).

It's simple to test the saw's switch before doing your new arrangement: Turn it on so it's running, then off at the wall. Turn it on again, but only at the wall - don't touch the saw itself:

if it re-starts by itself, it isn't fitted with its own NVR switch (just an ordinary one). If it doesn't start by itself, you will have two NVR switches in series, as described above.

E.

 

[evansmike881]

Thanks Again,

I think the plastic "compression" cable glands are a real good idea, will add a more professional touch to the cart also.

In regards to the two NVR switches in series, I do believe my scroll saw does have a NVR Switch, from what I understand from the messages above this means I would have to turn it on at the saw every time anyway even if I used the second NVR switch to turn it off... is that right?

If that is correct, what's the best way to resolve this so I can just use the main NVR switch on the front of the stand without completely wrecking my scroll saw, as I would like to be able to put it back to normal use if I take it off the stand.

Cheers for all your help and advice

Mike

 

[Sideways]

Good catch Eric

I don't have a scroll saw and you don't say which one you have but how about this ...

A quick google images suggests that most scroll saws have a NVR switch and that they are fitted in an easy to access position at the front of the saw. So no point in duplicating.

I completely see the convenience in having a couple of sockets on the front of your toolcart to have a convenient place to plug in other tools. It does no harm to have the sockets on a NVR as this gives you an easy access emergency stop and pushbuttons can be more convenient to use than say the switch on a shop vacuum.
I would have a separate power outlet to plug your scroll saw into though. Make this live all the time and use the saw's own switch to turn it on and off.

To keep everything neat, bring all the cables into the box with the KEDU switch and use three way wago 221 or 222 terminal blocks to split each of the live, neutral and earth wires of the extension cord into two. One set of L&N go to the switch and on to the double socket. The other set of wires connect straight out to the single socket where you'll plug in the scroll saw - maybe at the back of the cart. The earths go straight to all the sockets.
Wago connectors are a more modern alternative to using the old fashioned screw terminal strip ("chocolate block"). You'll get them at screwfix or any place serving the electrical trade. They are super easy to use and re-use.