Sharpening systems (ducking for cover already)

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DiscoStu

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Ok I don't want a fight just some advice.

I've just bought a lathe.

Now I know I need sharp tools.

I am wondering if I should get one of the sharpening systems?

Loads seems to be the same / similar

Record Power, Triton, scheppach, Jet and Tormek.

I am thinking either Triton or Scheppach as they are both reasonably priced and I have other tools from them. So is this sensible?

I don't want to spend a fortune, would I be better off with stones and if so how do you sharpen a gouge!

I'm looking for cheap and easy but gives a decent result but doesn't have to be the finest thing in the world.
 
If you want a sharpening system that's geared for turning then you wont beat the Sorby Proedge for speed, efficiency and all round versatility.

AND...

...although Jacob will advocate the benefits of free handing even he will acknowledge the usefulness of the PE so it has a foot in both camps......can't lose :)
 
I had a cheap ass grinder. one quick wheel one slow water wheel. the original wheels were trash so I bought a tormek stone 120 euro and a "pink poly carbide" I think for 20 euro. they have been working well for me their is ways to build gouge shapening jigs but i bit the bullet and bought a second hand tormek jig for 220 euros and now am pretty well set up.

when I write it down... I still spent way too much money on my lathe sharpening stuff ...... use water stones for regular chisel sharpening.

Regards Richard
 
If you have lots of money to spend - sorby proedge
If you don't have lots of money to spend - white wheel grinder from axminster and shop built/ bought jigs eBay etc
 
The two best options, I'm my opinion, are the Robert Sorby Proedge for us novices. It comes with pre set angles and jigs to help you sharpen the tool correctly every time. I know a lot of more advanced wood turners who hate this system and prefer instead to sharpen free hand on a grinding wheel such as the sharpening systems from Tormek.

I personally use the Proedge.
 
I started out with a 6" grinder with white and then red wheels and was more than happy with the results - but using
a jig for gouges. I inherited a Tormek along with innumerable jigs but after persevering for a couple of years with this, I'm going back to the grinder as for me it is far quicker and easier for the amount of turning I do.
I've no doubt the Sorby PE works well and Jacob's belt sander works for him, but like everything else in this world there are many ways to skin a cat so I'd suggest going with a cheaper option first and seeing how that works for you.
If you are new to turning, sharpening a fingernail gouge without a jig is not easy and for me it was hard enough to learn to turn with a consistent edge on my gouges without throwing in an extra variable.
 
DiscoStu":2msmfwq0 said:
I currently have a Clarke grinder / wet stone grinder. Would this be ok to get me started and if so how do I sharpen gouges etc?

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/prod ... ne-grinder



I changed the wheel because it was cat ! the tormek fits on it but costs a lot 120 euro to get it :( this is my system if it helps
 

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Have a look at the thread in the woodturning section should-i-just-bite-the-bullet-and-get-a-sorby-pro-edge-t89680.html
Whilst it's specifically about the Sorby Pro edge, most viable and cheaper alternatives are discussed.

My own advice would be to avoid the slow wet systems.
Best low cost solution is a bench grinder with a good wheel and some home made jigs to keep it fast, easy, repeatable and cheap.
If you've enough spare cash, go for the Sorby Pro Edge.
 
That's pretty sound advice, especially as Discostu wanted to avoid spending too much. I've had a Tormek for many years but with hindsight I wouldn't get one specifically for turning because of the poor ability to reshape high speed steel. The Tormek does give a very good edge indeed so great for finishing cuts or tricky woods like punky spalted timber to avoid tear out. But when you get that factory edge gouge and you want to grind the wings off or you buy a massive ancient skew at a show and it's dinged to hell...the Tormek takes forever to reshape because it doesn't remove HSS quickly. Both linishers and fast dry grinders perform that function well as long as you're judicious about over heating management.

I'm hearing very good things about CBN wheels too. Apparently they're very fast and cool at removing lots of HSS quickly, require no truing/dressing and last a long time. Right now they're very expensive though. Not tried one myself.
 
bugbear":sr2vzk83 said:
Glynne":sr2vzk83 said:
I've no doubt the Sorby PE works well and Jacob's belt sander works for him...

He flogged his sander and bought a Pro Edge.

BugBear
No I didn't. I thought you read every word BB! Pay more attention.
 
Other than spending £300 odd quid on a Pro Edge, I'm not sure I'm any wiser! Are the Scheppach and Triton systems any good for the £100 price tag or what else should I do for around £100?
 
DiscoStu":1whe6w7b said:
Other than spending £300 odd quid on a Pro Edge, I'm not sure I'm any wiser! Are the Scheppach and Triton systems any good for the £100 price tag or what else should I do for around £100?
If you aren't sure then don't buy anything; stick a sanding disc on the other end of your headstock. It'll do everything more or less and when you get into it you could think again.
 
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