Sharpening for beginners

[Bingy man]

Crazy , insane , madness - how many ways are there to cut a piece of wood at 90deg ??? Handsaws - western snd Japanese, table saw , bandsaw , mitre saw , radial arm saw , track saw , router, circular saw, jig saw etc etc , they will all achieve the end goal of making that cut . Given the type of wood and dimensions however we might prefer one tool over the others and again we might have our own preference and reasons for our choice . As competent wood workers we make our own choices . When a newcomer asks the question “ what tool for this job ?? “. we all reply to the question with the tool or machine that we would use because that’s how we do it . That’s how we all learn and we then pass that method onto anyone else who asks the szme question. Now a lot of methods and techniques have been passed down from previous generations sometimes over hundreds/ or even thousands of years . Trouble is nobody taught me the correct technique to sharpen blades so my freehand method was dog and as such I have no clue or confidence in this method. So I CHOSE to use a jig as I have neither the time or the inclination to learn another method when everyone has their own way of doing it - I get razor sharp edges on all my tools , I sharpen a chisel as soon as I can after I’ve used it , occasionally I might end up with several that need doing so I’m happy to do this . My set up is simple , efficient and more importantly consistent. I don’t have a tormek but I keep my chisels and blade irons in good condition so never have to put them to the grinder unless I hit a nail or hard knot . Think I’ll start a thread on what car or van do you drive and why — actually on 2nd thoughts. …..

 

[thetyreman]

I mostly do it freehand, but with narrow chisels, cabinet scraper blades and spokeshaves I use a honing guide, I think the key to it is actually learning to enjoy the process and if you don't get it just right don't sweat it, just try again, eventually you will get it right, I like to use end grain to test things on because it requires very sharp blades, only a truly razor sharp edge will easily cut end grain and give you ultra thin shavings, you also need to get used to knowing and feeling when the tools need re-sharpening, this is something that cannot be taught easily, it's an intuition thing based on experience.

 

[BC'er]

It's probably been said already, but perhaps the main advantage of the long, single bevel method of sharpening chisels is that the bevel is stable enough by virtue of its size to act as its own guide in effect, when correct pressure is maintained and rocking of the tool and stone is avoided.

The other essential is a truly flat stone and this is easy to maintain with water stones as they are relatively soft and can be lapped against each other or a diamond plate to maintain flatness. I have two of the red Japanese stones and the four faces that provides is one more than the three surfaces required for effective lapping to a true flat. With one of the 8000 grit(?) yellow stones that combination will produce a mirror finish on any steel.

It's debatable I suppose whether the old single-steel chisels are hard enough at the edge to support that long and thin a bevel.

Inaccurate or inconsistent sharpening involves the removal of a lot more metal and generally takes longer as well.

The Makita rotary wet grinder was pretty good, but could make a mess quickly with splash off the stones if not well screened, and lapping the wheels is necessary periodically. Overall rather fiddly to use.

The plane shown is about 9 inches wide.

 

[Peter907]

I just had to post again to give you all a laugh. I said I'd ordered a canvas roll bag to put my now super sharp chisels in. Well it came and I've put them all in. Only when I went to roll it up did I realise that two of them had gone straight through the back of the canvas like it was butter . Result!!!

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

Get out the gaffa tape
On a serious note. Wood turning, I had to learn the feel of the tools and when to stop and sharpen.

 

[Jacob]

........Now a lot of methods and techniques have been passed down from previous generations sometimes over hundreds/ or even thousands of years . Trouble is nobody taught me the correct technique to sharpen blades so my freehand method was dog ........

