setting up RAS

[marcros]

Is there a recommended sequence for setting up/checking a RAS. I have to build a table as part of the setup- but assuming that everything probably needs adjusting, in what order do I do it?

do I zero the blade to the fence, or do I adjust the blade so that it is square when the saw is set at 90 degrees?

 

[marcus]

Normal procedure for me is:

• -Adjust the arm so that the blade travels square to the fence when pulled along the arm.
  -Adjust the 'bevel angle' axis.
  -Finally adjust yoke/motor assembly so that blade face is perpendicular to the fence (ie swivel the yoke until the blade of a square set against the fence is dead flat against the saw-blade).

Hope this is clear!

But before any of it take great pains to get the table aligned correctly to the arm. You should be able to swing the arm from one side of its travel to the other with the blade just kissing the surface.

 

[marcros]

Another related question...

If the arm has a little droop, do I adjust it or shim the table so that the depth of cut remains constant?

 

[marcus]

Is the arm drooping in relation to the column of the saw?

 

[marcros]

Is the arm drooping in relation to the column of the saw?

I am not quite able to check, it was just a thought that on an old saw, gravity may have started to have an effect. When I put a flat table on it, I guess it is easy enough to check.

I think I get the instructions ok. As I look at it in 90 degree cross cut mode, is bevel angle making sure that the blade is vertical?

 

[marcus]

As I look at it in 90 degree cross cut mode, is bevel angle making sure that the blade is vertical?

That's it.

The appearance of a droop is most likely caused by the table not being coplanar if that hasn't been set up properly yet.

 

[katellwood]

what make of RAS are you referring to

I've set up a couple of dewalts and there are three settings you need to consider

1, Is the table parallel to the radial arm (not absolutely essential for crosscutting however essential for housings/tenon shoulders where the cut is not going right through the timber). On dewalts you need to remove the table surface. turn the saw arbor so its pointing down, then wind down the column so the arbor just touches the adjustable table supports. Utilising the movement of the saws column (left and right) and pulling the saw back and forth along the arm you set the table supports so they just touch the arbor. by doing this you guarantee that the table when refixed will then be parallel to the saw blade as it is pulled across the timber and also not in twist or wind

2, This can be a bit of trial and error as you need to get the arm 90 degrees to the fence and the blade parallel or in line with the saws movement along the arm. If you square the blade to the fence and it is not in line with the arm it will create a cut which is wider then the actual blade (it acts in the same way as a wobble saw), in addition you will also get quite bad tear out on one side of the cut as the rear of the blade as it exits the cut will still be removing material. Also ensure that the blade is at 90 degrees to the table

3, Finally but this is optional I route a small groove in the rear fence in line with but above the top of the table, this is done as sawdust and debris can sometimes build up between the timber and the fence when cutting, without this groove you are likely to end up with an inaccurate cut due to the debris holding the timber off the fence, however with this groove the dust/debris is forced into the groove and allows the timber to sit accurately against the fence. Just remember to not let the groove get too full. Also if you are using stops along the fence knock the bottom corner off for the same reason.

I have a manual for setting up a dewalt somewhere If you would like a copy PM me your e-mail and I will put it in a PDF

hope this helps and you get an idea from what I've written

 

[katellwood]

PS I typed this whilst Marcus was making his entries so some may be duplicated

 

[powertools]

Link to manual for DW125 http://jvr33.free.fr/pdf_laser/16_cnc/a ... 0DW125.pdf
As katellwood says but it is a frustrating job that needs to be done in the correct order but worth the effort.

 

[marcros]

it is a dewalt powershop dw125. Thanks for the link. i have seen a couple of manuals, but not that one. I have no reason to expect any major issues- it all looks in good condition, but it is a used saw.

 

[Dangermouse]

Setting up a RAS can drive you MADDDDDDDDDDDDD! #-o :deer (homer) :mrgreen: :? :shock: Good luck

 

[marcros]

that i dont doubt. i am just hoping that once it is done, it will be set until the table needs changing. I dont know how much i will do anything except straight 90 degree cross cuts, although once the table is parallel, and the blade cuts only at its keft width, then it probably isnt a huge task to check that it is back to 90 degrees and vertical after altering it.

there is no point having the saw sat there and not able to use it, even if it does resul in insanity!

 

[marcus]

So long as the table is well made and it's all fitted to something solid then it shouldn't need to be touched again. The other settings need to be done fairly often, but they don't take long.

 

[powertools]

I brought my DW125 new in the 1980's and have had to set it up 3 times,once when it was new and twice when I have moved it to a different workshop.
Last time I did this I reduced the size of the top and fitted the saw in between 2 benches so that the top was level and the front was flush with the benches this way when not in use the saw table forms part of the benches and it seems to take up no space in my small workshop.
I also fitted an Irwin laser guide and that is a massive improvement to the saw.

 

[marcros]

i am thinking of a smallish table, and bearing guided roller stands each size. I was going to go 4'x2', but am thinking now that it might be a bit much, or rather space may be put to better use. At least with the roller stands, i should get the same support as on a bench, and i can use them on the bandsaw, planer, thicknesser or just for stacking wood on, as I require. May even go as small as 2'x2', which is about the size that the factory issue one was (from what i can see).

 

[Jelly]

I'd suggest extending the table and fence at least 1 foot past the end of the saw on the left... you can only safely hold something to the fence by hand if you've got plenty of clearance (or are a lefty and use the right hand to hold and the left hand to control the saw).

 

[marcros]

I'd suggest extending the table and fence at least 1 foot past the end of the saw on the left... you safely hold something to the fence by hand if you've got plenty of clearance, which in turn is a lot quicker and easier.

makes sense. cheers

 

[powertools]

As Jelly says you need to be careful how small you go if you are going to use the saw as a free standing unit.
The orignal table would have been much larger than your 2 x 2 idea although mine is only 2 ft wide it does have the bench each side for supporting the work.
Stands would be ok but if your workshop floor is not perfectly level it would be a pain to adjust them each time you moved them.
Perhaps to save space a small table with drop down leaves each side would be a good solution.

 

[marcros]

looking back at the manual, it does overhang on both sides a fair bit. point taken though, i will go back to 4x2 as a starting point. should give enough room to hold onto pieces on the left (presumably because if right handed, than hand is used to pull the saw?). I like the idea of the drop leaves too. floor isn't too bad, and i need some roller stands anyway.

 

[soulboy]

Hi All, the link to the DW125 manual doesn't seem to be working, has anyone have a working one?
thx chris