Shed design advice needed

[ChrisEd112]

Hi all,

I am currently looking into buying a shed for a workshop/motorbik storage, however, the area the shed will be placed has some restrictions in that i wont be able to treat it each year and we will have to put it together and then put it in the place rather than build it in the spot.

The area the Shed will be going into is 11 x 8 ft and the shed is 10 x 6 which doesnt leave much access to the side or back.

i have thought about trying to build the shed on runners or wheels in a way it would be easy to slide in and out to do this but im not sure how it would be done and even if it can be done.

Does anyone have any suggestions if this would be possible and if so how? or any alternatives to help treatment of the wood each year?

Thanks in advance.

 

[MikeG.]

Get around what, precisely?

 

[ChrisEd112]

Hi Mike,

Apologies for any confusion, i have updated my intial post with some additional information in the hopes it will help.

 

[MikeG.]

Why don't you clad it in something that doesn't need any maintenance, and then this issue goes away?

 

[Spragnut]

I've got a workshop that is 35 years old, two sides just had 2 layers of roofing felt, the underlay kind, nailed to the uprights, 90 degrees to each other and overlapped. The ply sheeting underneath was perfect when I took it off to replace it a couple of years ago.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

[SamTheJarvis]

Wide eaves and guttering is particularly effective in reducing wear on cladding. Also Yacht varnish is better than any fence-product like Cuprinol, and removing objects nearby that rain can bounce off of and hit the cladding, like barrels... barbecues... that haven't been used in 6 years... I should really get rid of that barbecue.

 

[Jonathan S]

Sounds like an ideal scenario to use old engine oil.

Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk

 

[MikeG.]

.......Yacht varnish is better than any fence-product like Cuprinol ........

I think there is a debate to be had about that. My understanding is that yacht varnish is indistinguishable from any other type of varnish, other than by its price. And have you seen how often wooden boat owners re-varnish?

 

[RobinBHM]

Clad the non accessible sides with rendaboard - its cheaper than timber cladding.

The important thing is to make the shed like proper timber frame construction with breathable membrane and a cavity.

 

[That would work]

Speaking as an (ex) yacht joiner, I've used quite a lot of the stuff (yacht varnish) I would say similar in as much as it uses the same ingredients. It does tend to be a lot thicker and the gloss is higher. It can definitely be built up more easily. So could be argued is more durable.
Boat owners do make varnishing a life long task it's true but apart from the harsher conditions that yachts spend their time in its also a vanity thing. Freshly varnished teak joinery is a sight to behold! :lol:

 

[That would work]

Back to the maintenance free cladding though... I would use Onduline/coraline.