I'm not after "correctness", I'm lazy and just looking for easiest.
I'm fairly confident that easiest and with least kit is going to be "traditional" in that trad work in general is as simple and practical as possible.
Also old tools seem to turn up with rounded bevels as per above, just as often as showing a rough ground bevel where the user had access to a wheel.
Just been making marmalade! Massive amount of slicing orange peel involved, which means having a sharp knife.
Slice a bit followed by a few strokes of the steel. Slice a bit more and a few more strokes. Slowly the knife gets sharper, which is good because it means it will probably get sharper still if I just keep repeating the operation, a little and often.
Also it's a little leisurely break, as it should be with sharpening woodwork tools.
So by the end of an hours slicing it's going really well and the knife is sharper than it's ever been since this time last year!
Similarly, at end of a woodwork session your tools should be just as sharp as they were at the start, if not better!
Useful marmalade tip - avoid chopping, gently slice using whole length of blade so you are getting the benefit of all your sharpening. It's quicker, neater and easier.

 

[Fred48]

I just had to post again to give you all a laugh. I said I'd ordered a canvas roll bag to put my now super sharp chisels in. Well it came and I've put them all in. Only when I went to roll it up did I realise that two of them had gone straight through the back of the canvas like it was butter . Result

 

[Bingy man]

'm not after "correctness", I'm lazy and just looking for easiest.
That’s kind of my point - @Jacob im the same but the traditional method did not work for me - I guarantee if years ago we were neighbours and I’d said I can’t sharpen my chisels correctly you would of shown me how enough times for me to get it but alas I’m self taught and I’ve only ever achieved a sharp chisel using jigs . I keep them sharp most times but as said time and other things can get in the way -but sit in front of the tv with my table , chisels and a good coffee and off we go a few mins to get the edge back and a couple more grades to refine the edge and all done ..oh btw I do use a steel for my knives .
Edit I’m not sure how you do this quote thingy but not to worry

 

[Amplidyne]

I just had to post again to give you all a laugh. I said I'd ordered a canvas roll bag to put my now super sharp chisels in. Well it came and I've put them all in. Only when I went to roll it up did I realise that two of them had gone straight through the back of the canvas like it was butter . Result!!!

Well it's one way to check the sharpness I suppose. . .

 

[AJBaker]

'm not after "correctness", I'm lazy and just looking for easiest.
That’s kind of my point - @Jacob im the same but the traditional method did not work for me - I guarantee if years ago we were neighbours and I’d said I can’t sharpen my chisels correctly you would of shown me how enough times for me to get it but alas I’m self taught and I’ve only ever achieved a sharp chisel using jigs . I keep them sharp most times but as said time and other things can get in the way -but sit in front of the tv with my table , chisels and a good coffee and off we go a few mins to get the edge back and a couple more grades to refine the edge and all done ..oh btw I do use a steel for my knives .
Edit I’m not sure how you do this quote thingy but not to worry

Nothing wrong with that, I can sharpen freehand and I still often use a jig. I like how consistent and repeatable the result is.

If you want to give freehand sharpening a go again someday, it's one of those things that is surprisingly simple once you get a feel for it:
Hold the chisel at about the same angle as the jig (about 30°). Slide the chisel forwards on the stone, and as you do so, gradually drop your hand until the chisel is at about 20° by the time you get to the end of the stone. The beginning of the stroke raises a burr on the edge, and the end of the stroke makes clearance on the bevel. Repeat a few times on a rough, then a fine stone, and strop at the end. From time to time I then use a jig to flatten the bevel and get the edge back to square in case it has drifted a bit.

 

[Bumble]

I sighed at your description of how your hard work hasn’t brought forth an edge. Not your fault at all! It’s the pundits of these ridiculous stones in their thousands of grit.
For hundreds of years and as is still the case the people who have made all the furniture you see only ever sharpened to about 400 on a combination stone, maybe if they needed to they would strop a bit as well. As a commercial bespoke furniture maker that’s all I have ever done, and @Jacob and @Amplidyne say the same.

It really is quite simple and inexpensive, a Norton India combination stone will cost about £40? Plus a little thin oil. Put the sloping edge of the blade on the oiled stone and then lift it a fraction till the oil squeezes out then rub up and down at that same angle with medium downward force, after 10? rubs up and down feel the back edge and you should feel a roughness at the edge, this is the wire edge, to remove that put the back of the blade flat onto the stone and rub up and down just a few time with pressure keeping the blade flat on the stone, the wire will either have dropped off or is ready to, once it has gone that’s about it, I then have a habit of stropping it on my jeans but probably not needed tbh.
We are only cutting wood. It’s not Rocket science and as I’ve described will be quite sharp enough.
A picture to prove my point and credentials.

View attachment 195820

Cabinetman, that is a stunning piece.
Woodworking is a second innings for me and likely I will only get about fifteen or twenty years at the crease. If during that time I manage to produce just one piece that is a beautiful as that, I will head back to the pavilion with my head held high. It is inspiring.

I apologize for the brief interruption to the conversation.

 

[Cabinetman]

Cabinetman, that is a stunning piece.
Woodworking is a second innings for me and likely I will only get about fifteen or twenty years at the crease. If during that time I manage to produce just one piece that is a beautiful as that, I will head back to the pavilion with my head held high. It is inspiring.

I apologize for the brief interruption to the conversation.

I am quite red in the face from your lovely complimentary message, thank you so much.
Must say it is one of my favourite pieces, it was for a Weslian chapel with its use changed to a visitor centre, hence the gothic arches, the design came in a couple of minutes- the model in bent wire took another ten and it was back to the client for approval the same afternoon.
That has made my year !
Ian

 

[joshvegas]

I fall in the lazy camp.

I distinctly remember being 16 or so and using my dads eclipse guide (he's a "wait until it can't cut jelly" wood butcher, so largely unused). It became apparent to me that i would not be sharpening if i had to faff about so much so i better learn how to do it on the fly.

It did however show me what sharp was. And it still gets used for short things or skinny things.

The other significant thing i think really made a difference was workingout how to "lock" the angle in. That was a game changer. If i just "hold it" at 30°ish its going to be a riot after one stroke. But if i hold the handle or iron end firmly at the angle then push down firmly with the palm of my hand the resistance against each hand keeps it consistent... Enough.

Works for me, anyway.

 

[Jacob]

I fall in the lazy camp.

....

The lazy camp is also the traditional camp IMHO: in the heydays of hand tool use workers were under productivity pressure and with the accumulated knowledge (the traditions) would always go for easiest, quickest, most effective, cheapest.
Where the "correct" camp came from is another issue altogether. I think it kicked off slowly with the boom in hobby woodwork post WW2. Lots of newcomers were looking for accessible and reliable alternatives to trad practices and writing about their brilliant ideas in the mags. It hotted up in the 1980s in my experience - everybody was suddenly buying jigs, other kit and looking at charts of grit sizes etc.
This got taken up by dodgy gurus who invented the dogma of correctness and the terminology which came along with it, "correct" itself with specific "correct" angles and other previously unheard of terms such as "micro" bevel, "primary / secondary" bevels, "correct" grit sizes, then the obsession with (optical!) flatness, polish etc, then the variations of jigs and gadgets, encrusted with shiny brass knobs, each one more expensive and useless than the one before.
And a whole cult/dogma/industry, evolved!
Luckily you can avoid it almost entirely if you just want to get on with some woodwork.
If struggling with sharpening you almost certainly don't need to buy another bit of kit, you just need to get back to basics.

 

[Steve H01]

The other essential is a truly flat stone and this is easy to maintain with water stones as they are relatively soft and can be lapped against each other or a diamond plate to maintain flatness. I have two of the red Japanese stones and the four faces that provides is one more than the three surfaces required for effective lapping to a true flat. With one of the 8000 grit(?) yellow stones that combination will produce a mirror finish on any steel.

Jacob's ancient method of working the stone to maintain flattish also works more than well enough.
Reprising the role of nit nurse, your two stones aren't sufficient to achieve optically flat as you need to be able to sequence A against B, B against C, C against A. The odd number of faces allows you to work out mirrored imperfections; instead using the three or four faces of two objects can perpetuate some imperfections. It can certainly be got close enough by intelligent application, but the three face method doesn't need brain input, just have at it. Consider, we wish to flatten A which has a big concavity (we'll call this shaped A AV, B and C are flat (so we'll call these B0 and C0), so our result of one cycle is:
AV vs B0 --> Av and Bx (Slightly concave A, slightly convex B)
Bx vs C0 --> Bteenyx and Cteenyv
Cteenyv vs Av --> C maybe slightly convex and A less concave
rinse and repeat until desired accuracy achieved.
But when Bx can't be used against C0, we can end up with stable complementary non flats unless we actively seek out the highs and lows.

 

[Jacob]

Jacob's ancient method of working the stone to maintain flattish also works more than well enough.
Reprising the role of nit nurse, your two stones aren't sufficient to achieve optically flat as you need to be able to sequence A against B, B against C, C against A. The odd number of faces allows you to work out mirrored imperfections; instead using the three or four faces of two objects can perpetuate some imperfections. It can certainly be got close enough by intelligent application, but the three face method doesn't need brain input, just have at it. Consider, we wish to flatten A which has a big concavity (we'll call this shaped A AV, B and C are flat (so we'll call these B0 and C0), so our result of one cycle is:
AV vs B0 --> Av and Bx (Slightly concave A, slightly convex B)
Bx vs C0 --> Bteenyx and Cteenyv
Cteenyv vs Av --> C maybe slightly convex and A less concave
rinse and repeat until desired accuracy achieved.
But when Bx can't be used against C0, we can end up with stable complementary non flats unless we actively seek out the highs and lows.

Yeah that's it in a nuttershell!
I detect the ghost of Joseph Whitworth somewhere in that text!
PS is there still an obsession with Camellia oil or is that history? Fashions come and go. Personally I'm obsessed by bicycle oil.

 

[Steve H01]

Cripes I've seldom the nouse of an oven ready, um, pea hen. Sure that was supposed to rhyme. Can't deny my stones on the bench have been dishwashed and I use soapy water for touch ups. Think they need more frequent maintenance not using oil, and being a bit craggy having hands as soft as my face doesn't put me in Miss Newmans league... but it's good 'nuff

 

[JSW]

Jacob's ancient method of working the stone to maintain flattish also works more than well enough.
Reprising the role of nit nurse, your two stones aren't sufficient to achieve optically flat as you need to be able to sequence A against B, B against C, C against A. The odd number of faces allows you to work out mirrored imperfections; instead using the three or four faces of two objects can perpetuate some imperfections. It can certainly be got close enough by intelligent application, but the three face method doesn't need brain input, just have at it. Consider, we wish to flatten A which has a big concavity (we'll call this shaped A AV, B and C are flat (so we'll call these B0 and C0), so our result of one cycle is:
AV vs B0 --> Av and Bx (Slightly concave A, slightly convex B)
Bx vs C0 --> Bteenyx and Cteenyv
Cteenyv vs Av --> C maybe slightly convex and A less concave
rinse and repeat until desired accuracy achieved.
But when Bx can't be used against C0, we can end up with stable complementary non flats unless we actively seek out the highs and lows.

FTFY

 

[mark w]

I'm not after "correctness", I'm lazy and just looking for easiest.
I'm fairly confident that easiest and with least kit is going to be "traditional" in that trad work in general is as simple and practical as possible.
Also old tools seem to turn up with rounded bevels as per above, just as often as showing a rough ground bevel where the user had access to a wheel.
Just been making marmalade! Massive amount of slicing orange peel involved, which means having a sharp knife.
Slice a bit followed by a few strokes of the steel. Slice a bit more and a few more strokes. Slowly the knife gets sharper, which is good because it means it will probably get sharper still if I just keep repeating the operation, a little and often.
Also it's a little leisurely break, as it is with sharpening woodwork tools.
So by the end of an hours slicing it's going really well and the knife is sharper than it's ever been since this time last year!
Similarly, at end of a woodwork session your tools should be just as sharp as they were at the start, if not better!
Useful marmalade tip - avoid chopping, gently slice using whole length of blade so you are getting the benefit of your sharpening. It's quicker, neater and easier.

I need some toast now.